7mm On Heather's Workbench - small and perfectly formed

[john lewsey]

I had a look at the Pannier today
Rather nice

 

[Ressaldar]

It seems that a new chassis may be on the cards (or possibly fit hornblocks to the existing chassis - the axles are narrower than the usual 3/16th) for the Sang Cheng 57xx that I have just painted - the wheels are out of quarter and I am told by John Reily that it an almost impossible task to re-align them.

On checking Slater's website for the correct wheel, they show two versions

7855W with a 12" throw and
7855WP with a 10" throw

can somebody 'throw' some light on this please?

Heather - sorry for the high-jack but I thought that this thread would be the most likely to come up with an answer.

cheers

Mike

 

[OzzyO]

Slater's do a number of this size wheel, you have 7855GW 15" in line or you could look at 7855wp (14 spokes) 10" throw, so looking at the book it should be 10" through 14 spokes.

The axles could be 4.5mm Dia. if that is the case just drill them out to suit the normal 3/16" axles.

If you have not touched the wheels and axles why not get in touch with the people that have sold you the loco?

OzzyO.

 

[daifly]

Hi Mike

According to Mike Sharman's 'Wheel Specifications for the Modeller', the 4' 7" x 10" throw is the correct one for the 57xx (and other classes). The 4' 7" x 12" throw is the wheel used on e.g. the 45xx Prairie.

Cheers

Dave

 

[OzzyO]

I'm just rereading this about a S/C model and I'm finding it a bit odd. (not sure why it's in this thread).
It's going to be OK to spend £60+ sorting out a RTR loco, but when a kit is out by less than 0.25mm it gets slated on here. But you can spend the same amount of money on something that should work out of the box but that is OK I don't get that.
We can all do a bit of work on a good kit to make it better, and a RTR item to make it look better, but if you have to put a new set of wheels on it to make it work?

OzzyO.

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi OzzyO,

I am looking at all alternatives to overcome the problem - it arose as a consequence of trying to remove the wheelsets prior to painting the chassis and the centre axle (with motor attached) was the problem in that the wheels are a push fit onto the axle and the wheels turned out of quartering.

I am not decrying RTR or kits if it comes to it, just looking for a way of overcoming a problem that is of my own making - on a Club mates loco, which will need fixing before returning it to him - I'm not doing it out of choice.

Many thanks to you and Dave for the information regarding the throw, I will have another long look at the problem tomorrow.

Once again Heather, apologies for the thread hijack.

regards

Mike

 

[topshed34a]

A very interesting article, I just bought one and someone in London has kindly offered to bring it to Sydney in a few days.
I will be building L94 as I was at Faringdon on the final day.
Here is the photo I took


Last day of Steam on LT July 1971, Taken by me at Farringdon using a Praktica Super TL.

 

[LaScala]

Ticking a few more items off the checklist today, so far.

I have soldered the sandboxes to the footplate. I was considering glue of some kind, but as they are substantial white metal castings, I managed to low-melt them into place without singeing fingers too badly.

Those nasty bunker filling bits were tackled next.

View attachment 30336

The driver's side wasn't bad, but judicious dabs of low melt solder into the cracks, followed up with scraping and some whizzydisc work with a 240 grit sanding disc worked quite well. The rivet detail has been sacrificed, but I am pondering the notion of replacing it with minute drops of PVA after priming.

View attachment 30337

The fireman's side was much worse, and needed a fair amount more solder to plug the unevenness. Again, rivet detail has gone south, and a little work with fine wet'n'dry is still needed, but that's a whole bunch better than it was an hour ago.

Next on my list are the steps on the front of the tanks. Typically, my chosen loco seems to have different steps to other members of the class, so I shall do some intense peering at contemporary images before I decide to go with the apparent current form or the "standard" steps.

At this frustrating point myself.

Having flown with assembly up to this point, the bunker is a PITA. For some reason the fireman's side has eventually gone in OK but the driver's side is proving very hard to line up rivets. May take your route and lose them temporarily.

I had less trouble with the curved section but like you found lower rear sheets too short and top a bit long!

Having said all this, the rest of the kit seems to be very straightforward.