7mm On Heather's Workbench - the answer to life, the universe and…

JimG

Western Thunderer
Heather,

The clatter in reverse direction seems to be in sync with the rotation of the first shaft in the gearbox so I would check for problems in there - like a lump of dirt in a root between teeth on the helical gear or the pinion driving the second shaft. The noise is actually still there in the quiet direction, but at a much lower level. It could be that the first shaft has some horizontal play and the direction of motor rotation moves it slightly one way or the other, and in one way, the problem becomes more apparent. You might experiment with pushing the ends of the first shaft each way when running in the noisy direction to see if the noise varies.

Jim.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Hi Jim.

Thanks for that. I've been through and cleaned all the teeth. The noise is there in both directions now! I've looked at adjusting the angle of the assembly, and it doesn't make a huge difference.

I think I will live with it for now. It's much worse when running on the bench. When on rails, it's less obvious.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Mrs Mojo keeps wandering off. I keep telling her I am supposed to be trying to earn a living at this modelling malarkey, but she will have none of it. For this reason, progress has been fitful this past week or so.

In a fit of madness, though, I did get the brake rigging organised over the weekend.

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I am using my usual trick of 14BA bolts, lengths of brass tube as spacers, and nuts to hold it all in place. The theory is by undoing all the nuts, the hangers and cross shafts can all be prised away, allowing wheels to be dropped if required. That's the theory.

The hangers and shoes are made up of a three deck sandwich of etches. I could have got away with forgetting the back half-etch, but it seemed a shame to do that. What I had was a front, with the characteristic scalloped front, a middle part, and a rear part with some details. Looking at photos of the real thing, it's obvious the outer plates were just that, with the shoes hinged between them. To simulate this I filed away the edges of the middle etch to leave a bit of a recess when assembled.

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Then I faced the rear and rubbing surfaces with black styrene sheet, in an attempt to avoid shorting. The brake hangers literally hang just where the real ones should, and consequently there is little to no gap between shoe and tyre. This was made worse by me adding 20 thou of styrene! After some judicious scraping and fettling, the brakes sat fairly happily with their wheels, so I could fit the cross shafts. In time-honoured fashion these were made of etched plates and wire.

Well, it sort of worked in the end. It will have to do. I really need to work on my brake rigging, because no matter how careful I am, it never seems to sit straight or true.

The connection to the handbrake and vacuum brake under bunker is notional. So far, I have found a way to fit the over-size cylinder so I can still get the bolt in to hold the frames and body together. The way (weigh?) shaft is brass wire, but I have failed to locate suitable components with which to complete the fittings properly.

Moving on, time to trial fit the couplings rods.

The client had substituted third party milled rods, origin unknown. The etched rods were not in the box, and knowing how hard it would be to get replacements from JLTRT, I figured I would have to go with what I had.

I tidied the rods up, polished to outer faces so file marks weren't obvious, and also managed to get the connecting rods attached to the crossheads without too much swearing. So far, so good. Obviously, a 12BA bolt and nut will have to substitute for the castellated nut that holds the real ones, but I'm sure it'll pass muster. I am awaiting some proper crankpin nuts from Scotland, so I can't do the recessed leading nuts yet.

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First problem, though, was the rods clout the brake hanger retaining nuts. A washer shim isn't enough to pull them out, so it looks like I shall have to kill the backs of the rods to thin them.

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Another problem is I will need to carve a chunk out of the back of the cylinder castings to clear the brake hangers at the front. So, as kind of expected, there's going to be all manner of compromise involve in order to get everything to fit together round the front.

I want all this sorted out now so I can clean it all up and paint it before I fit the plunger pickups. It's currently looking like I will run out of puff in this build soon, and I'll need to pick up another one to keep me going. Hang on! Mrs Mojo has wandered off again! Oi! Come back here!
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Again, not a lot to show for a fair amount of doings.

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Brake hangers and rigging installed, wheels mostly rotating without catching. What you can't see is the huge amount of casting behind the slide bars and back of the cylinder which has been removed in order to let the cylinder block sit down with the brakes installed…

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As you can see, it's tight in there. If it could walk it would squeak. Of course, the third party coupling rods needed a good deal of fettling so they wouldn't clump the brake hangers or wheel bosses.

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I took the Proxxon mill to them, or was it the other way round? Anyway, I took a fair slice of material from the backs, which has actually improved their overall appearance. I think some washers will also need to be deployed, but until I get the cast crankpin nut set (a couple of weeks at the Reading show) I can't begin to sort out the crossheads and connecting rods for clearances. I expect a whole world of pain.

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As a final attempt to get the frames nearer the paint stage, and then wiring up stage, I fitted the sandboxes. As you can see, the front set sit inside the frames - something I am pleased about, as I have the drawing to show it, because the instructions implied the boxes sat outside the frames, squeezed in amongs all the slidebars, brakes and so on! Perhaps I read that wrong. Either way, they are in now, along with their rear cousins. Since taking the photo, the wonky one has been set right. Only the cast filler lids to fit, and I think it'll be a quick session in the paint shop.

I realised this build is helpful to me in many ways. First, it lets me understand how this kit goes together, which is handy as I have another 4200 lined up to build from cold at some point. Secondly, it reminds me I need to think about getting suitable non-metal brake hangers and shoes sorted out to save all the mucking about to avoid shorts. Don't say "split axles", because I don't really want to go there, thanks.

If I get some paint on the frames, this build will head for the shelf for a spell until I get the rest of the odd parts I am after. I need a bit a change of scene to referees my palette, as it were.
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Impeccable build quality as usual! And so inventive with solutions to the 'problems' that inevitably crop up when taking on a part built kit. Having not built a steam loco (yet), are plastic / resin brake shoes avaliable from Scotland?
Completely understand the mojo draining away, sometimes I do nothing for such a long time, my wife wonders if we should convert my modelling room in to something more useful :eek:
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Having not built a steam loco (yet), are plastic / resin brake shoes avaliable from Scotland?

Not as yet. It's something I have mentioned to Laurie, so it has probably been considered. The main issue would be the variety of stock to cover their entire range. If I get a chance, I'll have another natter with him at Reading. I shall also pursue other avenues, such as commissioning 3D print and so on.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
How did you manage to mill the entire rear of something as thin as a coupling rod, please?

I have a Proxxon MF70 mill. It's only tiny, and suffers a little with bed movement when moving it across the machine, but it's adequate for this job.

I clamped the rods, which have been profile milled to shape by the supplier (if they come from where I think they do), to a short length of brass strip and to the mill's bed. Then it was a case of running the cutter up and down to take sufficient from the rear between the bosses. The rods were 1.6mm thick to begin with, and are now less than a millimetre on average. I am certainly not an expert, so it was a little hit and miss, and needed some filing to tidy up, but the overall effect was to thin the rods to a more prototypical size, and allow them to clear various obstructions like wheel bosses!

I didn't record what I did, because I know it would probably cause conniptions among one or two fellow Thunderers who are much better at this machine tool stuff than me!
 

Isambarduk

Western Thunderer
I have thinned them Heather's way and I have thinned them both of Locomodels' ways and, with due care, they all work well.

The double-sided tape technique I have also used to hold the complete flat etches of boiler and firebox to mill away all but a trace of the over think 'boiler bands'.

David
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
..............Secondly, it reminds me I need to think about getting suitable non-metal brake hangers and shoes sorted out to save all the mucking about to avoid shorts...............

Heather plastic brake shoes are available from Slater's and Dave Rayner's product from his Off the Rails line are 3D printed, although LNER and GER pattern they could be suitable if fitted to the metal hangers.

Col.
 

S-Club-7

Western Thunderer
Where can one find details of the above range, please? I Googled Dave Rayner, Off the rails, and both together, but got nothing.
The full range of parts is available from my Shapeways shop at www.Shapeways.com/shops/otr

The GER brake block sprue (containing 2 different designs) looks like this:
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and are also available as a multi-pack.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I'll bear those in mind when I get asked to build a GE type. Sadly, they're not quite right for the GW stuff I'm currently working on. Oddly, neither is the Slater's stuff, unless I'm missing something.
 
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