7mm On Heather's Workbench - wider and longer

Discussion in 'WR Action' started by Heather Kay, 19 January 2016.

  1. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

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    Right, that lot can dry for a day or two before I think about them again.
     
  2. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

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    Not a lot has changed. Well, I’ve painted the sides of the clerestories and blooped some off-white/greyishness on the roofs.

    Has anyone got a reliable method I can use to mark the centres of the trivet bases for drilling?
     
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  3. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

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    I have assumed all the below-gutter areas were chocolate brown. I undercoated with matt black, then brushed the brown on. There are areas that will require retouching with the greyish-whiteish gloopiness as I add weathering.
     
    Rob Pulham, 7mmMick and Lightman like this.
  4. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

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    Will it never end‽
     
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  5. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

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    Clerestory vent castings have been fitted. Which eejit thought they’d be clever and glue the lamps on before doing the vents? Oh, yes, I remember…
     
    Len Cattley, jonte, Lightman and 2 others like this.
  6. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

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    Weathering - too much?

    I’ve looked through as many photos of the period as I have access to. They show extremes, either fresh from the works with a white lead finish, or pretty grubby all over. I started by attempting a gentle dry-brushing of a dark grey, but ended up with the upper of the two. What do we think? Shall I repaint a lighter colour and try again, or does it look about right for a roof exposed to a sulphurous Victorian atmosphere?
     
    Rob Pulham, unklian and gazman424 like this.
  7. geoff_nicholls

    geoff_nicholls Western Thunderer

    I don't suppose you've had a commision to build something wider longer and earlier by any chance? I would find posts on building early six wheeled carriages, and tilt wagons very useful.
     
  8. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

    I’m afraid not. Everything so far has been 1875 and up to the end of the BG.

    Meanwhile, in for a penny…

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    I broke out the airbrush for the other three roofs. You can tell which roof was dry brushed, and I hope - fingers crossed - I can blend things later for a more consistent finish. Failing that, I guess it’ll be an overall dose of primer and start again.
     
  9. Yorkshire Dave

    Yorkshire Dave Western Thunderer

    As the other three have been airbrushed I would just lightly airbrush the grubbier roof to blend it in a bit but keep the variation. Especially as you've alluded to the fact there are extremes of finishes.
     
    Alan likes this.
  10. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

    I’ve already tried that, as the centre section was airbrushed. I could dry brush the others a little. Hmm.

    I think I’ll sleep on it and see how I feel about things tomorrow. I really want all four roofs to be similar, as the vehicles would probably have been run as a set most of the time. There’s still the "prime and start over" option. It doesn’t really worry me if that’s what I have to do.
     
  11. Les Golledge

    Les Golledge Active Member

    Hi Heather,

    If the triet base is round one method of marking the centres is by taking a piece of bar (round or square) and drilling a hole about 1mm diameter down its length, then open out in stages to the outside diameter of the trivet to a depth of ahout 1-1.5mm the end can be angled to suit the roof slope. the bar
    only needs to be 10-20 mm long as you need to hold it. To use place the larger hole over the trivet base & hold in position, then a 1mm drill in a pin chuck is inserted in the small hole & rotated a few times to mark the centre with a dimple or if you wish drill right into the base as deeply as required. If a piece of square or flat bar is used and drilled crosswise then it would form an integral handle. Before I retired we had a set of similar guides to drill a hole in the centre of broken studs so that a fluted rod could be hammerred in to enable the broken stud to be removed. Drilling the holes was easy & accurate, I always found it difficult to unscrew the broken studs.
    I hope this helps to inspire you to make and use a tool to guide you.
    Best wishes,

    Les
     
  12. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

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    Sometimes it pays to let a model sit and fester. I’d been worrying about the thin edges to the brass roofs. The answer would have been to solder scrap etch along the edges before all the other work. Instead, I’ve used Evergreen strip. It will help to hide the inevitable daylight these roofs seem to suffer from. I’ll let the adhesive set properly, and when I get back from the osteopath I’ll tackle painting some more.
     
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