Paint supplies

[Eastsidepilot]

I'm after help with finding a cellulose paint match for North British Railway locomotive olive or bronze green as it's sometimes called.
B.S or RAL numbers would be great if anyone has knowledge of these.
I know that Precision Paints list this colour but it is enamel and this is no good for lining on.

Any help much appreciated

Col.

 

[krimson]

Hello Colin,
I believe that Peter Mullin of 62c Models stocks NBR green cellulose paint.
Hope this helps,
Regards K.

 

[Eastsidepilot]

Krimson,

Thanks, I had already contacted Peter Mullin but unfortunately he cannot post paint tins through the post and seeing that we are some 400 miles apart it's a long way to go for collection, ....

Col.

 

[Osgood]

Paint. Dangerous stuff that. I know a bloke near Corby who has an ex CEGB/BNFL Scammell Highwayman tractor unit and Crane Nuclear Flask drawbar low loader - he might be prepared to have a run out for you.

Photo courtesy NRM.

There seems to be quite a variation in the way couriers and delivery companies treat hazardous goods. Some operate a blanket ban yet others are happy to deliver paint and other things like acid. I get batteries and acid packs from Lincon in Essex, so you should find a courier able to do it (well cheaper than fuel to collect!).

 

[Eastsidepilot]

That look's like Southminster, Tony.

Col.

 

[richard carr]

Col

He can't send them in the post but he can send them by courier, not cheap but if there is no alternative its better than none.

Richard

 

[Ian Rathbone]

Why can't you line on enamel?

Ian R

 

[Osgood]

I just checked on NRM site, and you're right Colin! Southminster September 1961. The flasks were hauled from Bradwell to here for loading, then by rail wagon to Windscale.

 

[Eastsidepilot]

Why can't you line on enamel?

Ian R

Hi Ian,
I have always assumed I'd have trouble cleaning/tidying up the lining with thinners(white spirit) as it's the same spirit base as the base paint ?
Any advice gratefully received

Col.

 

[adrian]

Hi Ian,
I have always assumed I'd have trouble cleaning/tidying up the lining with thinners(white spirit) as it's the same spirit base as the base paint ?
Any advice gratefully received

Try it on a test piece - you might be surprised. Once enamel paint has hardened, not just dry but fully hardened after a week or so then it is pretty impervious.

That was one of Bob Moore's party tricks - he had a plate painted with enamel paint (Cherrys!) and he'd demo the lining pen. Once the demo was finished he's wipe all the lining off using lighter fuel as a solvent. Just to demonstrate how hard wearing the enamel was he'd also use celllulose thinners to remove the lining and even that didn't attack or react with the enamel. But try it on a test piece first - I don't want to be responsible if it goes wrong!!

 

[mickoo]

I think most paints once the solvent has fully evaporated are quite hardy if you just want to get in and out with touching up, but obviously won't sustain prolonged periods of solvent abuse or immersion I suspect.

If you leave the lining to harden like the base coat then it'll be quite difficult to remove without damaging the lower base colour.

 

[Ian Rathbone]

Cellulose and acrylic paints harden by evaporation of the thinners. Enamel paint hardens by oxidation of the oils in it so, once it's cured, white spirit won't touch it. Once you've sprayed the main body colour, let it dry and then put on the secondary colour(s) the main body paint should have cured sufficiently to start lining. I allow two days min.

On my web site in the 'Other scales' gallery there is an S scale NBR 0-6-0T painted in enamel paint (apart from an etching primer). The customer provided the paint which was Precision M131 Olive Drab. Precision P676 NBR Loco Olive appears to be the border colour, not the body colour.

Ian R

 

[Eastsidepilot]

Guy's
Thanks for the advice, I feel happier about using enamel now. I've always used celly or acrylic for for main body paint.

Col.

 

[Eastsidepilot]

Cellulose and acrylic paints harden by evaporation of the thinners. Enamel paint hardens by oxidation of the oils in it so, once it's cured, white spirit won't touch it. Once you've sprayed the main body colour, let it dry and then put on the secondary colour(s) the main body paint should have cured sufficiently to start lining. I allow two days min.

On my web site in the 'Other scales' gallery there is an S scale NBR 0-6-0T painted in enamel paint (apart from an etching primer). The customer provided the paint which was Precision M131 Olive Drab. Precision P676 NBR Loco Olive appears to be the border colour, not the body colour.

Ian R

Thanks Ian appreciate the help, I take it you made your own transfer lining for NBR boiler bands ? I don't know of any on the market.

Col.

 

[ScottW]

On my web site in the 'Other scales' gallery there is an S scale NBR 0-6-0T painted in enamel paint (apart from an etching primer). The customer provided the paint which was Precision M131 Olive Drab. Precision P676 NBR Loco Olive appears to be the border colour, not the body colour.

Here is the said locomotive.



The colour of NBR locomotives has been widely debated with no definitive conclusion. The colours chosen for this particular model was my own version of the Holmes livery. There is a train of thought that the shade of NBR goods locomotives changed a number of times when Holmes was in office but these changes may have been due by the effects of time and sunlight on the paint and varnish.

I am assuming Colin is looking to paint his North British Atlantic, in which case I would be inclined to paint it a dark olive-brown colour similar to these early Marklin models.

Scott