7mm Parkers sidings

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Hi Brian

Sorry - I never thought to add a picture earlier! This is what I was driving at when I mentioned the arch might not support its own weight....
It was fine before you changed your mind and chopped the extremities off, but as it is now, it’s no longer supported by the abutments and could (again, if it was real bridge), end up as a pile of rubble below.... I like the extra buttress though, as it adds a bit more interest to the structure. Keep up the good work. :thumbs:


Regards

Dan

Your quite right,the arch would just slide out...!!
That`s easy enough (scratching head) to put right,also give me an excuse to re-do the headers in the arch too.

Cheers, Dan.
Brian.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Following on from yesterday, i`ve now re-built the arch;which was a pain in the backside to put it politley,but worth it in the end....

Also,you just don`t realise how well 'Humbrol liquid poly' welds plasticard together,till you try and seperate it!....:rant:
bridge #6.jpg
Anyhow with the arch back in place, i don`t think it needs the extra buttress,so i`m going to leave it alone now and try and get it into primer at some point this week.

Brian.
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
Spreading of the arch imparts sideways thrust on the pillar so I miss the buttress you removed. If however the arch was replaced by a simple girder or a half-round arch then all the thrust would be downwards. You might still need the buttress though.
WEB Abergele station 1.jpg
 
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Brian T

Western Thunderer
Definitely worth it - looks good. :thumbs:

Many thanks Dave,

Though i did have doubt`s when i started to carve into the plasticard and holes started to appear....:eek:

Spreading of the arch imparts sideways thrust on the pillar so I miss the buttress you removed. If however the arch was replaced by a simple girder or a half-round arch then all the thrust would be downwards. You might still need the buttress though.
View attachment 114739

Thanks for the picture Larry,

As to converting the arch to a girder ....err, in the nicest possible way ....nooo! :D I could`nt face ripping it appart again,and plus i`ve got a smaller girder bridge for the other side to build as well.
So i think that i`ll put the buttress back again.

Cheers,
Brian.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
I understand. But you will need these I should think in order to transfer the weight vertically...

Ahh yes,i will need those indeed.

I feel a bit of numpty to be honest..i`ve got L.V.Wood`s book, 'Bridges for Modellers' sat here,and have never really read through it properly.
If i had,i`d have see the obvious things,(especially the things that have been pointed out to me) as it`s loaded with drawings and pictures!.

Thanks again Larry.

Brian.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Even that “skewback abutment” will have side thrust. The arch in Larry’s photo above is a better bet, but even so, it would need some weight in the pillars to prevent it spreading.

Alternatively, if there’s space, tension rods spanning the arch, could have been used.

I’m a Mech Engineer. We need a Civil...

Atb
Simon

PS - link : Arch Bridges See the first & second picture
 
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Brian T

Western Thunderer
Never thought of tension rod`s,but it`s quite tight under the arch so i could`nt get away with that one.

Thanks for the link Simon,even i can understand the principles there!.

I`m tending to think that because in our model world where we don`t have the same amount of space,were going to have to compromise at some point and this would be the case here, as i`m sure that a single span would have been used instead of my 'flight of fancy',which is more to create interest and some form of limited view block.

So i think that if i can make it plusible,even though it would be inpractical in the real world, then i`ll take that!.

Cheers,
Brian.
 

Kylestrome

Active Member
"Bridges For Modellers", page 19 figure 11 gives you all the info you need including the "skew back" mentioned by Larry. You only need to do a few extra details as overlays.

Nice modelling, btw.
David
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Well carrying on from the advice of the past few days i`ve made the atlerations/additions suggested to the arch now,so hopfully this should pass muster....
And I have also started work on the extra buttress too,just needs the capping stone adding (after suitable alterations) and the stringer courses continuing round the buttress itself.
bridge #7.jpg


"Bridges For Modellers", page 19 figure 11 gives you all the info you need including the "skew back" mentioned by Larry. You only need to do a few extra details as overlays.

Nice modelling, btw.
David

Thanks for the heads up David,though i did sit down last night and had a proper read of the book,and came across the drawing you mention.


Cheers,
Brian.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Have`nt really done too much the past few weeks,down to the fact that i`ve been a bit frazzled after work.
But things are slowly moving on....
So here are two updates for the price of one.!

#1
So,with the main bridge construction finished,(apart from the road itself) i thought i take a shot of it in place...

bridge in situ.jpg

And next in grey primer.

bridge primed.jpg
I have to admit i`m quite pleased how it`s turned out so far,especially so after fellow WT`ers chipped in with help and pointers during the building.
The next step is going to be colouring the bridge with enamels and soft pencil crayons,with a technique borowed from a friend of a friend....;)

This i`ll do as a seperate post,at a later date....

#2

So the next structure on the list was 'Parkers' office,which is the coal office from the Intentio models range.
Originally i was going to build the coal office myself,but after seeing a couple of pictures of the finished model and plus the fact you can choose any name you want for it,i decided why not!.
So went it arrived i was pleasently supprised by the content`s of the box,because to be quite honest i was`nt too sure as to what i was getting for the money.

The content`s.

coal office #1.jpg

It`s all very nicely done and fit`s together like a glove,and even though there are no instructions as such,it is fairly straight forward to work out what goes where.

build photos here:Enginemans Hut & Coal Office

But having said that i did come a cross a slight glitch when building the roof section.Whilst it was`nt a big problem it did give me a little head ache,because the build pic`s in the above link show the roof being built as one and then being added to the main building,which you can`t do because of the angles of the pegs on the end walls in relation to the roof section when being fitted.
Anyhow,no biggey as i say,as i just took it apart again and re-built it in situ on the walls.

coal office #2.jpg
I also mentioned that i was going to add a few 'extra' touches to this also,one being the angled window sills. (as above)
I shall also add a full interior,with lighting,and kitted out with some furniture,but more specifically some chairs & an office filing cabinet from seven models:
O Gauge / 7mm to 1 foot

These you`ll be able to see through the door which will also be open.

At the moment the basic interior is done,consisting of a full depth chimney breast and suround, along with chair rails and skirting boards,all of which is now primed apart from the floor,which will be stained later.

coal office #4.jpg

And finally an exterior pic of the front,showing the slighty disstresed roof ties and the name board,which has been shortened in length.

coal office #3.jpg
There`s still a way`s to go,but hopfully you`ll get the idea as what i`m going for in these few pic`s..:D

Cheers,
Brian.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Brian that bridge is superb, and Parker's office is going to sit very nicely with it, such lovely neat modelling.
Geoff

Thank you Geoff for the compliment,much appreciated.

Though if you look carefully at the last picture that i posted,your notice that the third and fourth row of slates are gapped the same......:headbang:
So till i sort it out this is on hold for the moment!.

Of course i did`nt notice this till i`d posted the picture,and it seem`s that no one else has either yet......:D

Brian.
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Hi Brian , your quote by Athur Conan Doyle says it all but remember ,the fault may be obvious to you but not to anyone else . A bit like the boo boo that i made when building the new kitchen . It screams at me but no one else has spotted it .
Cheers Paul
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Hi Paul,

Thanks, and i complteley get where your coming from.

If the mistake had of been on the rear half of the roof,i might have been able to let it go.But like most mistakes that i`ve made,once i know it`s there,it becomes like the provebial stone in the shoe!.

Brian.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
One final post for this year,though it`s not much to be honest....

I`ve been able to fix my mistake on the office roof thanks to a good friend sending me some replacement ties,so that`s all ready now for colouring,but in the meantime i decided to make up some furniture for the interior too from the severn models range of etches,along with a crude,but passible table also.

interior #1.jpg
The recomended way of assembling the brass etches is with glues,but being slightly bereft of sanity i thought it`d be a good idea to solder them up instead...:D

Anyhow a couple of burnt fingers later,i ended up with the above bit`s and bob`s for the office.For the most part it was`nt that bad,it was just the small size of the chair`s that gave me a copuple of problem`s;mainly because they have nine parts, (only used eight though) plus i could`nt find my ceramic peg board,which would have made holding the small items whilst soldering a lot easier,hence the burnt finger`s!.

The only things that were`nt soldered up by the way,were the books and the two file boxes on the table.Those are just folded up.

So with that, i wish all WT`ers a productive and happy new year.

Brian.
 
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