7mm Parkers sidings

Brian T

Western Thunderer
That is excellent! Especially the open drawer of the filing cabinet and the box next to it!

Can't wait to see it painted!

Matt

Thanks Matt,

As for the filing cabinet,i`ve pretty much followed how Severn models have made theirs.

And as to paint, i can`t wait either..:D

Brian.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Can't wait to see it painted!
Matt

Your wish is my command Matt....:)

Decided to have a play with the paint`s this afternoon after work,so give the furniture a coat of primer first..

I should also point out that there should be handles located in the long rectangles in the draw front`s,but there that fiddley i`ve left them off,plus you probably won`t be able to see them properly anyway once it`s all inside..!

furniture #1.jpg

So paint;nothing out of the ordinary here, just a mixture of AK interactive wood satin`s...for the proper wood,and various other colours and stain`s from Humbrol and Taymiya ranges.
I`ve also added some reduced newspaper`s as substitue paper work too.
office interior #1.jpg


And to round things off.....

through the door.jpg

.....this`ll be the view through the door once the rest of the interior is finished.

Brian.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
With a working ceiling or desk lamp! Let the lunacy continue :) .....

Well.....

I do have some lamp shades from 'Tichy Trains' (part #2005) of which i`ll add one to the inside for a celling light;though i have`nt picked up any bulbs yet.Think i might add a 12v grain of wheat type,powered via a 9v battery.
That is if i can find one small enough!.

Great link, Jane Harrop doll’s house miniatures kits You`ve also solved my bog problem...!!
Thats to say i `m going to add a courrigated lean-to for the outside toilet, so that`ll do nicley Dave,thanks.

Brian.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Update time ......:)

Have finally made a start on the painting of the brick work/woodwork.

As mentioned earlier on i was going to use a technique involving enamels and soft coloured pencils.But after applying the first base coat of enamel paint`s, it quickly became obvious that this was`nt going to work on laser cut wood because the mortar courses are too deeply cut.
So i`ve reverted to using paints and pigment powders for this building....

base colour #1.jpg

So this pic shows what was the base coat for soft pencil technique, (top pic) and then subsqently painted over with a couple of light coat`s of Humbrol #100, (red/brown-matt) then followed by a coat of Humbrol #70. (brick red-matt)
Once dry, i dry brush some matt black on in a random fashion,followed by a very diluted coat of matt black/thinners.(white spirit)
This last coat, is what gives the mortar course`s some definition (see pics`s below)

Unfortunatly i did`nt take any more pic`s as i progressed as the batteries ran out in the camera,but hopfully you`ll get the idea from the following pic`s and explanation!.

So after the thinned black coat was dry,i went back over the walls picking out bricks with three various browns.Humbrol #`s 70-100-186.
And at this time i also painted the window sill`s and lintel`s with some aged concerete,from Polly scale.This is a US brand of Acrylic paint,which was to hand,so i used it!.
Again, i then gave the whole structure another wash of dilluted matt black paint,but this time i wiped the majority of it off whilst it was still drying.
This has the effect of giving the building that slightly grubby aged look that seem`s to affect industrial type buildings.
Once all this had dried,i gave it a coat of Testors Dulcote to seal the surfaces.
And lastly, for a bit of variation,with my finger i`ve rubbed some grey/white pigment powder (light dust,from MIG) into the mortar course`s in no particular pattern.
This does create quite a bit of dust on the surface as your doing it,but with a wet finger it you can remove it leaving behind a nice random pattern.
This is also one reason for sealing the brick work first,because if it you used the powders then sealed it you`d lose most of the effect;and powder!,plus doing it after give`s the powder a nice key to grab on too.

#1.jpg
#2.jpg

And so to the woodwork.

Nothing fancy here,just a base coat of grey Halfords primer,followed by white ink for the recessed part of the window frames,and then followed by a coat of 'Reading' (railroad) green from Polly scale again.
All of which suitably abused with some P600 wet'n'dry paper,in dry form to give the woodwork that aged/faded look.
The door got the same treatment as above,but i also gave it a quick coat of diluted matt black too,just to bring out the panels slighty better.
faded.jpg

Once it was dry,it seemed only right that a test fit was done....

#4.jpg
#3.jpg
There`s still a few thing`s to do, like weather the chimney pot and add a little more colour to the slates,which by the way were painted with Humbrol #31. (slate grey)
Then it`ll be detail work like guttering and such.

So for now...

Thanks for looking,

Brian.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
"Like" is such an inadequate response button.... :rolleyes: :oops: ;)

One of those box files needs to have a micro-layout built in it....
:drool::D

Appologies Jordan......

It seem`s that i had`nt noticed, that a piece of paper had inadvertently fell in and covered the box file micro layout (on filing cabinet) before i took the pictures....honest...!! :oops: ;)

Brian.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
I think it`s about time that i called the interior finished......

finished interior.jpg

So compared to the first picture that i posted, i`ve given the walls that you can see, a thin coat of filler to hide the gap`s and the horizontal lines that could be seen in the mdf.
I did`nt take too much care here to get them flat,as i want that old 'rustic' plaster look,to which i gave them a couple of coat`s of mat white paint,followed by a wash of 'Sepia' from the Vallejo game colour set for fantasy figures,to give them that yellow/brown staining colour that was so common from cigarette smoke.

I`ve also added a clock and map of the uk along with the customary pin up calender too,all found on tinternet and printed on plain paper.

Finally fhe fire place was filled with some kindling,along with a bucket from Minerva models complete with some coal.
I could have added a few more bit`s and bob`s,but where do you stop....especially as you won`t see it all in one go again once the roof goes on.

Lighting wise, i was going to use some very small LED`s but there just not right,as they looked more like flouresent lighting.So i`ve gone with a 12v grain of wheat bulb,which i`ve/will hook up to a 9v battery to it give a nice warm glow.......

light test.jpg

Brian.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Well i had a very productive afternoon today,so much so that i`ve now finished the building .....:)

One of the jobs that i still had to do was the guttering; an easy job i thought...humm,only took most of the afternoon to do!.
So with all the parts to hand i set about grinding down some 3mm brass tube for the gutter,to which i soldered some fine wire for the brakets and a small piece of 2mm tube for the down pipe to fit too.
As to the down pipe,that`s fitted out with brackets, elbow and a down spout shoe from Modelu,all of which are in the following pic,

guttering parts.jpg

After being happy with the test fitting,i went on to giving them a coat of grey primer,followed by a black.
Then when all was dry,they were fitted to the building and given a mixed coat of rust colours,followed by a dry brushing of the 'Reading' railroad green that has been used on the woodwork.

So now for a 360 in pictures!

#5.jpg

#6.jpg

7.jpg

#8.jpg

One thing you`ll have probably noticed is,there is no sign on top of the building as per the kit....
This is because,the more i looked at it the more i was`nt happy with how it would look with the sign on roof.So i`m going to prop the sign up against a wall next to the building as though it`s been taken down some time ago,when the use of the yard changes.

But for now,i`m quite happy with the building,so i shall leave you with one last picture for now...

finished.jpg

Cheers,
Brian.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
With the coal office pretty much done now,i`ve turned my attention to the road bridge that i`d built earlier.
Now for this one i have used paint and soft pencil crayons from the 'Caron d'Ache' range,to colour the bridge with.

So to start with i`ve given the whole thing a coat of light grey, mixing in white and black (mat paint`s) whilst it`s still wet.
At this stage,it look`s more like it ready to set sail in a second world war Atlantic convoy,rather than a bridge..... :eek:

base coat.jpg




So after allowing to dry over night,i then gave it a light sanding with some 1500 grit wet & dry paper (in the wet state) to provide a key for the crayons.
As mentioned there from the Crayon d'Ache range,primarily an English red for the main body of colour,with a Burnt Siena and a Russett to add variation in the colours.

Bridge colour #1.jpg
So this is where we are at the moment after giving the stone work a coat of roof slate gray.
There`s still a bit of work to do,like painting the girder and then adding washes & weathering, but.....i`m not completely convinced/taken with the look ,as i think the colour look`s a bit too patchy.
So do we carry on, or stop and completley re-paint it in the same manner as the coal office...

What do poeple think?.

Brian.
 
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Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
as i think the colour look`s a bit too patchy.

I usually start a brick building with an overall brick colour then introduce brick colour variations as you've done with the pencils. If want brick patches then I make sure they follow mortar lines.

It's generally soot and water stains which create patches that cross rather than follow mortar lines. This is what did on my one on my buildings.

Bothy 65.jpg
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the comment Dave.

Now i that i`ve had a bit more time to look at it properly, (plus looking at yours) i think i`ve over cooked a few of the darker patches in the motar undercoat,hence the dark patches of brickwork.
So after i`ve sealed this first,i`ll go back over the brickwork with the English red,and then use some pigment powders to lighten the motar.


Anyhow, under the normal layout lighting the colours don`t look quite so harsh,so hopfully it won`t take too much work to remedy!.

Bridge #8.jpg

Cheers,
Brian.
 
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Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Now i that i`ve had a bit more time to look at it properly, (plus looking at yours) i think i`ve over cooked a few of the darker patches in the motar undercoat,hence the dark patches of brickwork.
So after i`ve sealed this first,i`ll go back over the brickwork with the English red,and then use some pigment powders to lighten the motar.

Bricks are a subject in their own right.... I've studied plenty of photographs and also look at building colours whilst making mental notes whenever I'm out.

After sealing the current layer I'd be inclined to try the mortar mix first to see the effect.

Are you using MIG pigments? If so these can be mixed with water to form a paste which can be brushed on. Once dry it can be wiped off with a damp sponge leaving the mortar behind.

I did this to this 1950's building and not all of the mortar came away from the face of the bricks, however it does leave the effect of the salts leeching out of the bricks which is often seen. I then randomly added darker bricks of varying shades representing those which have been burnt in the kiln.

Mess 96.jpg

For information the Bothy's base colour was this - Vallejo German Red Brown (Rot Braun RAL8012) surface primer:
Bothy 06.jpg
And the Mess Hut this - a pinkish orange mix for common 1950s London brick.
Mess 13.jpg
 
Thanks for the comment Dave.

Now i that i`ve had a bit more time to look at it properly, (plus looking at yours) i think i`ve over cooked a few of the darker patches in the motar undercoat,hence the dark patches of brickwork.
So after i`ve sealed this first,i`ll go back over the brickwork with the English red,and then use some pigment powders to lighten the motar.


Anyhow, under the normal layout lighting the colours don`t look quite so harsh,so hopfully it won`t take too much work to remedy!.

View attachment 117805

Cheers,
Brian.
With my novise eyes this looks good to me.
 
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