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Discussion in 'Layout Progress' started by Pencarrow, 1 March 2016.
Does that mean all rain will stop at the Tamar and Devon will remain sunny at all times?
But of course, we"ll have all the dry pasties and the Cornish ones will be soggy !
In closure of the etched windows, these are in the post to Chris this evening.
There's two to explore different bar thicknesses, both worked fine, that on the right being 0.05 mm narrower, could probably have gone the same amount again and they would of been okay for strength and etching, but maybe too thin for the real thing? To me the one on the right looks just about right.
Superb, thank you very much for this Mick.
For those not party to off-thread discussion this window is for the grain store, a peculiar diamond affair in a weird and wonderful building.
Seen here between the two wagons, above the roof level of the van.
Mid far-right in this extract.
And the current state of play in 7mm...
Those etchings look very nice. I'm wondering whether they are cast iron frame, rather than leaded. Our village hall had a large cast one.
Very difficult to tell Peter, I only have one close-up photo of the grain store and that only covers a small part of the building, excluding the window in question. All the other snippets are from the background of wider shots. The diamond window tends to be hidden behind rolling stock in the foreground. Sod's Law.
Just park a van in front then...
Very nice - if they are intended to be leaded windows then I'd be tempted to coat it with some solder cream and run a soldering iron over it just to make it a little more "3D" with a thin bead of solder.
You'd have to lay down on the boards facing the grain store for a van to obscure the view. Could be problematical operationally.
Can I just ask if you have a particular technique for applying the York lazer cut roof tiles? Do you apply them in long strips or smaller sections?
Just started applying some myself and they're sticky little bu@@ers aren't they!
Depends what effect you're after. Strips is best for a nice new, neat roof. I was after something a bit more random so cut them into 1s, 2s and 3s. Obviously takes much longer but gives a different result which suits roofs with depressions and lumps.
Yes they are sticky little blighters. You only really get one chance to position them. I drew guidelines on the roof to aid lining them up.
Don't overlook the frame around the time strip sheet. It's useful to make up different size tiles.
Hope this helps.
Eyes have been a bit skewiff the last week which has made close up work a bit difficult and so there's little progress to show.
I have however embarked on a further example of lunacy...
Yes, that's concrete blocks being separately cut and applied to the provender store base. They are cut from 10thou plasticard.
I've previously scribed this type of wall from plain sheet but the result was a bit too uniform and regular for my liking. Building the wall this way helps vary the block position and mortar course thicknesses.
Scribing the blockwork wasn't a quick option and surprisingly this isn't much slower.
Place reserved in the asylum.
It's always interesting revisiting a project you've not worked on for a while (18ish months in this case).
I've reviewed the few scant images of this building at Bodmin (all background extracts from larger photos)...
...and also the much more detailed but general photos in the excellent Southern Nouveau book...
...and decided that the work done on the building so far needed a few mods.
The black vertical framework strips have been shortened and now end at floor level. I'd mistaken the downpipe ends for a continuation of the framework. Accordingly the cladding has also been shortened. The new gap between the top of the blockwork and the base of the cladding is the floor slab.
There seems to be incredible variation in this type of building but this extract from Southern Nouvea is the best shot I can find of the arrangement I think I can see in the Bodmin North photos.
There seems to be a waterproof membrane of some sort between the cladding and the slab. The shot is also very useful for the door, blockwork and loading platform.
The above shot really helps interprete the Bodmin North photos and particularly some of the shadows and dark stains which I had assumed were recesses.
Current progress update on the provender store...
I'm definitely going to use the separate block method again. It's actually turned out to be quicker than scribing and I prefer the results.
Using Limonene as the solvent gives a bit of time to adjust placement and reduces the potential for thin overlays to be melted.
The roof has been clad using Wills asbestos sheets. These are meant for 4mm but seem to scale OK for 7mm. Yet another product I've used for ages in 4mm without realising it's too big or too coarse. All the thick edges have been thinned down significantly.
I was asked the other day via PM how I'd go about making steps. In that particular case it was stone steps and in 4mm.
I provided some thoughts but have just had to make 2 lots in 7mm for the provender store. These are not stone but what look like solid concrete. The method may be useful to somebody though.
I worked out that the tread I wanted was about 10" and the rise 8". A piece of 30thou was marked up in a grid giving 10" x 8" squares and a diagonal.
The 4 resultant triangles were snapped out...
And the the end small triangles removed...
Followed by all the rest...
These were paired up and stuck to the building base with vertical spacers used to align the sides.
You'll recall that the original 30thou with the grid had the horizontal lines extended to the right. These give you the vertical risers.
The risers have been cut slightly over length so they can be cut back flush when the solvent has hardened.
The final step is to add the treads and trim them down when set...
Something to consider is that you are adding 30thou to the front and top of the stepped sides. As such you have to set them 30thou low and trim 30thou off the rear.
Those close up shots certainly show that the methods used stand up to close scrutiny. It will look great when painted and weathered.
Thanks Phil, very kind.
Here's a couple more close-ups for you
now that the steps have been dressed and the loading platform tops added.
There's a bit more distressing and cleaning of joints to do but I'll wait until the plastic has hardened off first.
Magnificent work chap. They are perfect.
Special edition post just for you old fruit.
Hopefully not too perfect as they need to look a bit battered.
How are your own steps getting on?