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Discussion in 'Layout Progress' started by Pencarrow, 1 March 2016.
Curious lump and L section added (not easy curving L section!):
I like your eye for detail, Chris. A man after my own heart.
Thanks Heather - very dangerous looking at photos...
Yeah - I've found they're very good at highlighting the detail you've missed. In my case usually after the model is finished .
Making a start on the backhead using a Laurie Griffin boiler back pack (2-31). The Agenoria kit did come with a nice detail drawing but very few of the parts looked anything like the drawing or the photos I have.
The cast backhead is square, it's just the funny camera angle and lens distortion.
She's really looking like a 1366!
I wish I had your tenacity to stick with such a dreadfully designed kit!
Who says you can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear!
Fascinating thread, I really look forward to every instalment!!
So, another eagerly awaited installment!
Got bored with the backhead and so moved on. First some destruction, dismantling the parts that made up the fictitious Agenoria cab interior. These will be reused in the correct locations, although some parts will need modifying. I've had to chop the rear axle coil springs in half. Thankfully the casting was way too tall as only one was provided.
So that's the pile of bits. Not so obvious (deliberately) are the locating blocks added to the cab floor to help position the cab.
Also now missing are the plates that joined the cab sides at the foot of the entrance. This will allow me to add the flooring and sand box fillers.
Tiring couple of weeks at work and therefore needed something less technical than the 1366 to wind down.
A bog standard Parkside kit is the answer. A GWR V36.
Very pleased with this latest announcement as it gives me a much easier and cheaper route to getting 4666 for the layout.
My previous idea was to build the JLTRT kit at some point. Will be very happy not to have to tackle another pannier kit!
Must be something about me and GWR prototypes. Never really had any problems previously with Parkside kits but this GWR van has put up a fight. To get the body join nicely in the corners has required me to take a knife and files to the floor, with associated knock on issues with the solebars and framing. Still, sorted now...
Tiebars have been cut off to be replaced by brass - less likely to get broken.
Back to the 1366. Something had been bugging me for a while. The footplate valance. The kit positioned it really close to the edge but the detail photos I've been looking at show that it is set back much further. So out with the big iron...
...and off they come. Not an easy task.
This does mean the cylinders will stick out from under them correctly, the pipe down the side will sit under the footplate correctly and the inset near the cab can be deepened.
I was in two minds whether to take such drastic action but....
Will the rivets on the footplate now be in the wrong place?
No, probably the right place, such is the kit!
blimey you're taking no prisoners there! I think I need to search for a doffing one's hat smiley
Hopefully the extracts below show how far back the valance should be - certainly enough to have a plate on the rear of the buffer beam.
I was trying to ignore it but then I came to add the steam heat pipe and it jutted out beyond the footplate rather than being in shadow.
The tough bit is going to be putting it all back together!
Stick with the Minerva model it will be a lot less stress I'm sure lol ;-)
Nah it won't.
The footplate has a half etch edge already there, presumably that's where the original valance sat, you'll want to avoid the step in thickness if you can but I suspect you might not be so lucky as the real engine has quite inset valances.
None the less, you only need two strips of brass, say 3.0 x 0.5mm and add these to the lower side of the footplate for the full length, on the 'INSIDE' of where your new valance is going to go, these will form a nice straight edge for you to butt up your re-positioned valance, they will also add strength to the joint.
I suspect to get the required depth then the third option is going to be the one you have to choose and in which case, as JB notes, the rivets will not match.
yeah, Area 51 is all my fault
As American/"Foreign" modelling was often referred to as "the Dark Side" (to do with the fact that in the 1980s US HO was half the price of UK OO, but ran so much better it must involve some sort of witchcraft) so Cynric called the new section "Area 51" after the rumoured top-secret UFO place in the USA.
I did sneak on the Forum firstly with some UK O Scale (mainly a Heljan Hymek) so as to lure people into a false sense of security...
Area 51 soon developed into the "Non-Western/GWR" section of the Forum.
Sorry for the brief hi-jack & history lesson; as you were, and here's a toast to Minerva and their latest loco. (yes I have a Secret Steam side as well!)