Photos - weathering 7mm stock

Willy

Western Thunderer
I have started to weather some of my 7mm stock as follows.

I initially spray painted the wagons using Precision paints - I use an Aztek A470 airbrush - and then left them to dry for few days before applying the transfers. Then using the airbrush I applied very light coats of "dust", "rust" and "grimy black" over the body & chassis just to give it a generally 'dirty' appearance. This spraying was carried out along the sides and ends of the vehicles instead of straight on as for the main coats as this tends to catch the raised parts of the vehicle such as iron work & rivets, etc. and therefore brings out the detail. For this I used Floquil cellulose, which unfortunately, and as far as I know, is no longer available. When this was dry I then applied weathering powders using mainly "rust", "dirty brown" and a "grey", which is actually sold as eye make-up for the ladies, and indeed in this "enlightened" age I should say for men as well!  :D

I had already painted & lettered the GW open in the dark grey livery when I changed my mind and decided to paint it in BR livery. However when I tried to remove the paint I found that it was very difficult and put it to one side to have another go later. Then when I looked at it again I thought that I could make used of the partly removed livery and I felt that the remains of the old GW lettering didn't look out of place.

As for the smaller GW open with the tunnel inspection platform; I now intend to 'patch paint' that with a 'faded Gulf Red', just on the planking to the left. This is to represent a vehicle that is in Engineers use but it is not worth a full repaint. I scratch-built the platform on this wagon using wood. I didn't use specific dimensions but instead I built it to fit this particular wagon (Coopercraft) and it is based on the one fitted to the ex LMS wagon on page 45 of Robert Hendry's excellent book, "British Railway Goods wagons in colour",

I have learnt that although at first they looked fine to the naked eye, when I took the photos and viewed them in full resolution, the looked awful so I have had to tone them down a bit.

So, any advice on further progress would be greatly appreciated as would critical comment on what I have already done.

0W128894.jpg


0W146232.jpg


0GWOpenW1332a.jpg


0GWOpenW1332c.jpg


Cheers,

Willy
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Looks great Willy...

I too am on a huge learning curve at the moment... but one thing I might try would be to dry brush some rust colour onto the rivet heads on the doors.. and the end brackets just to bring out some of the detail, as it looks a little too uniform at the moment..

JB.
 

Willy

Western Thunderer
Thank you all for your kind comments and suggestions, which I will take on board. I have had a go at bringing out the detail as suggested and later on I will take some photos for comparison.

Now here are a couple of Parkside Ex GW vans! On the planked van the rust is quite prominent in the photo but in reality it is much more subdued.

I have also picked out a bit more detail on the Coopercraft GW open.

0W146232.jpg

0W128894.jpg

0GWOpenW1332c.jpg


Cheers


Willy
 

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Very nice weathering Willy :bowdown: , I think the chalk marks are especially effective :cool: :cool: :cool:, what did you use for this ?. Could you tell me when the prototype of those Coopercraft opens were withdrawn ? .......did any last into the 1970's ?

Cheers Phill
 

Willy

Western Thunderer
Thank you for the kind comments Phil.

I use two different types of pencil for the chalk marks and there is no real difference in the result. One type is an artists ?soft lead pencil? which my wife bought years ago in an art shop in Gosport. They are known as ?Berol KARISMACOLOR? and they came in a box of 24 different colours and are used for drawing. They are a bit like chinagraph pencils and you can buy them individually, which is just as well because although they are very good quality, they don't come cheap. The other is a ?water soluble pencil? which I bought in WH Smith many years ago. The benefit of the water soluble pencil is that if you don't like what you have done you can wipe it off completely using a damp cotton bud. The lead in both these is very compact and doesn?t crumble or break easily so they can be sharpened to a very fine point which they will retain.

I am afraid I am not an expert on when wagons were last in service. My excuse for this wagon is that has been transferred to Engineers service and has therefore survived. My plan is to build a small layout based on a wharf in an inner city with rail access is through a tunnel, which is beginning to show its age, and this wagon is used solely to inspect this tunnel and therefore never gets onto the main line! A bit of a silly story I know but it is my layout and it is not intended to be exhibited to the wider world!

Cheers,

Willy
 

28ten

Guv'nor
I would be surprised if the wagon lasted until the 70s. the 032 from Parkside might be a better bet.
 

Willy

Western Thunderer
28ten said:
I would be surprised if the wagon lasted until the 70s. the 032 from Parkside might be a better bet.

Thank you for that . My layout will be based on the last years of steam so maybe I can still justify it on restricted service.

Cheers

Willy
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
Willy said:
I have learnt that although at first they looked fine to the naked eye, when I took the photos and viewed them in full resolution, the looked awful so I have had to tone them down a bit.
I'd be more inclined to stick with what looks good "in the flesh" or, as you say, to the naked eye... although it might just be me, I find photos can overdo things with the resolution and make weathering look far "harsher" than it really is. that's what I think of my Class 22 photos...

Anyway I think your weathering is really good !!!
 

Willy

Western Thunderer
Jordan said:
I'd be more inclined to stick with what looks good "in the flesh" or, as you say, to the naked eye... although it might just be me, I find photos can overdo things with the resolution and make weathering look far "harsher" than it really is. that's what I think of my Class 22 photos...

Anyway I think your weathering is really good !!!


Thank you for your comments Jordan and I am inclined to agree with you as regards sticking with what looks right.

Willy
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
I want to know how you made the rust look so real please is the wagon made of steel or summat

Ian
 

Willy

Western Thunderer
Thank you CME.

I have a couple of 16T minerals in the pipeline and I am aiming at a well weathered appearance on one of them but I am not sure if I intend it to be as decrepit as yours!!! ;) :D

I know that the 'lettering & numbering' rules weren't always followed, especially in the smaller shops, so where did you you find the photograph of this particular wagon with the number on the right hand side as opposed to the left, which was correct.


Cheers,

Willy
 
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