Steve Cook

Flying Squad
I think the 'main event' is somewhat lagging behind you at the moment Jamie :D
You've done a very neat job on the spring mount assemblies, they look great.
In terms of the transfers you have got from CCT, are they sheet BL97, C64 or something else entirely? I forgot all about CCT when I was hunting things down for the PMV's over the weekend, I'm hoping that they may have something that would suit Simon and I.

When I've stopped bleeding over the workbench, I'll post a progress photo.

Many Thanks
Steve
 

Simon

Flying Squad
That looks terrific:thumbs:

I'm still in bookworld for the moment, but hope to return to the mother ship fairly soon:p

Simon
 

jamiepage

Western Thunderer
Hello Steve,
The sheet I have is BL97 (at 10mm/ft.).
It has BR transfers for plastic vans S1401/05/09S which is good news. The other BR/SR numbers on the sheet are PMV S128/45/60/97/99/200S. CCT S174/205/ 400/762S. Plus French/ English ferry service, plus some BR/WR CCT numbers.
They arrived within a week of order.
Yours
Jamie
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Thank you very much Jamie, appreciated :)
Sounds like it will cover most of the things Simon and I have talked about, excellent.

Thanks for those photos Roger, they will prove very useful :)

I've got the riveted strips soldered to one side of the PMV now. There was a bit of a wobble and I ended up having to remove the centre strips and vertical part that form the T iron due to some distortion in the window frame surrounds. Its all gone back together as best I can get it - its a bit lumpy on the half etched recess, I hope I can hide that behind the frame proper.

PMV24 One side of riveted strips.jpg

No progress tomorrow, but aiming to start the second side on Friday.
Steve
 

D816Foxhound

Western Thunderer
Here's one of the build photos of my PMV.

MOD PMV 2.jpg

The build had stretched my patience to the limit by this stage and construction proceeded half heartedly.
My soldering looks a mess here, though I did clean it up later. The milling on the brass channel that replaced
the kit solebars can just about be made out, and the "fit" (or lack of it) of the body end diagonals can be clearly seen.

Roger
 
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Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Cheers for that Roger - looks like you didn't fit the riveted panels that go behind the ventilator hoods - was that based on a prototype photo?

Had a good session on the bench yesterday, got the T and L iron strips in place on the second side, made up and fitted some extra strips to represent the angle iron on either side of the doors at the bottom, then finished off with thin slivers of nickel strip down each door side (with them stopping on the edge of the first whole plank at the bottom). Quite what they are there for I have no idea - but on they are there on all the reference photos so I've stuck them on.

PMV26 Second side rivetted strips.jpg

PMV25 Second side rivetted strips.jpg

Its all getting a bit tight for the ventilator hoods and their surrounds, I may have to file the odd edge to keep a gap around the edges.
Need to work out how to make the diagonal angle iron now.
Steve
 

D816Foxhound

Western Thunderer
You spotted the deliberate mistake then Steve! I just forgot to put the riveted panels on and only noticed the error a lot later on in the build. By then it would have been quite a lot of work to sort out so I left it as is.

Roger
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Ah, OK Roger, sorry for bringing that up in public :oops: Can't blame you for not correcting it, I had to do a double take, and to be fair hadn't clocked it until your last photo...

Made up some angle iron this afternoon from some 10 thou nickel silver sheet. I should have taken some photos really, but its basically scribing a line with a scrawker 1.5mm from the edge, deepening that groove until you get a witness mark on the reverse side with files and scrawker, then cutting off a 3mm strip off the material with the groove in the middle of it. Cut to length, press out rivets, fold along groove, file tapered ends and solder in place. Said like that its dead easy, it still takes me nigh on an hour to fabricate and solder each one in place with the small spacer underneath that keeps it clear of the body sides. Still, all four are done, here is one in close up

PMV27 Diagonal Angle Iron.jpg

Time to cook up a casserole I think, be nice to make something and not need a soldering iron at the end of it :)
Steve
 

jamiepage

Western Thunderer
Roger's timely PMV photos really have been tremendously useful to help attack the brake gear. The arrangement of single hanger per brakeblock and the overall appearance of the blocks themselves, suggested a laminated construction.
The first attempt has been soldered up.
The top hole on each block will remain unused, as Roger's photos; the lower hole will be drilled through and used for crossbars. A cosmetic bolthead between the two will represent the hanger/ block mounting bolt.
The pads need to be filed thinner. Overall, the blocks are probably thinner than scale, but will be laterally spaced (due to crossbars) to look reasonably convincing with drop in wheelsets of differing back to backs in the interests of route availability.
IMG_0001.JPG IMG_0001.JPG IMG_0001.JPG
 

jamiepage

Western Thunderer
Steve, thank you. Yes, the pantograph was used. The patterns are for 3ft 1 in. wheels which affect all dimensions of the main shape of course, when compared with that required for 3ft 7in wheels but I would be happy to run some bits off for you- and Simon- if you can't get on with the white metal bits, and if you think they may be of some help.
Adam, thank you. Your photos of your dad's model were very useful indeed, especially when I was trying to understand the basics of the vac brake linkage.
With Roger's photos to hand, some progress has been made on said linkage, including a replacement vac cylinder and attendant linkage because the first attempt was starting to look too weedy. Probably overcompensated now with something a bit too chunky.
IMG_0001.JPG
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Looking very good Steve, but aren't those chalkboards quite a lot undersize in both planes? They look about right for 7mm...
http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/srpmv/h1e701a93#he634916

They are a little under nourished, theres no denying it.

Steve, thank you. Yes, the pantograph was used. The patterns are for 3ft 1 in. wheels which affect all dimensions of the main shape of course, when compared with that required for 3ft 7in wheels but I would be happy to run some bits off for you- and Simon- if you can't get on with the white metal bits, and if you think they may be of some help.

Thank you very much for the offer Jamie, I'll let you know how I get on :)
Best get back to it before you go screaming off into the distance :))
Steve
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
The window frames have been cut from the etch and both the inside and outside edges filed down to remove the cusp.
Each frame is soldered to an L shaped piece of scrap etch to help hold it. The outside of the frame is covered in red marker.

PMV30 window frame 1.jpg

I filed a chamfer on the inside edge of the outside face, using the removal of the marker as a guide.

PMV31 window frame 2.jpg

With it all cleaned up

PMV32 window frame 3.jpg

I hope that the thinner inside edge is now more apparent even if the final shape isn't 100% correct, at least they match my GBL window frames :)
Four down, four to go...
Steve
 

D816Foxhound

Western Thunderer
Blimey Steve!

I didn't go this far with my kit. My window frames got a quick tidy up and were "welded" in place - no finesse whatsoever!

And to make life easy at the painting stage, my windows are solid brass. So no faffing with glazing and the rodding behind the glass.

Your window frames look very nice and should add to the overall look of the PMV.

Roger
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
No problem with that at all, drift away Jamie :)
She looks beautiful, I hope she passed OK?

Having got the other four window frames filed to shape this morning, I came to solder them on and decided I couldn't live with the chalk board positioning. There are holes behind each chalk board to help with soldering them in position, unfortunately the holes are not centred in the panels and are far enough apart that the chalk board can only fit in one position to cover them up. In a couple of places, the holes can't actually be covered up so some careful solder shaping is required to hide them.

PMV33 off centre chalk boards.jpg

The first step was to measure up some of the reference photos downloaded from Paul Bartlett's site using the ventilator hood to scale off and made to suit my model. I ended up shrinking them a bit more until I was happy that they looked OK. I then cut six further blanks out and soldered them together, squaring one end and one side up as reference points (they are the two sides not shown in the photo below).

PMV34 pair of chalk boards and a stack.jpg

The two shaped chalk boards were then soldered to the stack using the squared edges to ensure alignment, then whole ensemble filed to shape. Clever people would be able to do it with just one chalk board as a template - I still struggle to file to a line accurately and squarely so a template on either side just makes it easier for me :)

PMV35 stack filed to shape.jpg

Application of a hot soldering iron and a craft knife blade separated the the chalk boards, they were then cleaned up on one side (I left the other covered in solder as it is now pre-tinned)

PMV36 8 new chalk boards.jpg

Time for a spot of lunch, then I can unsolder the original boards and put the new ones and window frames into position.
Steve
 
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