Re profiling wheels

28ten

Guv'nor
This is a bit rough and ready, so please ask any questions :laugh:
the C3 is more than accurate if you take suitable precautions and have it set up properly. Things to not: a saddle lock is essential for facing and using the form tool. in the last picture you can see the Dial indicator I use to measure the cross slide travel - much more accurate for measuring the facing operation. FWIW i never trust the the leadscrew measurements and I always use a dial indicator where possible. (Arc euro do a 2 inch model for about ?25)
although not shown here a set of colletts is another essential - you can pick up a set for about ?35 from the right place

After facing the rear of the wheel in the soft jaws .the wheel is mounted in a mandrel with a Slaters axle fitted to in the center,
[attachment=2:1c2pk5n2]IMG_2836.JPG[/attachment:1c2pk5n2]
this needs to be secure so I reamed the hole to a precise fit and secured the axle with loctite 601 and left it overnight. It is also essential to use a live center and a clamping disc to support the wheel, force the tread against the mandrel and prevent the wheel from turning on the plastic center. Dont forget to make this before the mandrel as you dont want to remove the mandrel once the axle is fitted otherwise it will need to be reset with a dti to ensure concentricity.[attachment=1:1c2pk5n2]IMG_2853.JPG[/attachment:1c2pk5n2]
It is then simply a matter of fitting a wheel to the squared axle placing the clamp over the boss and tightening the live center, make sure everything is secure and sufficient pressure is being exerted. when you are happy blue the tread and reprofiling can begin.
I use 140-180 rpm and light cuts. Keep the tool and tread clear of swarf as it can cause chatter and jam the tool. Listen to the sound of the tool and you will hear any binding which precedes the tool diging into the workpiece. I aim to just skim the blue off the tread, and once you reach this state the tread can be deburred and removed from the mandrel. The next stage is to face and polish the wheels. and job done
[attachment=0:1c2pk5n2]IMG_2880.JPG[/attachment:1c2pk5n2]
 

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Pugsley

Western Thunderer
Superb, thanks very much for this, it's very helpful.

Two questions - how do you ensure that the wheel is true in the chuck when you mount it for facing the rear, and, how do you mount the wheel for turning down the central boss? Certainly the second one has me stumped at the moment!
 

28ten

Guv'nor
You need the soft jaws to true the rear face of the wheel, this diagram should make it clear why
[attachment=0:14opnmh8]Untitled_1.jpg[/attachment:14opnmh8]

the front of the tread is the reference so the jaw is faced for the wheel tread and coning angle I use 2deg rather than the 3deg of the coning angle as I have found this allows a little room for error. note the flange should not rest on the jaw hence the 100 thou depth.

Turning the center boss is simple - after doing the treads as a batch refit each wheel and tighten it up with a slaters allen screw and face it off to the desired width, because you will need to face the screw as well otherwise it will stand proud of the wheel boss. then just keep the screw and wheel as a matched pair and you have a perfect fit....
 

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Pugsley

Western Thunderer
Ah, soft jaws are one thing I don't have, which would explain some of the difficulty I've been having. As for the facing of the boss - what a 'D'Oh' moment! It doesn't matter about the screws, as I'm drilling through the wheels and reaming for an interference fit on the axles.

Thanks for the help - I'm going to give it a go at the weekend, I'll let you know how I get on!
 
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