7mm Ressaldar - NLR Park 0-6-0t

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Having parted company with all but one of my diesel fleet and the greater part of the diesel library, I was able to think about what to do next on the workbench. I had been keeping my eye on an un-started kit for a North London Railway Park 0-6-0t which had been advertised on the Guild website for a couple of weeks, especially as it was at a very reasonable offer - I had built one about eight years ago for a fellow Club member and had quite enjoyed it, so an offer was made for collection at Telford.

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Wheels were collected from Slaters, motor/gearbox from ABC, sound decoder (J94) and sugar cube speaker from Digitrains.

That will be second on the bench - first is the completed Connoisseur SR Queen Mary brake van, picked up from the E&T stand, albeit in need of a repaint, but the build quality was not too bad

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so this has been the subject of a Nitromors bath during the week and will hopefully be primed tomorrow, followed by some BR Bauxite and weathering.

Then once the above are complete, plus the 33 lurking in the background of the picture above, I should be in the mood to do battle with this

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which was delivered yesterday morning, despite agreeing with Dave Sharp that he would post it on Monday!!

It will be completed in mid 1950s livery - small 1st totem, as 30772 Sir Percivale - the pride of 73C Hither Green shed (my loco shed) from August 1954 to June 1957.

So hopefully, I will be kept off the streets for a good while yet..............................photos to come in due course.

Mike

ps You can just see my other Telford purchase behind the Queen Mary -
an ex Southampton Docks B4 0-4-0t number 30088 which has been fitted with a sound decoder (J94) this week.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Proper job Mike: very neatly proportioned and powerful-looking. They went a bit early for my 4mm interests (except for the preserved example), which is a pity so I'm going to take some vicarious pleasure in watching this progress.

Adam
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
I started the build yesterday, cut out the frames and front/rear spacers,cleaned them up, inserted the bearings and soldered front spacer to left side and rear spacer to right side ready for the join-up this morning. Ran the hand reamer through to clean the bushes out, inserted the alignment rods and with the front and rear carefully held with mini clamps, let the RSU do its work on the 'free'ends of the spacers. Broke out the Slaters wheel sets - I had deliberately chosen one axle of 'H' spoke wheels as acording to the instructions it was commonplace to have a mixed set of axles on these locos (although on the photo that I am working to, they are all plain - RULE 1 applies!) Cleaned up each axle by wrapping some fine wet & dry around it and twisting back and forth for half a dozen turns, cleaned up the axle ends, first wheel on, inserted into the bush, second wheel on, repeated for the other two axles, placed chassis on track - free running chassis first time, no rocking on the plate glass plate either, so a happy bunny.

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after lunch the wheel guards and brake hangers were attached (rear set of guards attached on wrong side!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) good reason for taking and checking progress photos.

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next step was laminating the brake hang/shoe assembly with pieces of wire inserted into wood block to aid alignment. Cleaning up these assemblies will be tomorrow mornings task, prior to going down the Club for a running session with the J63 & B4.

cheers

Mike
 

AJC

Western Thunderer

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Adam,

many thanks for posting the links. I particularly like the Mike Morant one as it clearly shows the original lamp bracket on the chimney - mine will not have this feature!!

regards

Mike
 
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Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Hi Mike, you may find it worthwhile rubbing the backs of the wheels on fine wet and dry on a flat surface such as the glass you have used. Not only will it polish the rear of the tyres and prevent rusting to a certain degree, it will also show if the brass boss in the middle is flat to the spokes, if not, you'll have wonky wheels...

JB.
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Mike, you may find it worthwhile rubbing the backs of the wheels on fine wet and dry on a flat surface such as the glass you have used. Not only will it polish the rear of the tyres and prevent rusting to a certain degree, it will also show if the brass boss in the middle is flat to the spokes, if not, you'll have wonky wheels...

JB.

Hi JB,

Many thanks for that, it is one of the items on my Slater's check list - a much thumbed piece of paper! - I will be removing the wheelsets tomorrow, once I have 'hung' the brake gear and then I will hopefully be able to leave them off until the cylinders are on and need an alignment check etc.

regards

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Brake hangers and pull rods now fitted (pull rod into cab just tack soldered in a position to keep it out of the way for the time being)

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and inner leaf springs fitted - although shown on the drawings, for some reason are not mentioned in the destructions! Still got to rehang the rear life guards.

I think a session on wheel blackening beckons tomorrow!

cheers

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Not too much done today, but progress all the same.

Having used the Proxxon with wire cup attachment to clean off the rust on the wheels and axles, I remembered that I said I would do a before and after set of photos:rant::rant::rant:......dumbo:rolleyes:

I then set up suitable dishes for the Mickoo magic mixture (I went for the 5:1 dilution) , water bath and new roll of kitchen towels, I started with the axles and then the H section pair, followed by the two plain pairs. Dried each piece as it came out of the rinse bath, left it on a clean piece of towel and slid indoors for lunch. Suitably refreshed, I repeated the bathing procedure and followed that with each piece going into the oil bath - I used Singer machine oil, again each piece went onto the kitchen towel to soak in the oil and finally the wheels were reintroduced to the axles - one satisfied pupil, thank you Master Mick:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

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it is interesting that the wheel bosses on the H spoke version have not blackened at all compared with limited success on the plain wheels.

I then laminated and cleaned up the rods and the motion bracket ready for a quick start out of the gate at the next session.

cheers

Mike
 
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mickoo

Western Thunderer
They look just the ticket ;), much better than mine so teacher turns pupil :cool: and I'll try with a little more care on the drivers this weekend.

If you want to blacken the boss then use a blackening agent for brass as opposed for steel, same process and you should end up with black bosses, but rather than bathing the wheels, apply it with a cotton bud and then rinse under water, the oil layer on the rims should help protect them but I'd oil them all back up afterward.

MD
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
That is an amazing result on the wheels. I've never achieved anywhere near that, but then I do still apply it neat with a cotton bud..!!

JB.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
That is an amazing result on the wheels. I've never achieved anywhere near that, but then I do still apply it neat with a cotton bud..!!

JB.
So did I until the last batch, dilution is key, as is the wash/soak in clean water afterward.

MD
 
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