Return to the dark ages - DC control

[Dog Star]

So why think about DC control when we have embraced DCC for all of our locos to date? An interesting question, the reason is down to ease of working when constructing a model. As an example:- we are building a MMP Cl.08 and we have reached the point at which the inner frames are to be fitted with motor, wheels, axleboxes and coupling rods. Seems to me that the task of getting the wheeled frame to run smoothly is going to be easier with DC control because there is no need to fit the decoder and its gubbins so early in the build (plus we have yet to source a sound decoder etc..).

We use Maxon motors with ABC Gearboxes and I am advised that the Maxon is a coreless controller so that rules out those Gaugemaster controllers which use PCM to control motor speed (noted on the Gaugemaster website).

What DC controllers do WTers consider as suitable for use when testing the installation of an ABC Maxon / Gearbox combination as part of the build sequence. No long duration running, no desire for inertia / braking, no fancy features - just a simple controller.

thank you, Graham

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Graham,

I use a Maplin regulated bench supply unit,

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/75w-dc-variable-voltage-bench-power-supply-gw02c

it has both a volt meter and ammeter with a double pole double throw switch fitted in line for when using the variable voltage supply. The control is far greater then a standard controller and the ammeter is a great help for when short circuits 'appear'.

cheers

Mike

 

[Overseer]

I suggest making your own based on a LM317T voltage regulator. Cheap, easy to put together, work very well and reliable. I have made a number of fancy controllers with differing wave forms, inertia, variable current limiting etc etc but prefer the simple straight DC of the voltage regulator circuit. Any of the circuits available on line will work, the only change I make is to add a couple of diodes in one of the output leads to the reversing switch to drop the minimum voltage from 1.2V to 0. Most of mine are handheld in small diecast boxes which act as the heat sink. They do warm up if the current is above 0.5 amps but not really with Mashimas or coreless motors.

 

[Dog Star]

I use a Maplin regulated bench supply unit,
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/75w-dc-variable-voltage-bench-power-supply-gw02c

Nice, bit more than I want to pay.

I suggest making your own...

Thank you Fraser, I am not keen on making my own electrical products so for now this suggestion is at the bottom of the pile.

 

[Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen]

Graham,
I use an ancient H & M Duette, bought back in 1975.

Tim

 

[TheSnapper]

Graham,
I use an ancient H & M Duette, bought back in 1975.

Tim

I use an ancient H & M Clipper - works fine (KISS principle!)

Tim

 

[Dan Randall]

I bought one of these from a box shifter at this year's Railex, for the same reason....

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=b...fOqwsgCFQZVFAodBqkLQQ&ei=c3weVrn0AoaqUYbSrogE

I seem to recall mine was £25 too, but obviously, I had no postage to pay.


Regards

Dan

 

[ceejaydee]

From my controller stock the first choice would be one of my Gaugemaster controllers but as already mentioned they are not suitable for this application.
I still have my H&M Duette but would probably use the Bachmann controller that Dan has linked to above. Mine came with my G scale Percy set and is a pretty good controller for not much outlay.

 

[Dog Star]

Since starting this topic I have spoken to Gaugemaster and received assurance that the Combi unit at £39 does not use pulse code modulation hence the unit is suitable for coreless motors. Not necessarily the finest / smoothest of control, such is not needed for the purpose so I have ordered one.

 

[Dog Star]

I have a Duette ... . At only 1Amp output it might not be powerful enough to test an O scale model.

Just for interest, we have a 7mm diesel with two Maxon 6w motors and on a recent outing I noted that the total current draw was less than 1/4 amp.

 

[richard carr]

Graham

It's not really going back to the dark ages as its much easier to prove you have a nicely running chassis with a dc controller, than it is with DCC.

I do use a gaugemaster series 100 which works just fine with maxon and portescap motors.

Richard

 

[Scale7JB]

I use something a whole lot simpler... A 9v pp3 battery..

JB.

 

[Nigel Cliffe]

Possibly a bit late, but if the requirement is 0.25A, then a MedVend handheld might do the job. Running the "Z" model on 9v should be OK for testing, though a 12v or 15v smooth DC adaptor may be better. (Use a decent, and cheap, switched mode power brick, not a crude nasty old transformer ! ).

http://www.medvend.hu/analog_en.html

The cased handheld units are about Euro30 from the maker, plus postage (Euro8 when I last had a pricelist).
Or, for 2mm Scale Association members, available from the 2mm shops.


( My DC test setup is a Pentroller with a built in ammeter, but they have not been made for best part of 20 years, and these days are advertised for very silly prices on Ebay. I do have an old Duette, but wouldn't use that for serious testing. )


- Nigel

 

[Neil]

Another vote for the Bachmann train set controller. I have two, they're the equal of my Gaugemaster controller, they cost £4.00 and £12.00 both new but unboxed and split from train sets.