7mm Rising Star/Slaters LNER F8
- Thread starter Rob Pulham
- Start date
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
I may have fallen at the first hurdle on that one Steph - How does one short out wheels that have no metal centre boss? It looks like some Slaters wheels are now added to the shopping list for Telford. Unless someone has an answer to my latest dilemma?
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Rob,
Can you post some close-up shots of the back of the wheel hub and the axle end, please? I've got a couple of ideas which I've used in the past to solve that sort of problem when I was modelling in 4mm scale.
If you can't don't worry, but it may take me a couple of days to work up some sketches.
Steph
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Certainly
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Rob,
And the axle end, please - I'm not familiar with the Gibson 7mm wheels.
Have you got any 5A fuse wire? You'll probably be needing it...
Steph
And the axle end, please - I'm not familiar with the Gibson 7mm wheels.
Have you got any 5A fuse wire? You'll probably be needing it...
Steph
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Oops!
I haven't any fuse wire but I have various thickness's of soft brass beading wire
I haven't any fuse wire but I have various thickness's of soft brass beading wire
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Rob,
This page on my website may give you some ideas. I think you'd probably need to attach the wire to the end of the axle, above the shoulder. Perhaps sticking it in to a drilled pilot hole? Or filing a small chamfer in which the wire can be soldered? The blue dot marks the spot...:
The wheels would need a groove putting through the boss on the back of the wheel, the wire would then be run out to the rim through the groove, again the blue line should give an idea:
And then it can be assembled, at which point it may look a little like this (my image, showing Gibson 4mm scale wheelset - ignore the one in the background!):
Steph
This page on my website may give you some ideas. I think you'd probably need to attach the wire to the end of the axle, above the shoulder. Perhaps sticking it in to a drilled pilot hole? Or filing a small chamfer in which the wire can be soldered? The blue dot marks the spot...:
The wheels would need a groove putting through the boss on the back of the wheel, the wire would then be run out to the rim through the groove, again the blue line should give an idea:
And then it can be assembled, at which point it may look a little like this (my image, showing Gibson 4mm scale wheelset - ignore the one in the background!):
Steph
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
What stops or minimises wheel wobble on the axle? Unless I am mis-interpreting the picture there is less than a millimetre to the shoulder and that does not seem enough to keep the wheel at right angles to the axis of the acle.
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
I had looked at Slaters lists and couldn't find any 3' 9" 10 spoke wheels so I thought worn it would have to be. Then a gent on the guild site pointed me at some 3' 9" 10 spoke LNWR General pattern wheels in Slaters lists that I had completely missed when looking.
Here is where I admit to a proper Doh!! moment
. Last night I realised that the safety valve bonnet in the kit is a white metal casting - a very nice whitemetal casting to be fair. But I want to be able to finish it as polished brass. While I could probably paint it brass coloured and varnish it, I would rather it be brass and with a lever (which mine hasn't got at present although I could no doubt make one up from some scrap etch).
I have a Laurie Griffin/Shedmaster LNER J24/25 kit in my stash so I thought that I would have a look at the safety valve cover to see if it was what I had in mind. (to add it to the list of things that I need to get from Laurie at Telford). While looking I noticed that the tender wheels were Slaters 3' 9" 10 spoke LNWR General Pattern..... A quick check in my F5 kit revealed two axles Slaters 3' 9" 10 spoke LNWR General Pattern.....
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Having got all the chores in the garden out of the way in preparation for the landscapers coming the Mojo returned in force and yesterday I shorted out the wheels and blackened them (tapping the threads 10ba and fitting 10ba screws). I then drilled out an axle ready for epoxying GRP rod down the centre and blackened and made a start on drilling out the coupling rods.
It feels good to have made a start on it.
I also discovered while looking at the various bits and pieces that there isn't a back head so I have one on order from Laurie Griffin - my Telford shopping list grows!
The observant amongst you will have noticed the 2 shorted out Slaters bogie wheels? Having realised that I had them in stock I chickened out of messing with the Gibson's and they are destined for the Bay of E. I had nicely finished blackening them and cleaned up when I realised that I should have done both pairs:0(
It feels good to have made a start on it.
I also discovered while looking at the various bits and pieces that there isn't a back head so I have one on order from Laurie Griffin - my Telford shopping list grows!
The observant amongst you will have noticed the 2 shorted out Slaters bogie wheels? Having realised that I had them in stock I chickened out of messing with the Gibson's and they are destined for the Bay of E. I had nicely finished blackening them and cleaned up when I realised that I should have done both pairs:0(
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Rob,
If you're using the coupling rods to pass current don't you want to run wires from the crankpins to the rims on both driving wheelsets? I agree you only need one pair wired rim to hub...
Or have I missed something? Entirely possible...
Steph
If you're using the coupling rods to pass current don't you want to run wires from the crankpins to the rims on both driving wheelsets? I agree you only need one pair wired rim to hub...
Or have I missed something? Entirely possible...
Steph
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Rob,
If you're using the coupling rods to pass current don't you want to run wires from the crankpins to the rims on both driving wheelsets? I agree you only need one pair wired rim to hub...
Or have I missed something? Entirely possible...
Steph
Nope you haven't, yet another Doh! moment on my part....
- two steps backward and one forwards.Thanks for pointing it out
, I would have been wondering why it didn't work.......The positive that I can take from this is that you really learn when things go wrong or that's what I am telling myself to keep positive (I don't want that Mojo wandering of again!)
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Thanks Mike, I got it sorted last night and I won't make that mistake again . I also managed to drill out the coupling rods so that's another little job out of the way. I am not rushing on it because there is much that I need from Telford but if I can keep doing a bit to maintain the interest then all will be good.
. I also managed to drill out the coupling rods so that's another little job out of the way. I am not rushing on it because there is much that I need from Telford but if I can keep doing a bit to maintain the interest then all will be good.
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
I am slowly but surely making progress.
I have now prepared the axles for epoxying. The observant among you will note that there are more axles than I need splitting for the F8 here. I had already drilled out the centres of 3 axles previously for one of my other tanks so I decided to drill a fourth the only one that I need for the F8 and then do the rest of the splitting on the four. Working on the mix plenty of epoxy up that every article on split axles that I have read recommends it seemed sensible to do a few while I have the job on the go.
In the main I followed Steph's nicely documented method found here
The only deviations from Steph's methods are that I used my pillar drill to drill out the axles and having tried a diamond slitting disk, as Steph recommends for cutting the GRP rod, I still got some fraying.
My alternative was to roll a scalpel blade backwards and forwards over it until it cut through (much like you would to cut microbore tube). It took a little longer but resulted in a nice clean cut with no fraying.
There are more holes than are visible in the photo above I just did a poor job of positioning them for the photo.
Next job is the messy one - epoxy here I come....
I have now prepared the axles for epoxying. The observant among you will note that there are more axles than I need splitting for the F8 here. I had already drilled out the centres of 3 axles previously for one of my other tanks so I decided to drill a fourth the only one that I need for the F8 and then do the rest of the splitting on the four. Working on the mix plenty of epoxy up that every article on split axles that I have read recommends it seemed sensible to do a few while I have the job on the go.
In the main I followed Steph's nicely documented method found here
The only deviations from Steph's methods are that I used my pillar drill to drill out the axles and having tried a diamond slitting disk, as Steph recommends for cutting the GRP rod, I still got some fraying.
My alternative was to roll a scalpel blade backwards and forwards over it until it cut through (much like you would to cut microbore tube). It took a little longer but resulted in a nice clean cut with no fraying.
There are more holes than are visible in the photo above I just did a poor job of positioning them for the photo.
Next job is the messy one - epoxy here I come....
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Despite having quite a busy social life at present with one thing and another I have still made some progress on the F8
I finished splitting the axles - they just need a final clean up - only one of these is for the F8 though (the one with the two splits)
And here's the one that got away
- I was doing them last thing at night and I can only surmise that I didn't take enough time to work the epoxy fully through the spilt. The upside is that I can make use of the stub axles....... or so I am telling myself.
I assume that Slaters sell single axles?
While the epoxy has been drying I also made small start on assembling the boiler.
As you can see from the photo the boiler bands are formed from a half etched recess and then an etched strip that fit's in the recess but has folds/holes etched in for the cleats. I wondered if I could use a scale hardware stud to represent the fastener.
I have only done the one so far (and I need to centre it yet) - from the instructions there are two that will be visible beyond the ends of tanks. The rest need to be cut short when a cut out is made for the motor.
I finished splitting the axles - they just need a final clean up - only one of these is for the F8 though (the one with the two splits)
And here's the one that got away
- I was doing them last thing at night and I can only surmise that I didn't take enough time to work the epoxy fully through the spilt. The upside is that I can make use of the stub axles....... or so I am telling myself.I assume that Slaters sell single axles?
While the epoxy has been drying I also made small start on assembling the boiler.
As you can see from the photo the boiler bands are formed from a half etched recess and then an etched strip that fit's in the recess but has folds/holes etched in for the cleats. I wondered if I could use a scale hardware stud to represent the fastener.
I have only done the one so far (and I need to centre it yet) - from the instructions there are two that will be visible beyond the ends of tanks. The rest need to be cut short when a cut out is made for the motor.
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
And here's the one that got away
Indeed you can Rob.
Drill out the centres. Cut more rod. Glue the rod through both halves. Roughly quarter by eye and leave to set in a V block at the correct back to back. Use for a tender or bogie wheel.
Or throw them away and buy a new one from Slater's
Richard
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
The sun shone very nicely in our part of the world today. So having done some chores yesterday and bearing in mind Chris's desire to get me out in the garden more I took some modelling out into the garden today.
The chores took the form of making a walkway across the stream bed.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84722026@N05/9878819175/
Chris took a couple of shots of me modelling in the garden just in case it never happens again
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84722026@N05/9878787944/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84722026@N05/9878870054/
The modelling tool the form of cutting out for the hornblocks/guides on the chassis and drilling out all the rivets - the etched marks that Slaters/Rising Star have on the etches are way too big so I plan to use some lace pin heads as the Scale hardware rivets that I have in stock are all quite small.
The chores took the form of making a walkway across the stream bed.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84722026@N05/9878819175/
Chris took a couple of shots of me modelling in the garden just in case it never happens again
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84722026@N05/9878787944/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84722026@N05/9878870054/
The modelling tool the form of cutting out for the hornblocks/guides on the chassis and drilling out all the rivets - the etched marks that Slaters/Rising Star have on the etches are way too big so I plan to use some lace pin heads as the Scale hardware rivets that I have in stock are all quite small.