Rivet press

[SteadyRed]

Firstly I must just say that no kits were damaged during trials of my riveting techniques!

After trying to emboss rivets with a small hand punch, I failed miserably, maybe I am just too heavy handed, I take my hat off to anyone who regularly uses this technique for more than a handful of rivets.

Next was a sliding weight on a small bar (much like a smaller version of a slide hammer), better but I can see it being tedious if doing many rivets, i.e. on a tender side or similar.

Neither method worked for me, resulting rivets are too variable, I am now thinking either Metalsmith or G W Models rivet press. I know yet more spending.

Anyone used either of the above tools or can recommend alternatives?

Dave

 

[Simon Varnam]

A vote here for the G W Models press, one of the best tools I ever purchased.

 

[Rob Pulham]

A vote here for the G W Models press, one of the best tools I ever purchased.

And a second

 

[adrian]

Anyone used either of the above tools or can recommend alternatives?

I use a Cherry Scale Models Riveter which was the precursor to the MetalSmith one. It works fine for me, the rivet spacing is done automatically with the anvil. Once you have punched the first rivet that then provides a positive stop against the anvil for the next rivet. So you can get regular spaced rivets quite easily and the GW rivet press just seems a bit of overkill to me with the feed-screws. Although I suppose I should declare a bias in that it was my Dad that made the Cherry Riveter and the one I use I made myself with extra anvils. That said I think either will do the job just fine.

 

[Locomodels]

I use a Cherry Scale Models Riveter which was the precursor to the MetalSmith one. It works fine for me, the rivet spacing is done automatically with the anvil. Once you have punched the first rivet that then provides a positive stop against the anvil for the next rivet. So you can get regular spaced rivets quite easily and the GW rivet press just seems a bit of overkill to me with the feed-screws. Although I suppose I should declare a bias in that it was my Dad that made the Cherry Riveter and the one I use I made myself with extra anvils. That said I think either will do the job just fine.

Plus 1. For the MetalSmith. Also I agree that the GW is overkill.

And as Adrian says you can make extra anvils for both rivet head size and spacing. Though I confess that you do need a lathe for this.
The Tony Reynalds rivet press is a smaller version, with multiple anvils, which is itself a copy of the Stan Beeson riveting tool.

 

[tomstaf]

And a second

Have to add a third hand of support here! It's the most accurate, and easiest tool I've ever used!

Cheers

Tom

 

[SteveO]

I have the basic version of the GW riveter. It cost around £45 and works fine for me. The handle is the only minus point on this version as it's sharp-edged square section and quite uncomfortable to use. I've put on a Christmas bauble so it's a bit more comfortable to use, but you could simply wrap the lever in bicycle handlebar tape. Actually, that's not a bad idea...

 

[adrian]

The Tony Reynalds rivet press is a smaller version, with multiple anvils, which is itself a copy of the Stan Beeson riveting tool.

Which was being developed by Lee Marsh as the

"BRM riveting tools" BRM stands for Beeson-Reynalds-Marsh.

at £130 - until he went into batch bulding locos when it all went quiet on the BRM riveter.
http://www.modelmaker.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/forsale.html

 

[Overseer]

I have a Double L riveting tool which works well. It has a nice cast iron frame and the standard dies are good. Not sure if it is still available. One problem with all the lever operated tools is that you have to concentrate on using the same amount of force for each rivet to achieve consistency. The best riveting tool I have used was a friend's homemade one which has a drop weight on a vertical rod - set the height of the stop then just lift the weight until it hits the stop and let go, easy consistency without thinking. Another friend was having trouble achieving consistency with a GW Models press so we added a vertical rod and drop weight to replace the lever (left in place but folded back so it can be used either way) and this has made consistency far easier to achieve.

 

[Dikitriki]

But the GW Models rivet press has a depth stop, so once set up, consistency is guaranteed.

I use a GW models press. I should have bought the one with a bigger throat, but at the time I thought it was too expensive.

Richard

 

[Dan Randall]

Another friend was having trouble achieving consistency with a GW Models press so we added a vertical rod and drop weight to replace the lever (left in place but folded back so it can be used either way) and this has made consistency far easier to achieve.

Being the owner of the GW Models tool, I'd be interested in seeing a drawing and/or photo of said conversion if possible please.

Anyway, as it stands, it's another positive vote from me too - I'm not sure I could have achieved these rivets on a circular pitch without the handwheels to control the X & Y positioning....




It's pretty good on the straight runs too....




Regards

Dan

 

[David Taylor]

Dan, that's a pretty good advertisement!

 

[Overseer]

But the GW Models rivet press has a depth stop, so once set up, consistency is guaranteed.

I use a GW models press. I should have bought the one with a bigger throat, but at the time I thought it was too expensive.

Richard

I should have explained that the owner of the modified GW Models press was building a P48 box cab electric with lots of small rivets all over it, in quite thin sheet metal, and he found that the depth stop didn't guarantee the consistency as well as he expected. He does have a possibly over developed passion for rivets. Varying the speed and force of the lever hitting the stop can produce slightly different rivets. Using a drop weight means the same speed and force are applied each strike.

I will see if I can get a photo of the modified press.

 

[Steph Dale]

I'm firmly in favour of the GW press, it's so good I've got both the 4mm and 7mm versions!

One neat trick that the GW can also do is rivet a ready-rolled smokebox. I can't think of another riveter that can do that! (Or circles either, for that matter.)

Dan, that's neat work on that smokebox ring. I've got the same thing to do on my G6. What's the prototype of the loco you're building?

Steph

 

[Dan Randall]

I'm firmly in favour of the GW press, it's so good I've got both the 4mm and 7mm versions!

One neat trick that the GW can also do is rivet a ready-rolled smokebox. I can't think of another riveter that can do that! (Or circles either, for that matter.)

Dan, that's neat work on that smokebox ring. I've got the same thing to do on my G6. What's the prototype of the loco you're building?

Steph

Thanks Steph - The prototype loco is Wantage Tramway No.5 and the model is a 7mm scale (naturally!) project, as serialised in the MRJ a few years ago. Another, as yet, unfinished project....!


Regards

Dan

 

[Steph Dale]

Thanks Steph - The prototype loco is Wantage Tramway No.5 and the model is a 7mm scale (naturally!) project, as serialised in the MRJ a few years ago. Another, as yet, unfinished project....!


Regards

Dan

Oh good call! Charming prototype and I haven't seen that many built.
Steph

 

[Dan Randall]

Oh good call! Charming prototype and I haven't seen that many built.
Steph

Hi Steph - My chum Richard has built one (painted, but just awaiting the transfers I believe), but I haven't been able to persuade him to join WT and post some piccies unfortunately.

It was seeing his No 5 under construction, that made me want to have a go. That was the start of the slippery slope that is 7mm scale, but the clincher was going to Telford with Richard soon after and seeing an unpainted Western cab on the JLTRT stand...!

(With apologies to Dave for the thread hi-jack).


Regards

Dan

 

[SteadyRed]

(With apologies to Dave for the thread hi-jack).

Dan

No problem Dan, I find the chat fascinating, my original has been answered.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to the original question.

Dave

 

[Overseer]

As Dan has requested, a couple of photos of the modified GW Models rivet press.

The alteration to the tool is limited to a single hole drilled and tapped in the upper horizontal. The added vertical rod can be unscrewed and removed to revert back to lever operation. A lighter spring was found to be necessary to lift the punch. The long screw added to the punch holder is to hold the punch down on the brass/nickel silver surface before the weight is dropped - found to improve consistency even more. It is not clear in the first photo but the weight does clear the lever pivot.

 

[Scale7JB]

+ another 1 for the GW 7mm press...

I have been using a metal smith one lent by a friend, but I have a GW version at the top of my shopping list.

I punched out a load of rivets on a smoke box barrel in a perfect line, not something that could easily have been done on the metal smith version, though it does have its place of course..

JB.