S7 area...

[Scale7JB]

Oooooh, we've got our own area, how exciting !

Look forward to plenty of Scale7 chat in here..

JB.

 

[Dog Star]

At the least we shall get to know who lives on the wild side of 7mm  8).


As a starter...  those of us who are members of the S7 Group can buy gauges and jigs for S&C work, in angles of 1:5, 1:6, 1:7 and 1:8  .  What do you do if the crossing angle is either not an integer ratio or is greater than 1:8? ???.  For example:- the natural lead for "C" switches is 1:10 to provide a C10 turnout....  I have thought of asking our Committee if "bespoke" angles can be provided accepting that such might attract a price premium.

regards, Graham

 

[Jordan]

Just popped in to see what's going on... as one at the 'bodging' end of O scale I think I'd better not come back, 'cos you've just lost me completely with that post, DS......... :-[ :vista:

:wave: ;D ;D ;D

 

[adrian]

@JB : hopefully we can show that we are an active bunch, unfortunately I feel as though I've been letting the side down at the moment. I've just been too busy sorting out other higher priority items.

I'd like to start posting some of my MOK 4MT build but rather than update the various forums was planning to put full details on my website and then post links in the forum. But before I do this I  need to sort out my web hosting, I was planning an upgrade to my website but I need to swap servers to get the functionality that I'd like. As I run 3 websites at the moment I'm just working up the courage to get them to swap servers for me. Once that is sorted then I hope I can roll out some updates.

I've just bought a JLTRT 3F so I'm in danger of having more projects on the go. Although a first cursory glance the 3F doesn't look a very S7 friendly kit. The main chassis has the frames and spacers as one etched unit to fold up so it will have to be a cut and shut job with new frame spacers put in, so I'll be interested to know how you get on with your wide frames.

I've also foolishly volunteered to help out with the S7 stand at the York exhibition so will be in the spotlight on the Sunday. If anyone is going then please say hello and make the stand look busy.

I've also got another project slowly fermenting - trying to raise my game to your level of detail. I may have cunning plan that I can guarantee is unique - unfortunately there may be a good reason why nobody's done it before so I've got to build a couple of test beds first to see if it'll work.

@Jordan : don't abandon this area as there are several bodgers in S7, myself being the main one! I switched to S7 because it made building loco's so much easier having the frames that bit wider apart. I couldn't get an Ivatt 2 loco looking right using the "narrow" frames so anyone that gets it looking right using narrow gauge has my admiration.

Regards

Adrian

 

[Eastsidepilot]

Dog Star,

Crossing assembly jigs are available in 1-4 to 1-10 from the S7 stores, now made in paxolin.( doesn't act as a heat sink
Contact Paul Stokes, S7 Stores manager. I'm hoping that they will produce the filing jigs in 1-9 & 1-10 as well otherwise it's a case of producing our own.

Col.


     

 

[7mmMick]

Adrian,

I'm hoping to get to York as I'm only down the road, i'll come and bother you on Sunday for a short time if that's ok  It will be nice to see the progress on the standard tank on here 

Best regards Mick

 

[phileakins]

At the least we shall get to know who lives on the wild side of 7mm  8).


As a starter...  those of us who are members of the S7 Group can buy gauges and jigs for S&C work, in angles of 1:5, 1:6, 1:7 and 1:8  .  What do you do if the crossing angle is either not an integer ratio or is greater than 1:8? ???.  For example:- the natural lead for "C" switches is 1:10 to provide a C10 turnout....  I have thought of asking our Committee if "bespoke" angles can be provided accepting that such might attract a price premium.

regards, Graham

I use a 'Portsdown Model' filing jig for the crossings (only four angles in it but with judicious Templot work they are enough - it's the switch blade that cause me problems, I can't seem to produce two that look the same by bending and filing, although they work and are only acceptable because they will be buried in the ballast and disguised.

So, I know that the Group stores has switch blade jigs and I wonder whether anyone has experience of them?

Secondly, my period is firmly pre-group and should have joggles in both stock rails for the toes of the straight cut switch blades.  I have chickened out and used a set as my joggles look like they were produced by an apprentice blacksmith the morning after a good night before    Anyone got any tips, or know of a jig?

Thanks.

Phil

 

[Scale7JB]

@JB : hopefully we can show that we are an active bunch, unfortunately I feel as though I've been letting the side down at the moment. I've just been too busy sorting out other higher priority items.
Adrian

I think we all need to take a break from it occasionally, if not for work, then some sanity too..

We are quite an active group really, and I think once we start getting test Scale7 test tracks at Major exhibitions like Telford, Kettering and Bristol, the number of new signups to the society will increase quite nicely.

Please please can we have an S7 loop at Telford this year...?!!  :

JB.

 

[Dog Star]

So, I know that the Group stores has switch blade jigs and I wonder whether anyone has experience of them?
Phil

I bought a switch blade jig before I read about S&C practices of the GWR...  and then realised that the filing jig was not going to produce more than one length of switch blade...  or if it does then I do not know how to achieve such variations.  As a result, I now file the switch blades by eye after marking the planing length for the required type of switch blade.  I guess that GWR followers are probably well suited here because there is the GWR S&C Practices bible by the GWSG and there are at least two if not three relevant papers in the proceedings of the Swindon Engineering society.

regards, Graham

 

[phileakins]

Thanks Graham

I do wish the data for researching LCDR track was as accessible!  Accident reports seem to be the only source.

I am taking the York University/NRM Certificate in Railway History this year, with a re-search project for next year.  No prizes for guessing what the topic might be.  ;D

Anyone got anything on joggles?

Incidentally - I believe Brian Lewis (C&L) uses a sanding machine to produce his switch blades.

Phil

 

[Dog Star]

Anyone got anything on joggles?
Phil

Not quite sure what you are expecting as a reply to that question?  (rather like my asking...  got anything on 10' 0" sleepers? ).  However, GWR used joggles in stock rails with straight cut switch rails, something like 1/4" joggle and run out over the planing length of the switch.  If you are interested, possibly as a reference, I can look for the details in the GWSG book.

To make the joggle in 7mm bullhead:- mark the stock rail on the toe side of the joggle, hold rail at right angles to long surface of vice jaws and then bend sharply away from the centre line of the turnout.  Now reverse rail in the vice (top to bottom) with the bend about 30 - 40 thou above the jaws.  Gripping the rail above and tight against the first bend, push the rail to an upright position - the result ought to be that the first bend moves in the direction of the push and leaves a set in the rail.  For GWR devotees the required set is something like 10thou (again, if required I can consult the bible).

regards, Graham

 

[Dikitriki]

Incidentally - I believe Brian Lewis (C&L) uses a sanding machine to produce his switch blades.

Phil

He mills them.

Richard

 

[Eastsidepilot]

I have used the S7 Groups switch blade filing jig quite succesfully and the majority of point & crossing work I have produced has been LNER orientated. Switch blades are really quite delicate pieces of work and need to be shaped and honed carefully to get the right profile. The filing jig only really gives you a rough to work on further and refine.
JB and myself, working on the area group layout, have found the need to hone the blades to the correct profile in S7 to avoid derailments. Spending time on this has made a hell of a difference to the running.
If anyone is interested the North Eastern Railway Association can supply copies of Standard Railway Equipment-Permanent Way, 1926. These are drawings and specifications for 95lb Bullhead track prepared by the LNER North Eastern Area in consultation with a committee formed by the Ministry of Transport and involved parties from the "Big Four". All this info was used after 1926 for new works not only by the LNER but also the LMSR & SR. The GWR opting to go there own way as usual 
Col. 

 

[adrian]

To make the joggle in 7mm bullhead:- mark the stock rail on the toe side of the joggle, hold rail at right angles to long surface of vice jaws and then bend sharply away from the centre line of the turnout. [snip]

I used a slightly different method. I used a couple of flat steel strips, one either side of the rail, one to the left of the position for the joggle, the other to the right. All were placed in the jaws of a vice which was then tightened hard. The joggle was formed as it was squashed between the two steel strips - it's easier to do it than describe it!
Adrian

 

[phileakins]

Thanks chaps.

It's the bend in the vice method which doesn't give me the subtle joggle I'm looking for Graham, and I find very difficult to control.  I haven't tried the 'two bars method' (not, I take it, The Red Lion and The Anchor, which I have tried, often!) so I'll give it a go.

I agree with eastsidepilot about switch blades, particularly the longer length switches,  not easy filed freehand. Mine seem to work, just don't look 'exact' enough.  I've got a very old Unimat SL machine set up as a vertical drill/mill, I wonder whether I could use that?  I'll have a try.  (Sorry, thinking out loud.)

I do have a copy of the Standard Railway Equipment-Permanent Way, 1926 reproduction together with a couple of the Permenant Way Institute books, but nothing goes back far enough.

Anyway, enough waffle - thanks for the ideas.

Phil

PS I know all about 10 inch sleepers ........

 

[Simon Dunkley]

I used a slightly different method. I used a couple of flat steel strips, one either side of the rail, one to the left of the position for the joggle, the other to the right. All were placed in the jaws of a vice which was then tightened hard. The joggle was formed as it was squashed between the two steel strips - it's easier to do it than describe it!
Adrian

I have read - but not tried - of the idea of fixing the two steel strips to opposing faces of a hinge, to maintain the correct alignment, etc.

If anyone tries this, please let us know if it works!