S7'ing Dapol RTR wagons

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Mick has alluded to another "feature" of using Slater's wheels with Exactoscale underframes and I agree with his approach to (a) adjusting the length of the Slater's axle (no longer need the pin-points and to enable the axles to be inserted / removed without splaying the axleguards too much) and (b) restricting end float (7BA washers, preferably machined washers as stamped versions introduce non-reproducibility).

Ian (@Ian_C), what is the problem or problems that you have encountered?
 

West Junction

Western Thunderer
You can always use the Slaters bearings. Just cut the ends off so that they match the length of the Exactoscale bearings. Just drill a hole in a piece of plasticard, the diameter matching the Slaters bearing and the thickness of the plasticard matching the length of the Exactoscale bearing. Place bearing in hole and slice off end with piercing saw. To open up the Exactoscale bearing I found it easiest to hold the bearing in a pin chuck.

Peter
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
Or just use the Slaters bearings as they come, set up as usual and soldered into the carrier so the pin points control the end float. There is plenty of slop in the bearings to cope with the angle of the axles changing as the suspension moves. My MMP 16T mineral was done this way a few years ago, amongst quite a few others.
 

S7BcSR

Western Thunderer
Or easier still, use the C&L bearings specially produced for Slater's wheels. C&L Code E7BE 202A Wagon Bearings in packs of 12 and as stated on label "Use Slater's wheels (I/D 1.75mm). I have been using these for 3 or so years, maybe longer as time goes so quick. I don't know if C&L are still producing them as I have a stock.

However, word of warning - I opened a pack last Friday at the club to finish an underframe and this pack didn't do what it said on the pack - these were the other bearings for Exactoscale/Alan Gibson wheels.

Rob
 

Ian_C

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the advice chaps. I ended up spacing the Slaters bearing inboard to control the side play against the wheel boss, and as suggested, reducing the length of the axle and bearing to make them easier to insert without putting a set in the W-irons. Pics and diagrams should explain all. You lose the pin point and effectively end up with a 7mm version of the current 4mm Exactoscale (C&L) arrangement.

Can't say that I noticed the C&L Code E7BE 202A Wagon Bearings S7BcSR, but it is a bonkers website to navigate. Could have missed them. bearing carrier assembly.jpgaxle end modification.jpg end result.jpg bearing spacer.jpg
axle length diagram.jpg
installed bearing diagram.jpg
 

PaxtonP4

Western Thunderer
By putting your spacer on the bearing rather than the wheel means that if you want to remove the wheels at some time you will need to bend the W iron much more than if you had put the spacer on the wheel. I always put the spacer on the wheel for this reason.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
After seeing the photographs above.

Rather than bend the W irons to remove/install the wheels, could you not make a retainer plate (onto which the axle box with an enlarged hole to allow for axle movement is mounted) to screw into the bottom of the W iron which can be removed to allow the wheels to drop out?
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
By putting your spacer on the bearing rather than the wheel means that if you want to remove the wheels at some time you will need to bend the W iron much more than if you had put the spacer on the wheel. I always put the spacer on the wheel for this reason.
The other, possibly more important, reason for putting a spacer or washer on the wheel/axle is to reduce friction and wear. The Slaters wheel centres are made of glass filled nylon which is abrasive and will wear down the brass bearing over time. A washer fixed to the wheel will avoid this, and adding a loose washer will further reduce the friction.
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
All
I wrote to Dapol a few days ago to enquire as to whether they did S7 wheels as exchange items for the narrow gauge wheels normally fitted in the retail product as Richard Webster used to do. A few hours later I got a reply from Kevin Grindley (Sales Admin Manager) to say:
'We still do the same Scaleseven wheel swop so if you care to send in the wheels we will replace them with the Scalesevens f.o.c.'
I sent 18 FS axles on Wednesday and received 18 S7 back today free of charge. Excellent turnaround time but be aware that they only have 3-hole wheels - no 8-spoke or split-spoke wheels are available.
Dave
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
Richard Webster (Lionheart) did supply spoked S7 wheelsets. I'm just highlighting the availability. Not quite sure what your comment is supposed to mean.
Dave
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Dave,
by contrast I have asked at the Dapol stand at Telford, Reading and Kettering and received the 'Don't know mate, just go away' treatment.
Simon
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
Perhaps that's an indication of the significance of 'who you ask'. I asked their 'support' person rather than a salesman and got a result.
Dave
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
The point is the lack of integration. The salesmen are the point of contact with the public and they didn't know (or care).
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Richard Webster (Lionheart) did supply spoked S7 wheelsets. I'm just highlighting the availability. Not quite sure what your comment is supposed to mean.
Dave
No hidden meaning, just good news! Thanks for the info...

JB.
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
The point is the lack of integration. The salesmen are the point of contact with the public and they didn't know (or care).
A situation not unique to Dapol! When I asked at Reading before Christmas I was told that they didn't have any with them so I was quietly optimistic.
Dave
 

Caggers

Western Thunderer
To reopen this topic I have just received two exchange sets of S7 wheels for a couple of dapol wagons.

However, they do not seem to fit. The original axles had brass bearings which were free in the axle boxes, but when I try to fit the S7 wheels and axls they are too wide to fit between the bearings. And without the bearings the pin points are trying to locate is a rather large hole.

Any advice for fitting? or am I missing something obvious?
 
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