7mm Scale 7 MOK 9F in Spain

Discussion in 'Area 51' started by Len Cattley, 2 June 2020.

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  1. markjj

    markjj Western Thunderer

    I use a pair of these to close mine up and a lot of other things to. I originally brought them to push brass bushes into JLTRT diesel resin parts for which they are perfect. The jaws close parallel and dont mark the material as they are smooth.
    They can be found on Ebay if anyone is interested.
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. Kev T

    Kev T Western Thunderer

    I have 2 pair of scissors. One is a fine surgical scissor off Ebay,which works well when the etch lines are tight, the other is a scissor made by Xuron, between them I can cut most etches without distortion.
    Kev
     
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  3. David Boorman

    David Boorman Member

    My preference for removing from etch and also removing the 'tags' is the Lindstrom 'ultra flush' cutters - by far the best cutters in terms of cleanliness of cut BUT rather/very expensive! To me a worthwhile investment - there are a number of sizes and shapes in the Lindstrom range. Lindstrom also have a 'flush' range which are good but just don't have that final cleanliness of cut that the ultra flush deliver.
    David
     
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  4. Max Midnight

    Max Midnight Active Member

    Have just looked these up....glad I had the defib and oxygen nearby when I saw the price! :eek:
    Probably a good investment if you make lots of kits but for occasional use I'll have to stick with my lump hammer and cold chisel. :oops:
     
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  5. eastsidepilot

    eastsidepilot Western Thunderer

    I use a mini drill with a diamond disc cutter which can also be used to clean the edge up as well.

    Col.
     
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  6. lankytank

    lankytank Western Thunderer

    Have a number of pairs of Lindstrom cutters, various, yellow handled obtained from an ex-employer (just realised that I've now had these for 38 years....!! :eek:) & a 'matched' pair of white handle cutters & pair of pliers (obtained from one of those secondhand 'toolmen' that one occasionally comes across on markets) that I managed to pick up for a fiver the two - no, he didn't know what he'd got - no idea how old these are, I've had them since about the turn of the century.

    Can only say that you gets what's you pays for - the only signs of wear are slightly polished handles & the blacking agent has worn of the 'blades' in parts - still as sharp as the day I got 'em.

    :thumbs: :thumbs:
     
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  7. Lancastrian

    Lancastrian Western Thunderer

    I follow Eastsidepilot's lead, but just an ordinary carborundum slitting disc in a Proxxon mini drill.

    Ian
     
  8. oldravendale

    oldravendale Western Thunderer

    I've tried this and can't make it work for me. The edges come out wavy and with occasional dinks and depressions. I've also seen sanding drums used but same problem for me. However I know that there are many who make it work well for themselves. I'll stick with files, but as with all things it's horses for courses.

    Brian
     
  9. markjj

    markjj Western Thunderer

    I use a pair of medical scissors known as operating scissors sharp blunt. I got mine from Tesco originally they used to cost about £4 in their first aid bit in the bigger stores. I haven't been able to find them where I now live but then most of our Tescos are tiny compared to the big English ones...
    This is a link to them on Ebay

    Range Of Surgical Scissors Dental Cutting / Dressing Medical Laboratory Tools CE | eBay

    I find the art is to cut the fret where you cant get in with the scissors they leave very little distortion and I have used to same 2 pairs for close on 7 years now. I have cut a great many brass and nickel silver bits out with them.
     
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  10. markjj

    markjj Western Thunderer

    Going back to the tender rocking beam instructions I had a look through a few of my other MOK kit instructions and found this in what are the worst of Dave's instructions. These are from the Stanier tender included with the 8f kits but give the best detailed instruction as to how to do the rocking beams. It may be too late for now but maybe useful if anyone else finds this thread in future. The page is copyrighted to MOK but I'm sure Dave wont mind me sharing it if it helps anyone.
    20200611_083408.jpg
     
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  11. Len Cattley

    Len Cattley Western Thunderer

    What are these called Mark?

    Len
     
  12. adrian

    adrian Flying Squad

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  13. markjj

    markjj Western Thunderer

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  14. Len Cattley

    Len Cattley Western Thunderer

    I bought my from Germany, it's in Euro's and can delivered next week.

    Len
     
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  15. Len Cattley

    Len Cattley Western Thunderer

    Can anybody help me with the instructions as it's not clear on some of the parts.
    15919489273026433893727338276196.jpg
    Parts 068, 069 it doesn't show where they go. 15919490975034155348372344262664.jpg also where does Chassis Spreader 15919493164931685261417003804656.jpg go, as I can't se it on the instructions 102, 103, 104?
    Len
     
  16. daifly

    daifly Western Thunderer

    Look at your upper image - it's in the picture behind the leading axle holes!
    Dave
     
  17. eastsidepilot

    eastsidepilot Western Thunderer

    I can see your confusion, in the upper image parts 102-104 have an arrow pointing to them but they are marked as 068-069 ?:confused: these are not in the image :confused:
    Col.
     
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  18. Cliff Williams

    Cliff Williams Western Thunderer

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  19. SimonT

    SimonT Western Thunderer

    Your two parts numbered 069 on the fret are numbered 039 in the 9G instructions and are fitted to the underside of the footplate as one of the first steps of the build on page 1 of the tender instructions.
     
  20. Len Cattley

    Len Cattley Western Thunderer

    They only mention them on page 16 on the BR 1B/C instructions, I realise where they go now, still haven't found where 068 goes yet.

    Len