Scale7 JB Workbench.
- Thread starter Scale7JB
- Start date
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
One of my pet hates with buffer beams is sometimes having to guess where they need to be in relation to valances, especially when they don't reach all the way to the edges of the footplate like those on the D16.
Tack them down, check, add heat to remove because they're not quite centre, solder spreads, even more to clean up before you can reattach and try again.
These are self locating.
JB.
Tack them down, check, add heat to remove because they're not quite centre, solder spreads, even more to clean up before you can reattach and try again.
These are self locating.
JB.
P A D
Western Thunderer
Hi JB,
It looks like you have designed a kit that is up there with Finney 7 and MOK. Superb!
One question though. Why have you included the boiler bands when these days, more and more builders advocate leaving them off to be added as transfers at the painting stage? I don't know this prototype so this may be a daft question and there may be a reason why they have to be on.
Cheers,
Peter
PS, when you have a minute, knock up a Fairburn 2 6 4.
It looks like you have designed a kit that is up there with Finney 7 and MOK. Superb!
One question though. Why have you included the boiler bands when these days, more and more builders advocate leaving them off to be added as transfers at the painting stage? I don't know this prototype so this may be a daft question and there may be a reason why they have to be on.
Cheers,
Peter
PS, when you have a minute, knock up a Fairburn 2 6 4.
7mmMick
Western Thunderer
JB has certainly invested in some of our Quantum Solder. Neat design of the smokebox and the three rods to line everything up.
Simon
I echo Simon's comments here pal, this really looks the business, the thinking behind design is spot on and I like the fact you're overcoming all those pet hates we share. I have to agree with Peter though I'm not at all a fan of the etched on boiler band. I like the rebate on the main boiler to add the bands and if they're to be half etch and don't look too lumpy then that's ideal but the firebox one IMHO is too pronounced. That said it's no biggy as a few strokes of a file would see it off and let's be honest we all have our own preferences.
Hi JB,
It looks like you have designed a kit that is up there with Finney 7 and MOK. Superb!
.
Absolutely
Really excited to see this quirky prototype come together, it's gonna make a cracking kit pal
Cheers
Mick
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Thankyou chaps..
Thanks Simon, I've really not tidied these up that much as it's the speed build. Things will be a lot cleaner on the final test build after all the amendments. I think building with N/S helps our cause greatly.
Peter, compliment indeed! This is kinda years of building kits and thinking that certain things could have been done to make the build far easier with only a minute or two's thinking outside the box at the design stage.
With regard the boiler bands, it's purely for ease of build. I've tried to make everything self locating so that everything fits into the right place and square first time. I have to admit it's an idea I have borrowed from Big Jim's fantastic kits. I've never built a loco without putting boiler bands on during the build, so I guess it's purely ignorance on my part. What is the reason for adding later, simply the thickness of material or using transfer paper to add lined versions? I have previously used the Slaters Phosphor Bronze strips where kit bands have been too thick. These bands will be 0.2mm.
I may stick the boiler bands on today as I need to check the lengths, but the ones in the kit of parts have ears for the tightening bolts. I'm worried that it's getting a bit sparse under such a highly pitched boiler. It will have the crank axle, connecting rods and slide bars, but it may need the eccentrics and expansions links too..!
JB.
Thanks Simon, I've really not tidied these up that much as it's the speed build. Things will be a lot cleaner on the final test build after all the amendments. I think building with N/S helps our cause greatly.
Peter, compliment indeed! This is kinda years of building kits and thinking that certain things could have been done to make the build far easier with only a minute or two's thinking outside the box at the design stage.
With regard the boiler bands, it's purely for ease of build. I've tried to make everything self locating so that everything fits into the right place and square first time. I have to admit it's an idea I have borrowed from Big Jim's fantastic kits. I've never built a loco without putting boiler bands on during the build, so I guess it's purely ignorance on my part. What is the reason for adding later, simply the thickness of material or using transfer paper to add lined versions? I have previously used the Slaters Phosphor Bronze strips where kit bands have been too thick. These bands will be 0.2mm.
I may stick the boiler bands on today as I need to check the lengths, but the ones in the kit of parts have ears for the tightening bolts. I'm worried that it's getting a bit sparse under such a highly pitched boiler. It will have the crank axle, connecting rods and slide bars, but it may need the eccentrics and expansions links too..!
JB.
P A D
Western Thunderer
Hi JB,
Like you I always build with the boiler bands on. However, the recent T3 build and the D11 have and will be painted by Warren Haywood respectively. He specifically asked me to leave them off on the basis that they are usually over scale in thickness, and he prefers to apply his own hand made lining directly onto the boiler. I didn't spot that the bands on the boiler are actually grooves for locating the bands al la Big Jim. Great idea for getting them on straight, but again for those wishing to leave them off, it means they have the grooves to deal with. Something to consider if you are going to commercialised it, but for a one off for yourself it's no problem.
Cheers,
Peter
Like you I always build with the boiler bands on. However, the recent T3 build and the D11 have and will be painted by Warren Haywood respectively. He specifically asked me to leave them off on the basis that they are usually over scale in thickness, and he prefers to apply his own hand made lining directly onto the boiler. I didn't spot that the bands on the boiler are actually grooves for locating the bands al la Big Jim. Great idea for getting them on straight, but again for those wishing to leave them off, it means they have the grooves to deal with. Something to consider if you are going to commercialised it, but for a one off for yourself it's no problem.
Cheers,
Peter
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Thanks Mick,
I've definitely got a lot of amendments for the chassis etch, though I'm trying desperately not to need to re-do artwork for the body sheet. However, if I do need to bite the bullet, I'll make the firebox band seperate, I'll admit it is a bit clunky and difficult to remove because of the beading around the edges.
JB.
I've definitely got a lot of amendments for the chassis etch, though I'm trying desperately not to need to re-do artwork for the body sheet. However, if I do need to bite the bullet, I'll make the firebox band seperate, I'll admit it is a bit clunky and difficult to remove because of the beading around the edges.
JB.
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
I'm going to come clean, and I show this with the massive caveat that this is still the faulty etch with a through etch rather than rear etch, so I got the curves as close as I could without having something to truly form against, hence the wonky footplate in the shot of the cab.
Long and short of it, Richard Carr 'does not' owe me a tenner, and Mickoo's buddy, Captain cock-up popped by.
The foot plate is too long by around 3.5mm which puts everything out of kilter, though I have found the error easy to fix). Also the shelf that the smokebox sits on is too low. Took me a while to find out why, but looks like the frames aren't deep enough around that area, and that has passed through into affecting one or two other areas (this may take a little longer as I need to keep an eye out for a knock-on effect).
But overall, it does look like a D16/3.
JB.
Long and short of it, Richard Carr 'does not' owe me a tenner, and Mickoo's buddy, Captain cock-up popped by.
The foot plate is too long by around 3.5mm which puts everything out of kilter, though I have found the error easy to fix). Also the shelf that the smokebox sits on is too low. Took me a while to find out why, but looks like the frames aren't deep enough around that area, and that has passed through into affecting one or two other areas (this may take a little longer as I need to keep an eye out for a knock-on effect).
But overall, it does look like a D16/3.
JB.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
It certainly looks like one, so now you just need to fix all the issues, I won't laugh to much about the footplate, I'v made enough stupid cockups of my own just as bad as that.
Richard
Richard
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Well, purely in the name of research, I have just tried to find why the discrepancy has crept in. In measuring the length of the top edge of the valance including all of the curves etc..
TurboCad shows a dimension of 226.02mm
Quad shows a dimension of 222.81mm
I really don't know why, but explains why I was absolutely sure that the original dimension was correct. However the depth of the frames really was my error. Nearly 2mm out on the depth, i.e. should be 2mm deeper.
JB.
TurboCad shows a dimension of 226.02mm
Quad shows a dimension of 222.81mm
I really don't know why, but explains why I was absolutely sure that the original dimension was correct. However the depth of the frames really was my error. Nearly 2mm out on the depth, i.e. should be 2mm deeper.
JB.
7mmMick
Western Thunderer
Well it really looks the part mate, top effort for a first test build
I use self adhesive copper tape during the build on unlined locos and have left them off for lined loco's as the painter can add them with a home made transfer. Just my own preference really as I think kit offerings often look over scale.
Mick
I use self adhesive copper tape during the build on unlined locos and have left them off for lined loco's as the painter can add them with a home made transfer. Just my own preference really as I think kit offerings often look over scale.
Mick
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Scrap that, I've found out why. Bad housekeeping on my part.
Where the curves had intersected i hadn't tidied up the tails and so they overlap.
Over 8 joins between curves, thats where the discrepancy is..
JB.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
I agree, the thought which has gone into the design of the kit really pays off and is evident from the ease of the build. All kits should be designed like this leaving little to chance.
Excellent work JB.
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Thanks Dave!! Appreciate that.
Now let's get it sorted......and then think about a Finescale version.
It would be good to get a few people's opinions on what my plan is to narrow the frames enough for F/S. My fear is that one will always be able to see the narrow frames under the boiler with respect to how the front and rear frames fit together.
JB.
Now let's get it sorted......and then think about a Finescale version.
It would be good to get a few people's opinions on what my plan is to narrow the frames enough for F/S. My fear is that one will always be able to see the narrow frames under the boiler with respect to how the front and rear frames fit together.
JB.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Nice work Jonathan, and it just shows even the most well thought out design needs a test build. It looks superb - a credit to your design and construction skills. Good idea on an F/S option, that will open up a market and at least might cover your costs...
Now! What other loco kits are you going to design? !!
Regards
Tony
Now! What other loco kits are you going to design? !!
Regards
Tony
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Thankyou Tony!
Yep, I've heard many a story of kits going to market without test-builds, but I guess if it's a simple kit....
Well that's the best question I've had all day. I do have a few things on the virtual workbench. A Y4, an N7/3, and surprisingly a LMS 42ft GUV!
Any other suggestions? Answers on a postcard..
JB.
Yep, I've heard many a story of kits going to market without test-builds, but I guess if it's a simple kit....
Well that's the best question I've had all day. I do have a few things on the virtual workbench. A Y4, an N7/3, and surprisingly a LMS 42ft GUV!
Any other suggestions? Answers on a postcard..
JB.
