Scale7 JB Workbench.

[richard carr]

Small drill bits are just about impossible to sharpen, the main sharpening systems only go do to 3mm.

What a shame that all that smokebox detail will never be seen

Richard

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

Thanks Adrian,

I wonder if anyone has any tips (pardon pun) for sharpening small drill bits. Have so many now that would struggle with a block of Lurpack.

JB.

Have you tried one of these? It’s a Wishbone drill sharpener which I use to keep my drills sharp. It works on drills down to 0.5mm but you do need to get the drill exactly positioned and orientated, magnification required! I also use a proper oilstone which gives a longer cutting stroke than the small stone supplied with the tool.



You can also retrieve broken drills if you square off the end with a cutting disc.

I bought mine years ago but a quick Google search suggests that Expo drills are the supplier now.

Ian.

 

[Scale7JB]

Morning JB,

You have done a very neat job of cutting out that hole in that rear smoke box cover, I cannot see where you started with the blade unless it's that slight blemish in that alignment slot?

Martyn.

Thanks Martyn, I wasn't too worried had it gone wrong as I could cut another one out using the original as a template.

I started the cut bottom right hand corner.



There was a small amount of filing afterwards to ensure the tubeplate outer edge was a perfect fit in the hole.

JB.

 

[Scale7JB]

What a shame that all that smokebox detail will never be seen

Richard

That was a challenge wasn't it?

JB.

 

[Scale7JB]

Have you tried one of these? It’s a Wishbone drill sharpener which I use to keep my drills sharp. It works on drills down to 0.5mm but you do need to get the drill exactly positioned and orientated, magnification required! I also use a proper oilstone which gives a longer cutting stroke than the small stone supplied with the tool.

View attachment 121209

You can also retrieve broken drills if you square off the end with a cutting disc.

I bought mine years ago but a quick Google search suggests that Expo drills are the supplier now.

Ian.

That's great Ian, I'll take a look at one of those.

JB.

 

[Scale7JB]

Next up a little break from all things smokebox. Though I did cut out a smokebox ring, and fitted the blower ring to the blast pipe.

The front splasher tops weren't quite fit for purpose so the back curved half needed to be cut from sheet and formed. A lot easier to do than you'd imagine and looks ten times better.



JB.

 

[john lewsey]

Nice work as always John

 

[Scale7JB]

Nice work as always John

Thanks John, nice to get into some kit building after all the drawing on the D16.

JB.

 

[john lewsey]

I'm sure I've not done this much modeling in ages. Your D16 looks great as well
John

 

[Scale7JB]

Thanks again, more than happy to sell you a kit

JB.

 

[Scale7JB]

Onwards with the main event in terms of the smokebox.

First off the whitemetal door casting requires all of the detail to be taken off. Thankfully I remembered to pilot drill the centre of the door first.



Then the task of making up the hinge straps from 1.5mm strip wrapped around small bore brass tube. The strip was actually an offcut from an old etch. Always handy to keep the good scrap etch.



I had to work out a way to ensure a 7mm gap between the hinge straps. A bit of sacrificial tube was the way forward.



After that, soldering to the whitemetal blank with an 18w iron. I resolutely use powerflow flux for brass work, but it really seems not to like working with whitemetal, so a bit of basic phosphoric flux for this job. A small amount of jiggery pokery, but got there in the end.



JB.

 

[Scale7JB]

I seem to have forgotten to take pictures of this part of the process, but hinges on..

Dart and handles next.



Not had the chance to get much done last day or so, so nearly up to date. There's a giant Lego city in the way of the desk. Hopefully be cleared up today

JB.

 

[Len Cattley]

I like watching your posts on your loco's especially your smoke boxes, I like seeing the inside.

Len

 

[Scale7JB]

I like watching your posts on your loco's especially your smoke boxes, I like seeing the inside.

Len

Thanks Len.

Only got Colin Dowling ( @eastsidepilot ) to thank for it really. Was his concept a long long time ago.

JB.

 

[Scale7JB]

Dart and locking bars.



JB.

 

[Scale7JB]

J15 smokebox

JB.

 

[Lancastrian]

J15 smokebox

JB.

I also use Powerflow flux, but haven't had any issues so far in soldering brass to whitemetal. I pre-tin the brass with high temp solder, a goodly amount of Powerflow between the brass /whitemetal items and then a dab of 70 degree solder with a 50w iron. That is how I've recently fitted whitemetal cylinder/valve castings and sandboxes to a loco.

Ian

 

[Scale7JB]

I also use Powerflow flux, but haven't had any issues so far in soldering brass to whitemetal. I pre-tin the brass with high temp solder, a goodly amount of Powerflow between the brass /whitemetal items and then a dab of 70 degree solder with a 50w iron. That is how I've recently fitted whitemetal cylinder/valve castings and sandboxes to a loco.

Ian

That may be the problem. I'm soldering smaller parts than big cylinder castings that I wouldn't go near with a 50w. I'm more than sure I would have melted pools of whitemetal on the smokebox door and fine edges of the tender flares with a big iron. The liquid flux may be that bit more active at lower temperatures.

Don't get me wrong, the powerflow will make the solder flow and stick but if you give it a big tug it does pop off on the 'brass' side. Maybe I'm just erring on the side of caution.

JB.

 

[john lewsey]

Funny that I've been a plumbing and heating engineer all my working life and I hate power flux. Come to that I hated plumbing as well
John

 

[Scale7JB]

Thankfully the Lego has been packed away, and I can get to my desk again.

Use a perfectly good 'piano front' casting? Why would anyone do that?



JB.