rosspeacock
Modelling on a £1200 table.
Looks fantastic Simon.. great work..
Ross..
Ross..
Simon's workbench
- Thread starter Simon
- Start date
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Very nice Simon, but whilst you have the brushes out, being above solebar level, the vertical faces of the concrete end platforms ought to be bauxite too. There may be exceptions of course, but a quick trawl through Paul Bartletts fantastic web site should provide plenty of evidence to support this....
BR Brake van diag 1/504 CAO CAP ZTO ZTQ ZDB ZSR ZTP
Regards
Dan
Simon
Flying Squad
Thanks Dan
I had come to the same conclusion after I'd finished covering it and the paint had dried!
I will reinstate it when I brush paint more body colour shades over everything. I also think the concrete platform surface ought to be slightly concretish in colour, albeit covered in crud.
Then I need some transfers, I wonder if "Onebits" are getting some ready for their new brake van kit, I may email them to find out.
Simon
Dave Bowden
Western Thunderer
Hi Simon
What about Northern Fine Scale? They are about to bring out a 1/32 scale BR Brake van and I would have expected transfers to be available for it.
I know you also have a GWR Toad Van and having bought a set of GWR Wagon transfers from Walsall Model Industries at Bakewell this year to try out, even they are supposedly 10mm they are actually closer to 1/32 scale than 10mm, they are blown up from Bill Parker's WEP range.
On their transfer sheet there are 'Park Royal & Old Oak Common, Bordesley Junc and Banbury. If you would like any measurements taken then just ask.
Dave
What about Northern Fine Scale? They are about to bring out a 1/32 scale BR Brake van and I would have expected transfers to be available for it.
I know you also have a GWR Toad Van and having bought a set of GWR Wagon transfers from Walsall Model Industries at Bakewell this year to try out, even they are supposedly 10mm they are actually closer to 1/32 scale than 10mm, they are blown up from Bill Parker's WEP range.
On their transfer sheet there are 'Park Royal & Old Oak Common, Bordesley Junc and Banbury. If you would like any measurements taken then just ask.
Dave
Simon
Flying Squad
Hi Dave
Thanks for that, I hadn't really twigged that Walsall did any transfers. My Toad is already lettered, transfers (pressfix so no carrier film) done by Peter Blackham whose work is superb when you can get it.
"Onebits" is the name Northern Finescale give to their transfers, they are done or commissioned by David Morgan Kirby in Canada (part of Northern Finescale) and although they are waterslide they are very good quality and very easy to use. Probably my favourite of the waterslide types I have used so far in G1.
Simon
Simon
Flying Squad
The B8 turnout required for the re-designed yard at Launceston Road has in the last two evenings made startling rapid progress, certainly by my standards
Awaiting some more slide rail chairs and other odds from Cliff before it can be finished, another evening should see the check rails added and then the new bits will have arrived.
I have also used the lathe again and have successfully ScaleOneified some Slaters spoked wagon wheels for the late surviving coal wagon.
Still so much left to do...
Simon
Awaiting some more slide rail chairs and other odds from Cliff before it can be finished, another evening should see the check rails added and then the new bits will have arrived.
I have also used the lathe again and have successfully ScaleOneified some Slaters spoked wagon wheels for the late surviving coal wagon.
Still so much left to do...
Simon
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Simon
Flying Squad
One reason that my B6 looks so huge is that it is in fact a B8
Dave, wing rails apart, I followed your earlier (2013) advice on the order in which I positioned the various rails and found the whole thing much easier as a consequence, so thank you very much for that too!
Simon
Dave, wing rails apart, I followed your earlier (2013) advice on the order in which I positioned the various rails and found the whole thing much easier as a consequence, so thank you very much for that too!
Simon
Simon
Flying Squad
Thank you Fraser.
Today, trying to keep to a logical path, I turned my attention to the C10 in the yard. First off I drilled, pinned and soldered the crossing rails together for mechanical strength and electrical continuity. Miles away from the precision on some threads around here, I broke three drill bits in the process but I got it done.
I next bit the bullet and tackled the job I find hardest, making and fitting the tiebar. First picture shows the basic components formed and attached to the switch rails.
Then the fiddliest bit, the insulating boltybits. I have also extended the drive rod and the point "timbers" either side of it, my idea being to fix both a lever and the microswitch to them. You can see that there is only one bolt fitted, this is because the other one failed (you can see the two bits) as I had "waisted" it too much where I superglue the cotton and made it too weak. I didn't have the energy to make a replacement today.
It's getting there....
Today, trying to keep to a logical path, I turned my attention to the C10 in the yard. First off I drilled, pinned and soldered the crossing rails together for mechanical strength and electrical continuity. Miles away from the precision on some threads around here, I broke three drill bits in the process but I got it done.
I next bit the bullet and tackled the job I find hardest, making and fitting the tiebar. First picture shows the basic components formed and attached to the switch rails.
Then the fiddliest bit, the insulating boltybits. I have also extended the drive rod and the point "timbers" either side of it, my idea being to fix both a lever and the microswitch to them. You can see that there is only one bolt fitted, this is because the other one failed (you can see the two bits) as I had "waisted" it too much where I superglue the cotton and made it too weak. I didn't have the energy to make a replacement today.
It's getting there....
Simon
Flying Squad
And as light relief I carried on bodging away at the signal box. Current work consists of inserting pieces, adding epoxy strengthening fillets inside joints and generally trying to achieve a square structure and plane surfaces on the "brickwork".
This unholy mess shows the non staircase side wall being held flat and square after a piece of plastikard had been forced between the operating floor and the end to remove a concave section. Epoxy was liberally run into the joint under the floor to hold it all in position. First shot sideways on.
Right way up, also showing large bracing strut between front and rear walls.
Next job "underneath" are two diagonal struts from corner to corner, to be followed by another large section bracing the structure from sidewall to sidewall. I am not modelling the locking gear!!
It may yet work....
Simon
This unholy mess shows the non staircase side wall being held flat and square after a piece of plastikard had been forced between the operating floor and the end to remove a concave section. Epoxy was liberally run into the joint under the floor to hold it all in position. First shot sideways on.
Right way up, also showing large bracing strut between front and rear walls.
Next job "underneath" are two diagonal struts from corner to corner, to be followed by another large section bracing the structure from sidewall to sidewall. I am not modelling the locking gear!!
It may yet work....
Simon
Simon
Flying Squad
Tonight I have finished the tiebar and cut the extended timbers about so that the microswitch that will change the crossing polarity is "built in" to the turnout. The wiring will run around the bottom edges of the timbers and then be run up the turnout under the timbering.
The next (and trickiest) job is to build a point lever and mechanism that will sit over the drive rod, operating on the pin formed by the up ending of the rod through the tiebar end. It needs to have an over centre spring and if I can build something that works I'll be very pleased (and surprised!) I want to replicate the "modern" type of lever rather than the McKnee style of earlier years.
I may be gone a while....
Simon
The next (and trickiest) job is to build a point lever and mechanism that will sit over the drive rod, operating on the pin formed by the up ending of the rod through the tiebar end. It needs to have an over centre spring and if I can build something that works I'll be very pleased (and surprised!) I want to replicate the "modern" type of lever rather than the McKnee style of earlier years.
I may be gone a while....
Simon
Simon
Flying Squad
Not quite there yet, but I think it is achievable.
Put in a brass base plate on the "RH timber" with pivot rod for a crank and and "end stop" for a spring, cut out a crank with "ear" for other end of spring, fitted together and tried it.
This way is fine, but is"easier" as the spring in the microswitch is also "helping" at the bottom of the picture.
This way nearly works, in fact it does work if you hold down the crank end so that the"ear" is in the same plane as the spring stop.
Here is a view showing the mis-match in "height" of the spring stop and ear on the crank.
The other problem is that when looked at in plan, the spring stop is positioned off centre of the spring's horizontal travel.
I think that if I correct these two issues I may have the basis of a working system. The slot in the lower arm of the crank is for the base of the actual point lever to fit in to.
Not today though - goodnight!
Simon
Put in a brass base plate on the "RH timber" with pivot rod for a crank and and "end stop" for a spring, cut out a crank with "ear" for other end of spring, fitted together and tried it.
This way is fine, but is"easier" as the spring in the microswitch is also "helping" at the bottom of the picture.
This way nearly works, in fact it does work if you hold down the crank end so that the"ear" is in the same plane as the spring stop.
Here is a view showing the mis-match in "height" of the spring stop and ear on the crank.
The other problem is that when looked at in plan, the spring stop is positioned off centre of the spring's horizontal travel.
I think that if I correct these two issues I may have the basis of a working system. The slot in the lower arm of the crank is for the base of the actual point lever to fit in to.
Not today though - goodnight!
Simon
Simon
Flying Squad
Success
Long story short, two steps backwards half forwards etc, the final working set up has the spring further compressed and the set up is given a bias to counteract the spring action of the microswitch.
The next stage is to build the pivoting lever section, which will also put a "lid" on the spring to contain it and keep the weather out. My idea is to fully contain the spring so that it can be kept lubricated, probably packed with grease, to avoid rusting. How long the whole system will last in use and outside I don't know, but everything could be replaced if necessary.
I'm pretty pleased with the result, shunting trucks in the garden is getting closer.....
Simon
Long story short, two steps backwards half forwards etc, the final working set up has the spring further compressed and the set up is given a bias to counteract the spring action of the microswitch.
The next stage is to build the pivoting lever section, which will also put a "lid" on the spring to contain it and keep the weather out. My idea is to fully contain the spring so that it can be kept lubricated, probably packed with grease, to avoid rusting. How long the whole system will last in use and outside I don't know, but everything could be replaced if necessary.
I'm pretty pleased with the result, shunting trucks in the garden is getting closer.....
Simon
Simon
Flying Squad
Job done, a bit Heath Robinson but it works
The inner half of the lever pivot is soldered on to a brass "bridging strap" which is bolted across both of the extended timbers. The outer lever pivot is soldered to the top of the brass box that holds down the end of the operating crank and therefore the spring, which is itself bolted to the right hand (in the picture) extended timber. This is packed with grease to avoid the spring rusting.
The lever pivot pin can be withdrawn and the lever removed and I think I will only fit the lever on operating sessions to avoid damaging the lever or myself by putting my hand on it. This in turn means that the bridging piece and grease box can be removed and the spring and crank accessed in situ.
It feels a bit "dainty" for its environment and purpose but works perfectly. It will be interesting to see how it fares outside. Wiring it all up next, which is pretty straightforward, and then on to the tiebar and another lever assembly for the new B8.
Simon
The inner half of the lever pivot is soldered on to a brass "bridging strap" which is bolted across both of the extended timbers. The outer lever pivot is soldered to the top of the brass box that holds down the end of the operating crank and therefore the spring, which is itself bolted to the right hand (in the picture) extended timber. This is packed with grease to avoid the spring rusting.
The lever pivot pin can be withdrawn and the lever removed and I think I will only fit the lever on operating sessions to avoid damaging the lever or myself by putting my hand on it. This in turn means that the bridging piece and grease box can be removed and the spring and crank accessed in situ.
It feels a bit "dainty" for its environment and purpose but works perfectly. It will be interesting to see how it fares outside. Wiring it all up next, which is pretty straightforward, and then on to the tiebar and another lever assembly for the new B8.
Simon
Simon
Flying Squad
Progress report, after the best part of two months the over centre mechanism is nearly working perfectly. I suspect the spring part isn't strong enough. For the moment, rather than taking this one apart I'm going to build a second mechanism for the B8 and see if I can improve things, before revisiting the first mech.
At the G1 AGM I purchased one of the Accucraft 1/32 open wagons. I have taken off all the running gear and am replacing with more appropriate castings from Neil Butcher and spare bits of Slaters brake gear, I will have brake gear on one side only which befits the relatively early "Camerton Colliery" livery. This is a "special" that Cliff Barker has had done and is definitely not diesel era compatible!
As Steve Cook and I noted looking at the samples wagon last year, the body (still) has a distressing inward bow that quite spoils it. It is otherwise pretty good, but lacks the finesse of the Slaters resin PO wagon.
I have more or less sorted out the bow by using boiling water, resin packing cases and knives, it took three iterations before the sides were straight.
Unfortunately this has been achieved at the expense of the ends now being bowed inwards
In summary the wagon is very solidly put together and pretty good value for money, the lettering is lovely, the buffers are good. The running gear is perfectly suited for the main G1 market and the wheels have highly polished pizza cutting flanges with an angular root radius.
I will try titivating them in the lathe but I suspect the wagon will end up with Slaters wheels being fitted.
More positively, I will be re-working the brakes and operating rod castings supplied with this wagon and re-deploying them on the G1MCo mineral wagon, which will mean I can withdraw those currently fitted, whose shoes miss the wheels by miles.
Simon
At the G1 AGM I purchased one of the Accucraft 1/32 open wagons. I have taken off all the running gear and am replacing with more appropriate castings from Neil Butcher and spare bits of Slaters brake gear, I will have brake gear on one side only which befits the relatively early "Camerton Colliery" livery. This is a "special" that Cliff Barker has had done and is definitely not diesel era compatible!
As Steve Cook and I noted looking at the samples wagon last year, the body (still) has a distressing inward bow that quite spoils it. It is otherwise pretty good, but lacks the finesse of the Slaters resin PO wagon.
I have more or less sorted out the bow by using boiling water, resin packing cases and knives, it took three iterations before the sides were straight.
Unfortunately this has been achieved at the expense of the ends now being bowed inwards
In summary the wagon is very solidly put together and pretty good value for money, the lettering is lovely, the buffers are good. The running gear is perfectly suited for the main G1 market and the wheels have highly polished pizza cutting flanges with an angular root radius.
I will try titivating them in the lathe but I suspect the wagon will end up with Slaters wheels being fitted.
More positively, I will be re-working the brakes and operating rod castings supplied with this wagon and re-deploying them on the G1MCo mineral wagon, which will mean I can withdraw those currently fitted, whose shoes miss the wheels by miles.
Simon
Neil
Western Thunderer
... Unfortunately this has been achieved at the expense of the ends now being bowed inwards
Must be annoying; I'd guess that the solution would be a diagonal cut down the corner of the corner plates to floor level so that the ends could be sorted without them pulling the sides inwards again, followed by slivers of thin plasticard and filler to make good. A bit of a fiddle but it's far enough away from the lettering to keep it free from damage.