Simon's workbench

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Surely all you need is a longitudinal brace to stop the ends bowing in whilst opening the sides to remove the bow in them?

MD
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I have stopped using hot water to soften the resin as there is no finesse in the process... when sorting the "bow" in JLTRT carriage underframe mouldings the effect of immersion in hot water lead to banana floors.

My current practice is to use a hair dryer to apply localised heat and cardboard shields to minimise the spread of heat to areas that I wish to not go soft. In the instance of a wagon body I make some internal formers to hold the ends steady and to push the sides out.
 

Simon

Flying Squad
This isn't any old resin moulding, its a 3mm thick all round bombproof piece of styrene moulding from the insclutable flends who fill Mick's containers.

Bracing the ends just wouldn't work, there is not enough "give" in the material.

Neil's got the answer I think, but it'd be a very difficult course of action, running a slitting disc up the inside angle maybe - sheesh, attempting to cut the corners with any blade - no thanks, far too much opportunity for personal damage of an A&E nature.

I'll replace the bent opening bar (probably) and then just load the wagon with coal to mask its bendiness. (At least the coal will be authentic as I got it from Camerton Colliery dirt batch).

It's a manufacturing fault plain and simple, adding yet another piece of dirt to the monumental slag heap of inconsistencies and inaccuracies with which Gauge One is so very amply blessed.

A lump hammer would sort it out:p

Simon​
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
I think Neil's got it. I'd drag a scrawker (olfa cutter) or other laminate cutter up the corners a few times. And not work on my lap to do it!

Steph
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Here's the mineral wagon purchased and fiddled with a couple of years earlier, but now fitted with the brakes from the Camerton wagon, suitably added to and modified to give a more credible looking means of stopping than previously.

Minwag.jpg

The Camerton wagon now sports Slaters split spoke wheels running in whitemetal axle guards and sprung "Gloucester" axleboxes from Neil Butcher's castings. It has Slaters brake gear on one side only, as befits an earlier wagon. It is waiting for a brake lever and painting, and better looking coupling links.

Here it is a little earlier in the process.

Camerton.jpg

The buffers are very nicely done, but why bother modelling all that undergubbins?

Simon
 

Simon

Flying Squad
A bit more progress, the mineral wagon's brake gear has had some paint slopped about and I am now calling it finished.

Wag1.jpg

The Camerton wagon is now on its wheels, awaiting a brake lever and other sundry bits, including replacement coupling links and a bit of beefing up of the brake shoes.

Wag2.jpg

Earlier grizzling apart, the Accucraft PO wagon lacks the finesse of the Slaters rendition, mine seen here awaiting further painting.

Wag3.jpg

And, I'm happy to say, I have at long last got back on to my Southern ply van which now sports the key parts of its brake gear.

Wag4.jpg

And the B8 for the yard, which the wagons are all sitting on, has had its feed wiring completed.

Simon
 

Mr Tiger Viking

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon, I like the images at the end of all the wagon types, reminds me of how great freight trains used to be. I look forward to seeing the SR plywood van finished and running around, what have you used for the roof felt?
Cheers
Mr TV
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Hi Steve, old shirt!

I have just cleaned up the PO a bit, cutting in some grey paint.

Wagonpaint.jpg

I am contemplating painting in some new planks before black patching it and further weathering, it seems a bit of a fag but it may add a bit of visual interest, unless I botch it of course. I think last time I tried this I overdid the cream element of the new wood, hmmm
 

Simon

Flying Squad
I think I'm in the worse before its better stage, but I've painted in a few replacement planks.

Minwag1.jpg
Minwag2.jpg

I'll let it dry thoroughly and then work at it a bit before applying black patches and further weathering etc. This wagon ought to have the bottom door markings, and the catches, but I'm not sure I'll bother, not least because I don't really understand what the catches looked like, the representations in John Hayes excellent 4mm Coal Wagon don't give me enough information to do a bigger scaled version. And then there's the diagonal white stripe that would probably have been painted on the steel diagonal, I'm afraid I think this looks aesthetically rubbish so it isn't going to get one - I'm sure some didn't!

Simon
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon,

Does this image help? Stanton NRM - Bottom door release catch - RCH spec Wagon Details - Galleries

The other pattern works in the same fashion, but with a pair of back-to-back capital L shapes. This image from Pal Bartlett's collections gives an idea of this: Stanton NRM - Bottom door release catch - RCH spec Wagon Details - Galleries

For what it's worth, I fear that you may have hoisted yourself with your own petard by representing a repainted vehicle which would be rather more likely to have been done 'properly'. The white end door stripe often went either side of the strapping as well as on it if that helps at all?

Adam
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
Simon, can I suggest adding a wash of Desert Yellow (e.g. Humbrol 93) over the replacement planks to get them closer to the freshly planed pine colour? Dry brushing on the grain lines in a brown or dark orange also helps capture the appearance before a thin black wash to represent coal dust.
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Thanks for that Fraser, I actually have some of that in stock from my late friend's collection of pots, strange to relate. I have just this moment applied a wash of the stuff and it's an improvement, so thank you very much for your suggestion!

A bit soft focused and still lightening as it dries, but you get the idea..

Deserted.jpg

Catch-wise, thank you Adam. I still can't see how it works though, did you have the url for the angle ironed type? I think you put Craig's one in a second time, much appreciated either way. White stripes; you're right of course, and yet…

Simon
 

pakpaul

Western Thunderer
Private Owner Wagons from the Ince Waggon & Ironworks Co by A.J. Watts on pages 16 and 14 has enough detail and dimensions of components to make the bits which show from the side as well as to how it works.

Paul
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Thanks all for the information, I have the Ince book and Paul was quite right, all info needed was within.

So I have made the "monkey tails" for the bottom opening doors, and inspired by John Hayes book also added bump stops over the axle boxes from brass strip. Emboldened, I this evening painted the black patches ahead of lettering, and then bit the bullet and went for a white stripe…

Pillock1.jpg

Pillock!

After some very tedious cleaning up I have now white striped both sides of the opening door end. The new underframe details are still "in the brass".

Pillock2.jpg

I do wonder about myself at times:rolleyes:
 
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