Soldering 7mm DJHKit

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Hi,
I'm Thinking of selling on my Heljan 47, and building a DJH KIT replacement. To be honest, I hardly run my RTR locos, as my interest has shifted to kit building.
I'm reasonably good with etched brass, but unsure of a good technique for large slabs of white metal (pewter?) For white metal bogies, I generally use a 50w antex iron full tilt, and only use the low temp iron and solder for smaller fittings.
Before I possibly sell on my Helan stock and invest in a kit, can anyone please offer their experience on a reasonably foolproof technique, which will provide a permanent joint? (Don't want to use epoxy etc)
Thanks,
Grumps
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Hi Grumps,

I soldered my DJH A3 together using a Maplin's £10 variable temp solder station and 70 degree solder without too many headaches.

I think the key with any soldering is make sure that its clean - I use a suede brush to 'shine' whitemetal before soldering.
 

adrian

Flying Squad
I use a suede brush to 'shine' whitemetal before soldering.
Agreed - always worth doing even if glueing the castings. Many white metal castings can be quite greasy depending on what mould release agent (if any!) the caster has used. A brass suede brush will allow the solder or glue to key to the whitemetal.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Have a look in your local pound shop for a set of brushes, normally a set of four.
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I'm Off to pick up a suede brush for my thumper bogies!
As I mentioned above, I generally use my Antex 50W TCS set at 450, Carrs 145 solder and LaCo flux for my bogie castings. (Perhaps I have been extremely lucky as, touch wood, I have never melted anything so far!)
I had read that for 'working' parts this produces a stronger joint.
I Have also read that for bulky cast items, the iron should be at least 50 w otherwise as the heat absorbs throughout the casting, a localised hotspot can occur, causing it to melt.
I have a low temp (95-165) Antex 50W TCS, which I find perfect for small items, but It doesn't seem beefy enough for larger castings. The low melt solder melts but doesn't seem to really blend in to the casting if that makes sense?
I really want to have a bash at building one of these kits as I love the bulk and weight, can 'slabs' of white metal be bought for practice?
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I have rooted out a couple of old white metal bogies, and will practice with the low temp iron and 70 degree solder. I usually clean up with a fibre glass brush, but happy to give the suede brush a try. At least I won't itch for weeks afterwards! :)
I remember having to use a lead friendly flux when soldering lead pipe work years ago (Possibly Fry's ?) Is this the case with white metal kits? I think Carrs may recommend yellow label?
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I've soldered dozens of whitemetal kits using Carrs Red Label and low melt solder (usually the stuff Langley Models sells). The secret, as all the others have said, is cleanliness at the joint.
 

Cliff Williams

Western Thunderer
I have shown a few how to solder white metal components together with low melt solder and a blow torch.
Works well with clean joints, Bakers flux and Carrs red solder with great flowing joints that are nice and solid. I fit things like axle boxes and detail casting to brass as well, heating up away from the components and letting the heat transfer in via the brass, nice and tidy with minimal cleaning up.
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I have shown a few how to solder white metal components together with low melt solder and a blow torch.
Works well with clean joints, Bakers flux and Carrs red solder with great flowing joints that are nice and solid. I fit things like axle boxes and detail casting to brass as well, heating up away from the components and letting the heat transfer in via the brass, nice and tidy with minimal cleaning up.
Thanks Cliff.
I have a small gas torch, I will also give this a try on my spare bogies.
Grumps
 
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