Soldering Iron/Bit interface

[oldravendale]

I've been using a tube of some sort of grease or paste to limit the adhesion of the soldering iron bit to the iron itself, but I'm coming to the end of it and can't see a description on the tube which makes any sense. Is copper grease going to work for this application without compromising the transfer of heat from the iron to the bit? If not can anyone suggest the appropriate material to use for this purpose.

I suspect the stuff I'm using is a grease of some sort - it smokes like crazy after application and when the iron is switched on for the first time but there is no smoking after the initial use. Furthermore it certainly makes the bit easy to remove.

Brian

 

[markjj]

It's available in the old carrs range the grease is called Bitloose.
Here is a link to a couple of stockists.
There may be a proper commercial supplier but you dont need industrial quantities I'm sure.

C1009A Bitloose

Carrs Bitloose | Chronos Engineering Supplies

 

[oldravendale]

Thank you Mark.

Perfect!

Brian

 

[Scale7JB]

I had this problem with my previous Weller 40w, but the new one seems to be too loose. I wonder if it's because previously I had the iron pointing down in the holder, but now I have an angled bit it points up, so the flux gasses are raising out of the element tube and preventing corrosion internally..

JB.

 

[richard carr]

Just buy a decent iron that does have the problem !

Richard

 

[Len Cattley]

Would I need to buy this grease for my ersa 80 watt iron?

Len

 

[oldravendale]

It rather depends if you have a problem in releasing bits from the iron when you want to change them, Len.

On both my Antex irons the bits would get pretty well jammed on to the iron and the only way to get them off was with pliers! Not good for the longevity of an iron.

Brian

 

[markjj]

To be honest I have been soldering in my work since I was 16 years old and I have never used grease yet.
I was taught to turn my tip every time I went to use the iron before I turn it on I still do that today some 43 years later and have never had a tip rust up and get stuck yet.
I have always used Weller irons though and still do.

 

[Len Cattley]

Brian it is a new iron so I don't now if I need it but it is different from a Antex iron.

Len

 

[richard carr]

Len

The ERSA shouldn't be a problem, I have 2 types, one has a screw in bit which you can even change when it's hot (not that I would recommend that as a good idea) the other type which is my main iron these days has a slip on bit attached with a spring like this



That tip has been on for over 5 years now and it moves freely if you push it, you don't need any grease for that.

Richard

 

[Len Cattley]

Hi Richard, that is the one that I have, so thanks for the advice.
Len

 

[richard carr]

It's a great iron Len, miles better than those Weller rubbish !

Richard

 

[Focalplane]

Miles more expensive as well, but worth it

 

[richard carr]

Yes it is more expensive but compared to the price of a kit its not a lot of money and for those of us who really enjoy this, an investment that really is worth making.

Richard

 

[oldravendale]

Certainly, if and when my Antex solder station gives up I'll be moving to Ersa. The Antex plugs along pretty well at the moment, and I also secured a spare plug in iron so it'll probably actually see me out.

Keep safe.

Brian

 

[simond]

Another vote for the Ersa RDS 80.

I was advised (by a WT whose name eludes me,sorry) that a touch of copper grease was advised. I need some for the Moto Guzzi so I’m going to get a tube anyway, I’m sure it won’t reduce heat transfer between elephant and bit.

Atb
Simon

 

[Steph Dale]

...heat transfer between elephant and bit.

Horse and bit might make sense, but elephant and bit...?

I love smell checker, I really do.

Steph

 

[mickoo]

The ERSA isn't bullet proof as I've just found out, doing commercial work means it's on for about 30-40 hours a week and I run at 400°C to get in and out fast.

Recently I was bitching about the brass on the 47xx not taking the heat or solder flowing well, whipped the tip off and found heavy corrosion inside, such that the core inside had begun to separate from the outside.



Normally the tips slide on and off fine, but this one was jammed pretty tight, it came off in the end with a good soak in WD40 and a couple of pairs of pliers, as a bonus the element didn't get damaged.

 

[adrian]

Recently I was bitching about the brass on the 47xx not taking the heat or solder flowing well,

I have thought that mine isn't getting the heat into the joint as well as I remember - following your comment perhaps it's worth trying a new tip.

 

[Hobbyhorse]

The ERSA isn't bullet proof as I've just found out, doing commercial work means it's on for about 30-40 hours a week and I run at 400°C to get in and out fast.

Recently I was bitching about the brass on the 47xx not taking the heat or solder flowing well, whipped the tip off and found heavy corrosion inside, such that the core inside had begun to separate from the outside.

View attachment 122656

Normally the tips slide on and off fine, but this one was jammed pretty tight, it came off in the end with a good soak in WD40 and a couple of pairs of pliers, as a bonus the element didn't get damaged.

As Simon said copper grease will stop that happening, I to run my one in excess of 30 hours a week and have never had issues with the tips.

Simon