7mm The Derby Line - Rolling Stock

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Looks great, superb build. The fact that so many of these Finney7 kits are getting built with little or no fettling really gives me hope when I come to build mine. For a change it will only be my skills letting the side down.
You'll be fine, your skill base is more than up to it, however, there are some areas that need less haste and a little care than one would normally use in another kit.

Specifically, the brake rigging, forming the cab and the compound curve section in front of the V windscreens, the ash pan and the injectors at the rear right hand side.

But, if you take your time and work methodically through it then the result rewards the effort.
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I couldn't work out how to get a convincing join to the moulded atomiser pipes on the front of the smokebox. So off they came and I made up new ones from copper wire. Another job that just takes patience and time, but is worth the effort. Drilling 15 0.4mm holes in the atomiser castings was good for the soul. To be fair they are very tidy and all of the cast holes were there, they just needed to be made a little deeper to take the pipes. Some tidying up still to do...
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Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Try soaking the refills in 50/50 mix PVA glue water. When dry they don’t seem to brake up so much. I started to do this after reading someones recommendation on here (credit to whoever they are. It works).

I had this recommended to me as well - works a treat and massively reduces the splinters.
 
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dibateg

Western Thunderer
After another short break, we are on the home (ish ) straight.. Sorting out and understanding the pipework. The multiple lubricator pipes pass up and into the cladding leaving two pipes that run along the bottom edge of the casing. They are sometimes tatty, sometimes not, one dips down with some sort of drain aft of the slidebars. the inner one is wiggles around but that cannot be seen from a normal viewpount. The steam heating pipe comes to a union under the drivers side, then changes size as it is often lagged. As Mick D found, the truck was sitting too low, that might need a little more fettling. The front sanding hatch has been filled. The screws for the brake hangers come from the inside, as I don't like visible screw heads. There will be some fiddling to ensure that on final assembly. I've sprayed the backs of and behind the deflectors black as I couldn't figure a way of making them removable.
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Broadside view, I did try to make the pipe unions for the lubrication feeds, but failed to make 40 consistently. I think if you can't make consistent and good detail, leave it off.. Forward brake hanger has the screwhead showing as I forgot to fit it before the motor... that's going to be interesting putting them from the inside. The drawbar pin is a screw that goes in from underneath... simples.. Final body detail next, backhead and track test...
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David Boorman

Active Member
I'm just at the point of figuring out where to attach the sanders/sanding pipes - attach to brakes , attach to frames?? I can see your sanders peeking out so you must have figured it! Help please!
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Ah Dave - I should have taken a pic whilst the frames were stripped down. The pipes run down the frames and I can't remember if there were holes, or I drilled some to make a clip to hold the pipe. It's hidden by the wheel in any case so doesn't have to be too elaborate. There is no support bracket to the end bit, like other loco's.

Regards
Tony
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
The backhead has a remarkable amount of pipework and reference to prototype photos helps, although things are often changed in preservation. The AWS fittings alter how things are laid out I also scratched up the valve assembly next to the firehole door cylinder. Next a tidy up and paint in all the necessary bits.
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P A D

Western Thunderer
I agree with Pencarrow - Superb!

The lagged pipes on the right look very nice.

Cheers,
Peter
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Thank you
It took me two and a half days or so, but I do enjoy doing the pipework, I like to understand what they do and where they go... It's all about jigs, and I can't claim originality for the idea, nor can I remember where I got it from. Several saw cuts in a piece of wood and a Stanley blade does the job. I select the next size up of copper wire ( to add the thickness of the lagging to the original pipe size ) it is then just wound through the jig and hey presto!.....
The photos should make it reasonably clear...
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dibateg

Western Thunderer
I keep an eye out for interesting second hand wagons and at a show, I picked up a rather battered SR van with uneven planking that appeared to have been painted with treacle. This is where my 'professional' skills came in to play and in stripping the paint ( with rather unsuitable chemicals ) managed to reduce it to a horrible mess, ending up with just the underframe - actually that is the rare part- even the wheels were past redemption.. It just so happened that I had some spare Freightman sides in the cupboard and managed to obtain a new roof from Peco. So I did manage to recover in a way from the disaster...
So here is the 'Triggers broom' wagon in the process of being reconstructed. Peco/Parkside do an even planked wagon, but ABS were the only source of the twin vac cylinder SR underframe.
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dibateg

Western Thunderer
34091 came back from being painted by Paul Moore and I have had this week to start fitting it out. It's always a nervy job working on a new paint job, and one has to take the utmost care to protect it. There are still lots of little details to attend to, but she is ready for a track test. and I need to change that screw! The Finney7 kit builds in to a magnificent model.
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