The Kirtley work bench.

Peter Smith

Active Member
This is the beginning of a thread that I'll keep ticking over as models I'm building progress. Currently I'm building Bromsgrove loco shed in 7mm scale, the first part of what will eventually cover the whole works complex. The period is the mid 50's, after the front wall was rebuilt in around 1950 but before the Lickey Banker was scrapped as my customer has a model of it.

WT1.jpg

The structure is entirely plastic card and Plastruct, with my building papers for decoration.

WT2.jpg

The corrugated asbestos is Wills 4mm, too small but I can't think how else to do it.

WT3.jpg

WT4.jpg

WT5.jpg

The water tank was built on to the original B&GR shed in 1892.

BROMS 2.jpg

BROMS 3.jpg

That's all the progress there is going to be until I get back from Perth show where hopefully I can buy more asbestos sheet.

Peter
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Wonerfull work Peter . Corrugated card is available from craft shops that cater to scrap bookers and card makers and will sometimes fit the bill . My wife makes cards , birthday etc and thats how i found it .
Cheers Paul
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
These are large buildings so the layout they are going on must be massive. Very nice modelling Peter.
Cheers Paul
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
Fascinating! Thank you, Peter, for showing the prototype, I knew it was large, but not that large!

The model is also a testament to your photo brick papers - I am off to Moor Street in about a month's time with a Nikon 60mm Micro-Nikkor lens. This has minimal distortion so should be perfect for detail photos. I should probably take a wide angle lens as well, in my case the 20mm f2.8 which has minimal distortion unlike so many zoom lenses. Unfortunately these lens were designed for full frame 35mm cameras which I no longer own, so end up as 90mm and 30mm focal lengths on most modern digital SLRs.

Paul
 

Peter Smith

Active Member
This is the last of the three store buildings, back dated with some guesswork as the enclosed end looks very 1960's in the pictures I have. My feeling is that these are original B&GR structures, possibly stables originally, and there were a lot of changes over the years.

store 3 1.jpg

store 3 2.jpg

store 3 3.jpg

There won't be any more models now until my customer orders the next batch.

I will now straighten that support timber!

Peter
 

Peter Smith

Active Member
I've been laying track on a 12' long O gauge layout for a customer, using Peco track, but hopefully at first glance it isn't obvious that it's Peco.

LAYOUT 4.jpg

The point motors haven't been fitted yet so the blades are still loose and there is still cleaning up to do.

LAYOUT 5.jpg

Peco O Gauge points come with a horrible great plastic moulding around the tie bar that is meant to hold a microswitch. As I use the switch on the Hoffman point motors this is not needed so I remove the three sleepers holding the moulding. I then solder the fishplate where the blade hinges solid so the blade is one continuous rail; it looks much better and there is still plenty of flexibility. Once the point has been laid I add three C&L point timbers in place of the removed sleepers, with C&L chairs, two slide chairs and a rail chair on each side.

I keep the Peco tie bar as this looks fine once the ends are trimmed. I think the work transforms the look of the points while keeping the advantages of using them in the first place.

track 1.jpg

track 2.jpg

Before you ask why I didn't just make up the points using C&L components, my customer had already bought it all!

Peter
 

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  • LAYOUT 3.jpg
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AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Great work that with the Peco offering very well disguised. Me I wouldn’t guess it’s heritage.
Loving Bromsgrove to by the way, one incy tiny thing though the brick papers look shiny in some of your photos?
Cheers
 

Peter Smith

Active Member
They do have a slight sheen; I generally give the finished building a spray with Dullcote which I hadn't done when I took the pictures. On roofs I generally give the surface a wash with dilute PVA which soaks in and stretches the paper as it dries, giving a matt surface which is resistant to knocks.

Peter
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
They do have a slight sheen; I generally give the finished building a spray with Dullcote which I hadn't done when I took the pictures. On roofs I generally give the surface a wash with dilute PVA which soaks in and stretches the paper as it dries, giving a matt surface which is resistant to knocks.

Peter
Thats a handy tip Peter , whats the ratio that you use PVA to water .
Cheers Paul
 

Peter Smith

Active Member
There's no need for washing up liquid as we do for ballast, and I mix it so it's like single cream, about one part glue to two of water. It looks horrible when you put it on, the paper bubbles and so on but the important thing is to resist the temptation to fiddle with it....leave it alone and it will dry and look perfect. I often do it in the evening so it dries overnight and I can't fiddle!

I'm working on a 7mm scale model based on Bath Green Park station building now, altered to fit the site alongside the tracks rather than across the ends. The model is 3' long and 1' wide.

GP1.jpg

The shell is 2mm thick plastic card.

STA1.jpg

SB1.jpg

The balustrades are plastic - I bought them years ago and have finally found a use for them.

SB3.jpg

The balustrade on the left has now been altered so it lines up with the pillars underneath.

SB5.jpg

Peter
 

Peter Smith

Active Member
With the plastic shell complete I was able to take it outside to paint it using spray cans. First it had a good covering of matt brown.

GPK 1.jpg

Then over that a misting of matt cream.

GPK 2.jpg

Once that was dry, a misting of Tamiya Flesh.

GPK 3.jpg

Then I could bring it in to attach the doors and windows and begin the decorating using printed papers.

GPK 4.jpg

Peter
 
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