Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I've got lots, actually. Consider my original comment spoken with my tongue firmly planted in my cheek. 
mickoo
Western Thunderer
And my reply likewiseI've got lots, actually. Consider my original comment spoken with my tongue firmly planted in my cheek.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
10mm
more like 2.5mm
Don't forget PPD already add 12mm around the outside anyway so make the border of your actual working etch as thin as is reasonably practicable, you gain more real estate that way
mickoo
Western Thunderer
I think that means around the outside of your limits for their handling.
It depends on how you do your artwork, mine has to fit neatly in a box so that's the size I work too. I make my total etch size to fit that and then any parts inside that are 2.5 from that edge. Then I add tabs to that border around the outside 0.5mm thick and then add PPDs handling border.
That way when it arrives I trim all the crappy rough trimmed edge PPD sometimes leave.
The other way is to not bother and just do your art work with no border, then PPD will pick the size after adding the handling edge mathematically. When your parts arrive they'll be one one big rough trimmed sheet and you'll have to cut through at least 10-15 of waste to get to your parts.
The 10mm border is flexible, PPD will work to the round inch (recently they seem to have adopted 1/2" pricing) and if your artwork has a 10mm border right up to say 12" then your ok. However some of the technicians add a 12mm border which makes your artwork 4 mm too long and they will price it at 13"
I've had one etch quoted and processed at 12 x 6" with a 10mm border and then reordered and found it was priced at 12 x 7". I politely asked if they had grown my etch during the last three weeks and could they explain why it was priced higher, the reply is basically that of above so double check your quotation before you commit.
Because I send so much stuff I just make my handling border 12.5mm and be done that way I know the area I'm working too and that's the first part drawn in any etch and will be from an archive where the sizes are those that fit in the boxes.
It depends on how you do your artwork, mine has to fit neatly in a box so that's the size I work too. I make my total etch size to fit that and then any parts inside that are 2.5 from that edge. Then I add tabs to that border around the outside 0.5mm thick and then add PPDs handling border.
That way when it arrives I trim all the crappy rough trimmed edge PPD sometimes leave.
The other way is to not bother and just do your art work with no border, then PPD will pick the size after adding the handling edge mathematically. When your parts arrive they'll be one one big rough trimmed sheet and you'll have to cut through at least 10-15 of waste to get to your parts.
The 10mm border is flexible, PPD will work to the round inch (recently they seem to have adopted 1/2" pricing
) and if your artwork has a 10mm border right up to say 12" then your ok. However some of the technicians add a 12mm border which makes your artwork 4 mm too long and they will price it at 13" I've had one etch quoted and processed at 12 x 6" with a 10mm border and then reordered and found it was priced at 12 x 7". I politely asked if they had grown my etch during the last three weeks and could they explain why it was priced higher, the reply is basically that of above so double check your quotation before you commit.
Because I send so much stuff I just make my handling border 12.5mm and be done that way I know the area I'm working too and that's the first part drawn in any etch and will be from an archive where the sizes are those that fit in the boxes.
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
That is looking exceedingly good Mick
Ian
Ian
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Tony, cheers, there's an overlay to go on the outside with plate work and rivets, so you don' need to worry when trimming back the tabs about keeping it neat. I might add twist bits in a later version but prefer to rely on correctly etched slots ( below) to hold it in place.
They also make a nice ledge to rest the iron tip on and you can solder from the rear and let the solder wick through. That means less work cleaning up inside around all the fiddly bits.
Some people like loose slots but I prefer them to be as tight as practical and run a Stanley blade through them first to ease most of the cusp, then they grip the tab really well and you just need the smallest sliver of solder to join them.
Loose slots leave a gap that has to be filled with solder and the bigger the gap the weaker the joint. The more metal to metal contact you can get then the stronger the joint
Ian, thank you, but unlike Mr Kipplings finest you can't eat these
They also make a nice ledge to rest the iron tip on and you can solder from the rear and let the solder wick through. That means less work cleaning up inside around all the fiddly bits.
Some people like loose slots but I prefer them to be as tight as practical and run a Stanley blade through them first to ease most of the cusp, then they grip the tab really well and you just need the smallest sliver of solder to join them.
Loose slots leave a gap that has to be filled with solder and the bigger the gap the weaker the joint. The more metal to metal contact you can get then the stronger the joint
Ian, thank you, but unlike Mr Kipplings finest you can't eat these
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Personally, I would prefer it if you retained the etched ones Mick - at least for my kit
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Rob,
To be fair, taking the etched ones out will leave large holes and to fill would require a lot of juggling of the etch maximise space, that's a lot of work; so in reality we may offer both.
Like you I prefer etched ones, but respect those that are happy with white metal as well.
MD
To be fair, taking the etched ones out will leave large holes and to fill would require a lot of juggling of the etch maximise space, that's a lot of work; so in reality we may offer both.
Like you I prefer etched ones, but respect those that are happy with white metal as well.
MD
mickoo
Western Thunderer
JB fair point, that'd work for items sat on a etched groove but not sure about parts that have a flush fit, I always prefer to have as square a fit as possible.
I've got to do another final build so adding the cusp back in the few missing areas isn't so bad. On this build it' mainly parts in grooves so I've left the cusp on but just taken the sharp edge off. It does mean that the small gap now needs seam soldering the full length though.
MD
Silverystreaks
Western Thunderer
I take it this B1 will be a late 2018/ early 2019 release........ only asking as I like to plan in advance
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Realistically we're looking at Telford 2018 or beyond, whilst the etch work may be done and dusted by Kettering there's the instructions and castings to work through.
I/we will not rush for any deadlines, it's done when we're all satisfied it's done.
Hope that helps.
MD
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
Lovely work there Mick, are you going to do the inside of the smoke-box, I think that would look great?
Len
Len
mickoo
Western Thunderer
That'
MD
I'd have to check, but off the cuff not right now, perhaps in the future when things have settled down once the full range is back on stock.
MD
mickoo
Western Thunderer
We're still deciding the best way to do this, in the box or an upgrade.
It's a Marmite thing and it's a shame to waste all that etch and castings if folks are just going to bin it because they do not want it.
MD