Turned out nice

Martin Shaw

Western Thunderer
Jim
I've had that picture for some years, when I first came to Glasgow I had a strong interest in trams so acquired this, I think it may have been a present, anyway it's not tolerated in the living quarters hence it's in the workshop.

Ian/Neill
I've long passed the point where I want to pursue a hobby in discomfort, which for a good part of the year discounts the garage even if choosing the attic placed a limit on machine size. It's not as if they are going to be in daily use so I think traipsing by products through the house can be reasonably contained. Like you I have a tolerant and encouraging wife so as long as I don't upset the neighbours, machining things at late hours etc, I think we'll be fine. It does tend to isolate you from the rest of the world but I'm not freezing my butt off making bits for toy trains.

I have discovered a significant problem with the lathe. I was trying to turn the thread off a bolt and I noticed that every time the tool came under load the cross slide rocked on the saddle. I was certain I had adjusted the gib correctly and double checking it showed the slide moved properly. I could tighten the gib up to stop the rock but it locked the slide solid so a close examination of the gib strip suggested that it wasn't sitting in the dovetail squarely. I had quite a long phone call with the supplier who admitted that this was a known problem and is caused by the drilling and tapping in the cross slide casting being too high and the resultant pressure on the gib strip displaces it. Despite entreaties to Sieg to modify the manufacturing process, which they seem unwilling to do, the situation will apply to any Sieg made lathe, whichever UK supplier you would purchase it from.

They offered two solutions, they would willingly take the machine back and fully refund me, which isn't what I want, or new tapped holes in the casting would solve the problem, they seemingly having done this on occassions in the past. In with both feet I set it up in the mill which certainly made it easier and without trauma drilled and tapped holes. You can see in the pic the new holes are 0.5mm lower and right on the edge of comfortable meat left, didn't really want to break through the bottom edge of the casting.
IMG_0361.JPG
Despite the fact that this is the most adjustment to the position I could sensibly make you might think that it would make little difference, but surprisingly it's just enough, the gib now sits snugly into the dovetail, slides smoothly and doesn't rock about. I will plug the redundant holes with a screw loctited in and filed off flush. The supplier to be fair was wholly decent about the situation and are sending me some goodies by way of compensation, which they didn't have to do, so full marks to Arc. Worth checking if you get one of these. I'd really like to get back to some sort of modelling activity soon.

Regards
Martin
 

Neill

Active Member
Martin

I don't freeze, my workshop is fully insulated and heated, snug is an understatement! My only gripe is I built it 12' x 8', about a third of the double garage. 15 years later it is full, I should have gone for the whole half garage!

Keep up the good work with your lathe, you will turn it into a really good tool I'm sure.
 

adrian

Flying Squad
Swarf in the carpet, now there's a bomb waiting to go off, thus far an industrial hoover has dealt with it seemingly satifactorily, I will undoubtedly hear if it doesn't.
My workshop (a.k.a. 4th bedroom) I laid laminate flooring. Swarf doesn't get caught in it, it's easy to sweep up. Added benefit is that when I do drop that small component on the floor at least I can hear in which direction it bounced!!
 

Brian McKenzie

Western Thunderer
Martin Shaw said:
I've had that picture for some years . . . .
Swarf in the carpet, now there's a bomb waiting to go off,

:eek: . . . . . . Tramming the lathe in the modelling lair, the day the vacuum cleaner gave up. . . . . . . . :eek:

Lathe in the modelling lair.jpg
 
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Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
:eek: . . . . . . Tramming the lathe in the modelling lair, the day the vacuum cleaner gave up. . . . . . . . :eek:

View attachment 77021

One of the benefits of a bigger lathe is the ability to make serious cuts and remove a lot of metal at one pass! However I don't think that the operator of that lathe was acting responsibly! If that birds nest of swarf had caught up in the chuck it could have become a rotating multibladed scythe!

My first lathe was a Unimat which caused endless frustration at how little it would cut. It would produce good work but it took ages, which really tested my patience, hence the Myford.

My workshop is only 9'3" x 8.0" so needs to be kept reasonably tidy but I certainly don't need to move very far to access any of my tools!

Ian.
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
every time the tool came under load the cross slide rocked on the saddle.
Interesting as I have the Axminster version of the SC3 and the tool post doesn't rock under load. However, it does have the disadvantge of the bolt down tailstock which is a bit of a pain. The biggest pain is the collet system not going down to wire sizes unlike my ancient ML7, which went because it needed the bed to be reground.
Simon
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Martin

I don't freeze, my workshop is fully insulated and heated, snug is an understatement! My only gripe is I built it 12' x 8', about a third of the double garage. 15 years later it is full, I should have gone for the whole half garage!
I went for the whole half garage which is also fully insulated and heated. One year later it is full. I should have gone for the whole garage.:)

Brian
 

Martin Shaw

Western Thunderer
Interesting as I have the Axminster version of the SC3 and the tool post doesn't rock under load. However, it does have the disadvantge of the bolt down tailstock which is a bit of a pain. The biggest pain is the collet system not going down to wire sizes unlike my ancient ML7, which went because it needed the bed to be reground.
Simon

In conversation it appears that as a guess approximately 70% of the machines from Sieg have this problem, which is actually the cross slide rather than the tool post per se. I also found out that almost all the manufacture is by hand rather than CNC or jig which will allow some tolerances in where holes are placed. Additionally the dimples in the gib strip do not align with the adjustment screws hence knocking it all off. Restorative measures are in hand.

Myford certainly have a reputation but getting a good one is a bit of a lottery, even if I had the space suitable, the cost would be way beyond what I wanted to pay for a lathe. If I were in that market I might look for a Colchester student, I think just as good as Myford but probably less money. It's academic anyway as I don't want to convert the garage.
Regards
Martin
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
If I were in that market I might look for a Colchester student, I think just as good as Myford but probably less money.
And so we come almost full circle. My tutor on the Axminster course spent many years working for Colchester Lathes!
Dave
 

Brian McKenzie

Western Thunderer
One of the benefits of a bigger lathe is the ability to make serious cuts and remove a lot of metal at one pass! However I don't think that the operator of that lathe was acting responsibly!
And so we come almost full circle. My tutor on the Axminster course spent many years working for Colchester Lathes!

Most of my modelling turning work is done on a Colchester Student 1800, which I have been fortunate to have had from new. My first lathe (at age 14) was an Adept <Adept and TNC Lathes> , progressing next to a Unimat SL - and lathes grew larger thereafter. I do a lot of wheel turning and manufacture, and years ago read the print off the pages of articles by Sid Stubbs on that subject.

Yes, I have to agree with Ian about the danger of being sliced to the bone by razor sharp swarf. I drill out stainless bar for wheel tyres with great trepidation and pause advancing the drill momentarily to break the shards of metal, which get lifted away on the end of a stick.

-Brian McK.

Drilling stainless bar for driver tyres.jpg .
 

Stoke5D

Western Thunderer
I also have a Colchester Student 1800, which was the model of lathe I learned on during the workshop phase of my Graduate Trainee scheme. It does everything anyone could need and secondhand in unloved condition I paid less that 1200 quid for it, with a couple of chucks and other tooling included, which compares well with the new price of the subject machines...

Of course, I'm lucky enough to have a suitable out-building as a workshop, which also has three phase power, as it was a dairy farm in a previous life. I was also able to do the necessary fettling to bring it back up to standard. I realise not everyone can do this but single phase conversion is possible and if you have the space and a bit more money, then you should consider second hand industrial stuff for your workshops every time.


Andrew
 
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ceejaydee

Western Thunderer
I have a Colchester Student 1800 which was one of the machines at the training centre where I completed the first year of my apprenticeship 'Off-the-job-training' before moving to my parent company.
I've had it a few years now and it is stored under cover at my parents'. Whilst I didn't have a particular need for it at the time it came up, the price was right and having used it in the past it was worth buying as it saw little use since the majority of the student lathes were Harrison and the Colchester tended to be used by lecturers.

I'll be getting a new workshop soon and this will see a sorting out of my machines with one or possibly two of my metalworking lathes going in there, the two small ones live inside - Unimat 4 & Peatol, I have a soft spot for my old Drummond round bed but it is in bits and can't see myself using it again, my Grayson needs a little work but is a great machine and I will never get rid of my Steadall (Lorch design) as it was a gift from my late Great-Uncle, is fully tooled and it is an absolute pleasure to use.

I know that I'm unlikely to be able to pick up a lathe like the Student again but will probably clean it up as a winter project then decide if I should use it or move it on.

Did I mention that I like machine tools :thumbs:
 

Brian McKenzie

Western Thunderer
Did I mention that I like machine tools :thumbs:

Seems that we share the same affliction:)

. . . .I will never get rid of my Steadall (Lorch design). . . . it is an absolute pleasure to use
I also make good use of a Lorch lathe (model AV1-K) and fully appreciate where that sentiment comes from. :thumbs:
The video clip shows the tread turning stage in making wheel tyres from stainless steel - using HSS tools ground and 'stoned' as we have been discussing.
 

phileakins

Western Thunderer
Brian

How are you ensuring that the work holder is centred (no run out) when replacing it in the three jaw chuck for a turning session?

Thanks.

Phil
 

Martin Shaw

Western Thunderer
It's wet today as only the middle weekend of the Glasgow Fair can be, so I was excused gardening duties. Arc delivered various bits during the week and I have slowly been reassembling and adjusting the lathe. I think I've got it close to where it should be, the cross and top slides are now snug on their respective mounts and it all is pretty solid so I've given it a try.
IMG_0368.JPG
Since it is now solid the tool is cutting rather than chattering over the surface, the swarf is as I would expect steel to produce and the finish on the bar is acceptable if not mirror, certainly good enough for my needs. If I practice for another 25 years I might be able to do what Brian was demonstrating, once I've learnt how to properly grind these tool thingies. Still, forward from where I was last week.:thumbs:
Regards
Martin
 

Locomodels

Western Thunderer
Martin,

From the swarf it looks like you used a fairly fast feed. Slightly slower might improve the finish.
Also, if you have not already done it, carefully stoning a small radius on the tool tip might also help.

Paul.
(Ex de Havilland apprentice, long, long time ago.)
 

Martin Shaw

Western Thunderer
Paul

The feed was the leadscrew at it's slowest rate, chuck about 350rpm, and a very light cut 0.1mm. I think the tool is the prime suspect. Brian McKenzie has also pointed out the importance of a radius on the tip, I'm still getting to grips with this grinding stuff, not having served an apprenticeship in this field shows. Perseverance will out. Thanks.
Martin
 

Brian McKenzie

Western Thunderer
How are you ensuring that the work holder is centred (no run out) when replacing it in the three jaw chuck for a turning session?

Phil,
I have several of these arbours to cover a range of wheel diameters. You'll notice there is a fair bit of length extending out from the chuck jaws to where the tyre blank is mounted. I don't bother trying to re-center the previous spigot end, but turn a new one - using some of that spare length. Also, dimensions specified for each batch of tyres are never the same. :rolleyes:

100 tyres_8624a.jpg
(1:32 exact scale wagon tyres, French prototype)


Martin,
You are going great-guns. :) Re-locating the cross-slide gib screws was a courageous move. :thumbs:

-Brian McK.
 
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