Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
Fantastic model although not my current scene.
Can't wait to see the next southern kit. Hopefully it's one that I will need.
Can't wait to see the next southern kit. Hopefully it's one that I will need.
W1 as rebuilt
- Thread starter Dikitriki
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 7mm djh finney7 kit design lner martin finney
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Rather depends whether the L11 and T9 are on your shopping list, Peter......
Brian
Brian
Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
One further along the line I think. K10, a nice little mixed traffic loco. A T9 is would be nice but a bonus.
A
Arun
Guest
The 7mm L12 is certainly on my shopping list having produced a 4mm version.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Too small, need to think bigger
A
Arun
Guest
How about 10000 in its original Yarrow watertube boiler form....... then Mick?
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
Princess?
Len
Len
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Err, no
AC 12...
Not quite, Southern it is, but the wrong one
Princess?
Not Southern mate
Len
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
How about the Leader with fully working internal motion.....
.
.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Okay we're getting close now.
After the Alpha/Production build there were a few tweaks to the etch work and today the test shot arrived, which is all looking good.
This means we are now officially in production etch wise and they have been ordered, with a fair wind they will be in the boxes for Kettering.
They're a little big to take effective photos of so bare with the harsh highlights and poor uniformity, but this is what y'all be getting in the box, well, not two sets of motion
What looks like creases or ripples are in fact reflections from the shelf brackets above, other than some slight curling (as is usual on large sheets) from the carrier etch the rest is pretty darn good.
After the Alpha/Production build there were a few tweaks to the etch work and today the test shot arrived, which is all looking good.
This means we are now officially in production etch wise and they have been ordered, with a fair wind they will be in the boxes for Kettering.
They're a little big to take effective photos of
so bare with the harsh highlights and poor uniformity, but this is what y'all be getting in the box, well, not two sets of motion What looks like creases or ripples are in fact reflections from the shelf brackets above, other than some slight curling (as is usual on large sheets) from the carrier etch the rest is pretty darn good.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Just as a follow up, there's been some feedback on the instructions where I've dropped the ball once or twice
I am revising the master copies as we go along.
Rather than keep posting revised ones all the time I'll simply have a running list here, if any one wants a copy right now of the current one then let me know and I'll send a link across.
The changes are not in numerical or alphabetical order, just chronological when we find them.
Changes :-
Page 27, Part Br20 does not exist.
Page 5, Br38 (rear J hanger fitting) this process has moved to Page 8 due to the revised inner frame extension design.
All pages, Etch sheet B1 is not etched as such, it's etched as F6, all references to sheet B1 have changed to F6.
Page 5, Frame extensions (F5, F66) have a revised fixing for the rear J hangers (Br38). The instruction photos show a recess, production etches have a cut out to better align the hangers with the springs.
Current revision of instructions is marked as 02 Apr 19.
Please feel free to add anything else I've missed or pass this information along as required.
Mick D
Finney7
I am revising the master copies as we go along.
Rather than keep posting revised ones all the time I'll simply have a running list here, if any one wants a copy right now of the current one then let me know and I'll send a link across.
The changes are not in numerical or alphabetical order, just chronological when we find them.
Changes :-
Page 27, Part Br20 does not exist.
Page 5, Br38 (rear J hanger fitting) this process has moved to Page 8 due to the revised inner frame extension design.
All pages, Etch sheet B1 is not etched as such, it's etched as F6, all references to sheet B1 have changed to F6.
Page 5, Frame extensions (F5, F66) have a revised fixing for the rear J hangers (Br38). The instruction photos show a recess, production etches have a cut out to better align the hangers with the springs.
Current revision of instructions is marked as 02 Apr 19.
Please feel free to add anything else I've missed or pass this information along as required.
Mick D
Finney7
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Just a small update, after several requests I have finally got around to doing the side skirts....which is not as easy as one might think....given that the whole original model was designed around having none, especially the cylinder area.
On the original model the cylinder wrapper is one piece and fixed firmly to the cylinders and a sub frame attached to the chassis. With the skirts that is not an option, so the cylinder wrapper needs to be split; low enough not to be seen from reasonable low levels, high enough to allow the body to be removed and leave enough meat on the bit remaining for the steam cock drain valve.
There are doors for the openings, currently all closed and you add these to the rear...logically. If you want open ones then simply cut them in half and pose at will, I'll add them at a later date to complete the model.
I'll also now have to add the connecting rod and return crank, along with the lubricators as well as a few other sundries to completely finish the demo model.
On the original model the cylinder wrapper is one piece and fixed firmly to the cylinders and a sub frame attached to the chassis. With the skirts that is not an option, so the cylinder wrapper needs to be split; low enough not to be seen from reasonable low levels, high enough to allow the body to be removed and leave enough meat on the bit remaining for the steam cock drain valve.
There are doors for the openings, currently all closed and you add these to the rear...logically. If you want open ones then simply cut them in half and pose at will, I'll add them at a later date to complete the model.
I'll also now have to add the connecting rod and return crank, along with the lubricators as well as a few other sundries to completely finish the demo model.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Well there's a reason for that, or at least I think there is, laying everything out in the open can leave you exposed to some criticism that you probably don't want or need occasionally, plus there is a duty to complete, an additional pressure many don't want or need. It does also take quite a lot of time to present the model, photograph and write up as a show and tell.
It didn't actually start out as a kit, in fact if you want to develop a kit then this is a prime example of how not to do it. It actually started out as a chassis only etch venture to upgrade a couple of DJH models. The chassis was built from the works drawings supplied by one of the clients/sponsors and after I built the first test one it really showed how bad the rest of the donor model was, that's when it evolved into a complete kit which happened to be around the time Finney7 was born.....the rest is history.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Cheers
The challenge now is how to paint it lol, it needs it as it's starting to fade and tarnish.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Mick, (@mickoo),
What happened to this thought? I ask because we are about to start on the brake gear for an A4 built to run on S7 track and at this point we note that the front and rear brake cross shafts are going to be a source of concern, probably also the brake stretcher beams.
If not a separate etch as describe in your post above, might you have any parts, from the test etches, for the brake shaft levers, the brake stretcher beams / equalising links / pull rods?
regards, Graham
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Graham, no this didn't get any further I'm afraid and sadly there are no spares left over from the test builds.
Best, Mick D