W1 as rebuilt

[mickoo]

Another talented modeller who appears to use no solder, so clean .

Sir, you jest surely

I like the new forum picture rules, mean's y'all cannot see my appalling soldering and scratches cleaning it up.

To be fair that's why I like NS, it takes solder so well and any over spill is easily hidden as it's the same colour but the other trick is the laminated frames, the stays being soldered from the outside through the slots, the mess being hidden with the outer skin, all smoke and mirrors

 

[Ragstone Andy]

After cusp removal it's about 3.75 mm

Good - I'd allowed for 0.05 tolerance

 

[mickoo]

Ok, final checked all the major parts fitting, the last two fabricated parts were the motion bracket and rear brake hanger bracket and needed to check the splasher lengths, the leading one is 29.4 mm long and in Autocad the rear wall arch is 29.4 mm long, yet the splasher when fitted is a good 1.5 mm too short so it's extended on the artwork, easier to cut back than being too short.

The motion bracket made up nicely, except for my bodging, the second one should be much neater. I try to alternate left and right side of the loco when building the first of duplicate parts, that way all the error finding crap work isn't on one side The rear brake hanger bracket is tight, there's still the half etch footplate bracket to attach to it and it just clears the wheel rim by a few thou.
I'd of preferred full etch footplate bracket but that'd mean pushing the whole rear end back by 0.4 mm, which bearing in mind affects a dozen pieces, is not worth the hassle this late in the day. The alternative and the solution I'll probably use, trim 0. 25 mm off the wheel rim if I need more clearance, but as mentioned it does presently clear the wheel with out any alterations.

Some front end images of motion bracket and splashers etc.







In the above one can see the six holes in the frame work aside the bogie stay, they should be rivets, Captain cock and his merry band passed that way You can also see the nick in the cylinder rear lower to clear the rear bogie wheel, al la prototype, should be plenty of clearance in OF also seen the fixings etched in the wrapper for the drain cocks.


And with front driver removed, more to show the hidden splasher in the motion bracket, it also forms part of the structure and adds strength to the whole assembly, real and model. The eagle eyed will have spotted a recess inside the frames just behind the front axle, where the stay with no name has dropped out

Finally the rear brake hanger bracket, a small fold up affair.



It really is very close in there, about 0.4 mm clearance.

Note horrid slot in the inner frame extensions for the rear pony stay, that'll need filling before spraying and it all needs a thoroughly good clean right now.

In other news, I've finally worked out why my wheels start to tarnish and rust as soon as I clean them, like a right berk I'm using a fibre brush to clean them, the same one that I use to clean the model, which has invariably picked up some flux impregnated , so, I'm cleaning it as well as applying a fine layer of flux all over it

Right back to checking all the art work ready for MkII to be sent off early next week, then the left side of the loco will be finished as well as all the other sundries.

Enjoy.

 

[OzzyO]

Hello Mickoo,

could your problem with the front splasher top be due to the frame hight being lower than the middle one and Autocad only measured the arch between the two verticals and not the arch to the tops of the frames?

To help stop the wheels tarnishing apply some metal black to them. If I'm going to have the wheels in the frames when I'm do some soldering (as is normal with me). I apply metal black to the front and rear, then add the balance weights and spray them with black etch primer. No rust or not much.

Nice looking set of frames and will be a lot better than the D.J.H. ones.

OzzyO.

 

[mickoo]

Hello Mickoo,

could your problem with the front splasher top be due to the frame hight being lower than the middle one and Autocad only measured the arch between the two verticals and not the arch to the tops of the frames?

To help stop the wheels tarnishing apply some metal black to them. If I'm going to have the wheels in the frames when I'm do some soldering (as is normal with me). I apply metal black to the front and rear, then add the balance weights and spray them with black etch primer. No rust or not much.

Nice looking set of frames and will be a lot better than the D.J.H. ones.

OzzyO.

The splashers are all the same height and the frame is the same height in this area.

Here's the arc in Autocad


Clearly 29.371 mm long

Here's the splasher in Autocad


Clearly 29.4 mm long.

So why when rolled into a curve is it nearly 1.5 mm too short? all the other four are a perfect length, just this one, most odd.

I did find out why the rear pony stay flipped one side, the art work was corrupt, you only had to move one node or copy it, as PPD would do to make the photo tool and the hatches flipped, that which was clear became solid and that solid became clear. Drew a new part exactly the same and it's now stable.

I've not seen the DJH ones yet so couldn't comment, good as they are they still fall short on some of my initial criteria But thanks for the compliments none the less, and thanks to all the others too

 

[OzzyO]

Hello Mickoo,

in your first CAD drawing showing the rad. of the splasher rear support that has the three blue boxs the ones at the L/H and R/H sides are one and a half grid squares above the solid purple lines. I'm assuming that the measurement of the arc is taken between these points.
If the L/H and R/H blue boxs were moved to the purple line on the same arc as the top of the splasher line that should give you the correct length of splasher top. That would be by moving both the L/H and R/H blue boxs down by approx one and a half grid squares and out by approx two and a quarter squares. As shown by the blue dot on the L/H side that is in the graphics panel to the right of the word area.


OzzyO.

 

[mickoo]

Ozzy,

Your right, the arc length is between the two outer blue nodes, extending it to the frame top (incorrectly - below) would make the support arc even longer. The issue isn't here with the support, it's with the splasher top that's too short to fit over this arc, but only on this splasher, the other two both measure correctly.

The front splasher support and the front of the intermediate support stop short of the frame top on the real thing. This is where the curved footplate bisects it, the A4 and W1 do have a footplate like a normal loco underneath the streamlined casing, part of it you can walk on above, the other part is covered by the flair at the base of the boiler casing, that flair also covers over the splashers on the outside. The reverse applies to the rear of the rear driver where the splasher support travels well below the frame top to give a sythe type apprearance at the tail end.

All the best

Mick

 

[OzzyO]

Hello Mickoo,

if the splasher top is only suppose to fit between the two blue nodes and the arc length is correct and it looks like your length for the splasher top is correct, some thing has gone wrong. Like did you allow for the through etch length? (approx 1mm on the length or is that automatic done in the art work?) Have you checked the lengths of the etches on the sheet? What length have these been etched to? Then check the lengths of the other two and check them against the chord (arc) length shown in Autocad. It may show something up! and give you an idea what has gone wrong.

After that just add 1.5 - 2mm on the length and file it back to the verticals.

OzzyO.

 

[mickoo]

Well I finally found out why the splasher top was wrong, it wasn't the splasher, but the support, no idea how but when fitting the drivers side it was perfect , both sides were 29.4 mm long as well.

A quick look in Autocad found the problem, somehow the support had changed from one side to the other, that somehow was obviously me and even though I flipped the sides and overlaid to check for errors, never spotted the 1.2 mm discrepancy in arc length.



Red being the correct profile, magenta being the overly large support, all corrected for Mk II now

Almost finished fitting all the bit's and pretty much everything is done ready for Telford, there isn't time to get the art work to PPD before Telford, besides I need to make sure what I have actually fits the DJH body, where it is supposed to.

So, all being well, next Sunday post Telford, it'll all get signed off for production.

 

[mickoo]

All done, everything used up and a few more adjustments required to the art work.

Overall view




For some obscure reason the Viakal has reacted with the flux when washing and left a horrid orange stain, it's taking forever to clean off in all the nooks and crannies, part of me wants to etch prime and spray it all over satin black, but then part of the appeal is in it's raw Nickle Silver state. I will keep picking away at it this week to make it a little more presentable for Telford.

Front slide bar bracket fillets added in, chickened out and used Loctite 480, they're in there good and proper now.

Rear end


Close up of the motion bracket, it's come out reasonably ok, bit of a fiddle to fold up but looks the part I think.

Cylinder covers and wrapper fitted, the cover is two discs laminated with a small bevel added. I don't have any 1.2 mm rod so cannot fabricate the centre retaining nut, but there's a hole there for when it happens.

Next? Just go through the art work again and again and again to check everything is correct, then offer the chassis to the body at Telford and make sure the widths and other interface dimensions are ok, once that's cleared up I'll send off the Mk II art work and hopefully get that back before I go on holiday.

Then I'll need some basic instructions, most parts are bleedin obvious but some are a bit more tricky, even if the instructions just point to where the relevant parts are for each sub assembly. All of this will hopefully keep me distracted from all the other interest bubbles stacking up

I tried a set of S7 wheels in this frame, they fit but the slidebar bracket needs a small tweak to clear them, sadly however there is quite a large gap between the wheels and frame, it's one of my pet areas that must be right, this means for me that this set of frames are surplus to requirements, as will the Mk II test build. A S7 version will require a whole new set of stays, something I don't have the time to do right now, nor the finances for the art work, those funds are better placed elsewhere for other more immediate projects.

Enjoy.

 

[Big Train James]

Enjoy.

I did. I think it's beautiful. It makes me want to abandon anything else I'm doing, train related or otherwise, and design a full set of etch for the TBOX 60' cars. I think about it all the time. I'm up to approximately 7% of complete design, in my head.

I agree, it would be a shame to paint it.
Jim

 

[mickoo]

I did. I think it's beautiful. It makes me want to abandon anything else I'm doing, train related or otherwise, and design a full set of etch for the TBOX 60' cars. I think about it all the time. I'm up to approximately 7% of complete design, in my head.

I agree, it would be a shame to paint it.
Jim

Cheers, actually feel at a bit of a loss right now, it's sat there all done, it has been all enveloping these past three weeks and I do have the itch for more but there's just so many crying out for my attention it's a struggle to pick which one , so I'll keep picking away with extras and re checking the art work again

 

[richard carr]

I had the chance to see this in the flesh on Sunday and it really is a work of art.

Richard

 

[alcazar]

Where will it be on show at Telford please? I'd like to see it and discuss getting a set of etches.
Will there be other etches for the cab etc?

It really IS beautiful now I have logged in and can see it in full size pics!!!

Sorry Steve....logging out again now.

 

[mickoo]

Where will it be on show at Telford please? I'd like to see it and discuss getting a set of etches.
Will there be other etches for the cab etc?

Yes it will be at Telford, certainly on Saturday, not decided on Sunday yet.

No, no further etches have been completed but eventually it'll be a cab set and bogie and valve gear and a few other chassis ones I'd forgotten, I.E. lubricator bracket, reverser bracket, buffer spring brackets and inner sand boxes plus anything else I can think of that's required.

 

[alcazar]

How will I find you?

 

[mickoo]

How will I find you?

The frames will be on Nick Dunhills bench for viewing I think? Hope lol as it'll be his next project I understand after the T9s.

Any questions I'll field later here or by PM or at the show if we cross paths.

Hope that helps.

Mick D

 

[alcazar]

Thanks, yes.

 

[mickoo]

Ok a little update.

The body arrived this week and it's time to try and mate the two together and on first inspection, this is going to be a chore, not unsolvable but requires more work that envisaged.

The firemans side fits rather well, it's only propped on but the curvature follows roughly the correct profile, even allowing for the footplate thickness it should fit pretty well.


Unfortunately the drivers side isn't so accommodating.

The casting isn't uniform left to right, especially around the cylinder and sand box area, the footplate thickness will take some of this up, about 30% but the rest I'll ponder on and see how bad it is once the test footplate has been fabricated.

Finally the front, ouch

The top of the buffer housings has an excessive slope which is incorrect, there is a small slope here as the footplate blends into the buffer housing, more along the green lines than the red on the casting. To get this right will require the top of the buffer casing to be built up and the side to match.

This is where the Hachette / Piercey A4 body is much more accurate.

Though the firemans side needs a little titivating to make it match the brass footplate. I was holding off messing with this area for fear of loosing the rivet detail but having seen Nicks super work on the W1 shell the A4 is going for a full strip down and new rivets adding, I may even now take the plunge and fit a thin overlay on the front of the firebox to get neater panel lines and blend it onto the shell, but that's a totally different project.

Hopefully I'll have a basic footplate fleshed out this week with fixing points and make sure the chassis fits, once I'm happy with that and nothing on the chassis needs adapting then the MkII artwork will wing it's way to the etches and I'll start on the art work for the etched footplate and cab work

 

[Eastsidepilot]

Mick,
Is it the camera lens that makes the boiler cladding joint look out of line with the center line of the holes for the blast pipes/chimney's.

Col.