Weathering - have I gone too far?
- Thread starter Willy
- Start date
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
As built, maybe, but there was a faulty wheelset, it would get replaced with whatever was available, which might be spoked wheels.Jordan said:
There is plenty of photographic evidence of wagons with mixed wheelsets, but I cannot recall seeing any with both sets spoked, although this could have happened.
Willy
Western Thunderer
Thank you Ian and I will explain my methods after I have dealt with Jordan?s query.
Jordan, I suppose I can take it as a compliment if all you can pick up is the wrong wheels!
. Anyway, as Simon said, they did receive disc wheel as new but by the time they got to this state they could have ended up with anything that would fit; and roll! To be fair though, they are Parkside kits and they all came with disc wheels but I wanted to use those wheels on a couple of vans that I was building at the same time so I did an exchange. I intend to go to the GOG trade show at Reading in December so I will pick up some more wheels there and then I will have a swap around and end up with a set of disc wheels or more likely a mixed wheelset.
Ian, I started off by applying a coat of ?gunge? consisting of ?Grimy Black?, ?Rail Brown? and ?Rust? from the Floquil range together with various rust & black weathering powders. When this was dry I applied Humbrol Maskol to the areas where I wanted this rust to show through. I then hand painted the wagon with a grey which I mixed up from Floquil ?Reefer White? & ?Reefer Grey?. When this was dry I pulled off the Maskol as per page 71 of Martin Welch?s excellent book, ?The art of weathering?.
I then painted the black backing for the transfers and applied them when it was dry. The next process was adding various rust & black weathering powders along with some dark grey eye shadow that my wife bought many years ago. After buying it she though it looked awful but, used sparingly as a weathering powder, it does give a nice metallic sheen here & there! I also touched up the grey areas with a water soluble pencil, particularly on the stanchions of the vehicle in the centre photo. I also used a water soluble pencil to add various rusty marks after I gouged them with a pointer. I then hand painted the white diagonal line and again touched that up with a white soluble pencil. I then used a semi gloss black paint to touch up the axle boxes and the ends of the brake leavers to simulate the grease that would have been applied here. The only thing left was a bit of dry brushing here and there again using the Grimy Black, Rail Brown and Rust and that is about it so far.
The only thing now is, I built and weathered these with the intention of using them on a ?Corporate Blue? era layout but I am in the process of back dating to the end of the steam/diesel transition era and I don't know if these wagons would have been in this state at that time?
Anyway, thank you again for your comments.
Willy
Jordan, I suppose I can take it as a compliment if all you can pick up is the wrong wheels!
. Anyway, as Simon said, they did receive disc wheel as new but by the time they got to this state they could have ended up with anything that would fit; and roll! To be fair though, they are Parkside kits and they all came with disc wheels but I wanted to use those wheels on a couple of vans that I was building at the same time so I did an exchange. I intend to go to the GOG trade show at Reading in December so I will pick up some more wheels there and then I will have a swap around and end up with a set of disc wheels or more likely a mixed wheelset.Ian, I started off by applying a coat of ?gunge? consisting of ?Grimy Black?, ?Rail Brown? and ?Rust? from the Floquil range together with various rust & black weathering powders. When this was dry I applied Humbrol Maskol to the areas where I wanted this rust to show through. I then hand painted the wagon with a grey which I mixed up from Floquil ?Reefer White? & ?Reefer Grey?. When this was dry I pulled off the Maskol as per page 71 of Martin Welch?s excellent book, ?The art of weathering?.
I then painted the black backing for the transfers and applied them when it was dry. The next process was adding various rust & black weathering powders along with some dark grey eye shadow that my wife bought many years ago. After buying it she though it looked awful but, used sparingly as a weathering powder, it does give a nice metallic sheen here & there! I also touched up the grey areas with a water soluble pencil, particularly on the stanchions of the vehicle in the centre photo. I also used a water soluble pencil to add various rusty marks after I gouged them with a pointer. I then hand painted the white diagonal line and again touched that up with a white soluble pencil. I then used a semi gloss black paint to touch up the axle boxes and the ends of the brake leavers to simulate the grease that would have been applied here. The only thing left was a bit of dry brushing here and there again using the Grimy Black, Rail Brown and Rust and that is about it so far.
The only thing now is, I built and weathered these with the intention of using them on a ?Corporate Blue? era layout but I am in the process of back dating to the end of the steam/diesel transition era and I don't know if these wagons would have been in this state at that time?
Anyway, thank you again for your comments.
Willy
Jordan
Mid-Western Thunderer
Fair enough!! ;DWilly said:Jordan, I suppose I can take it as a compliment if all you can pick up is the wrong wheels!
You get extra Brownie Points and a whole load of street cred for using the best paints there are....
My answer would be "Yes", judging by photos taken in the Forest of Dean in the early '60s...
Willy
Western Thunderer
Jordan said:Fair enough!! ;D
You get extra Brownie Points and a whole load of street cred for using the best paints there are....
My answer would be "Yes", judging by photos taken in the Forest of Dean in the early '60s...
I have to agree that Floquil offers the best modelling paints available. I am still using the same bottle of 'rust' that I bought well over 20 years ago when I dabbled in US '0' Scale (Reading Lines) and it is still perfectly usable. The range is not cheap and I only know of one UK supplier but they are worth every penny and I am going to stock up when I go to Reading in December.
Your mention of the Forest of Dean in the early '60s is interesting because it was the excellent Wild Swan book "The Forest Of Dean Branch" that gave me the inspiration to move my modelling period back a few years; spooky!!
iploffy said:
Ian, I intend to do a couple more sometime during the next few months but this time I want them to look slightly less worn, although the technique will be the same or similar, and I will do as you suggest and post a step by step.
Cheers also to Pugsley!
Willy
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Looking good Willy.
I like others look forward to your tutorial or at the very least some pictures as you go along with the next ones
I like others look forward to your tutorial or at the very least some pictures as you go along with the next ones
Willy
Western Thunderer
Jordan said:You kept that quiet!! A Secret Dark Sider !!! Iploffy and marsa will be pleased!!!
My favourite UK area/time period, hence the Class 22 and (eventually) Class 14...
As I say, I dabbled in US '0' Scale over 20 years ago when there were only a handful of us and there wasn't much in the way of RTR on the market. Weaver had just introduced a nice 2-bay covered hopper and an offset coal hopper, which was just right for the Reading. Jason Dickie was up and coming and I seem to remember that the only RTR loco readily available was the F9 from Atlas. So it was down to a lot of kit-bashing and adapting, etc and I even managed to build a small layout that I exhibited on a couple of occasions. I have some photos somewhere and I will have a look for them and post them on here if that is permissible!
Anyway, that is an aside so thank you all for your kind comments.
Willy
