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Discussion in 'Talk' started by SteveO, 14 February 2014.
Hey!!!!....who's nicked my Delorean?
Soldering white metal shouldn't be a problem, just needs the right tools. I use a 50 watt temp.controlled Antex on it's lowest setting.
SOLDERING shouldn't be a problem...but it remains a black art to so many people.
Well, I managed to solder on my white metal tanks on with a fully hot 65w iron and 188 solder... Full story later tonight.
188 solder on white metal, should be interesting, cheers Rob
Just giving this a bump-up.... SteveO, noticed a few little website updates with the suppliers getting tied down, looking good.... A more technical question - any chance that the kits are/will be provisioned with a straightforward compensation system out of the box to make S7 construction a little more pleasant?
I'm afraid not Dave, this incarnation is a slightly updated version of the original to test the water. There will be some small revisions to the etch, but not that significant. Sorry.
However, testing the water has pretty much convinced me that a better version of the 03 & 04 will have a market. After these are sold I will spend about a year or two digitising the etches and bringing them into line with current building techniques and technology, and introducing more options.
Thanks for asking!
That's ok! I understand the limitations you're working with, especially on a first-batch. As you've actually handled these locos before, on a scale of 1-10, how difficult would adding some kind of basic compensation system to give a little bit of play over the (admittedly short) six-coupled wheelbase? I honestly have no idea as to how much - if any - flexibility would be desirable or required, but given I'm working with 4'6" radii and looking to adopt S7 standards... I think I'm going to need to plan for something and I generally find it's good to plan ahead!!
f_c, the more basic the kit the easier it is to add compensation. Simple etched brass kits often have fold up frames with round holes etched in about the right place for fixed bearings. It is easy to cut slots for hornblocks while it is still flat. I suggest you use Martin Finney's simple hornblocks HB7/2 as they are easy to use and work very well. Set the axle spacings with the coupling rods (let me know if you need to borrow jig axles for setting it up). One fixed axle with the gear on it and a single compensating beam on the other axles is the easiest way to do it for a first loco. For S7 you will probably want to separate the frames and make wider stretchers, but it depends on the prototype spacing - some diesel shunters had narrow frames with the springs between the frame and wheels. My S7 layout Ardival has 1400mm minimum radius curves, including a reverse curve on vertical curves, if you need to test the flexibility of small locos.
Agreed with above. A pair (probably the front pair or outer pair) of compensated/sprung axles is plenty for a short wheelbase loco like this. Even just the centre pair would be fine, and 0.5mm movement would be plenty enough.
I have a mad design for all three compensated axles that I'm working on at the moment, but it would be bordering on overkill for these locos. I designed it to include a motor/gearbox housing too, so it's a complete drop-out unit for maintenance and painting. The reason is that I planned to produce an Hunslet 05 kit too, which shares the 03/04 wheelbase, so one unit would cover all three locos.
Wheels! I thought you'd be interested in these beauties. The centres were able to be moulded in one piece, avoiding the need for an etch overlay. These are the 03 wheels:
Are they now available from Slaters?
Very soon Jeff, these are the preproduction samples so they are the only ones that exist so far. Very exciting!
Very interesting Steve. From your experience I shall have no fear in talking to Slater's about wheels for my next project...
Yes, I would have no hesitation at all. I find David a real pleasure to deal with.
These look very nice, but is there any chance you can get Slaters to incorporate the different thicknesses in the balance weight? The left hand side (from the six o'clock position) should be slightly thicker than the right (I think it is that way round - difficult to tell from photos)
I'm not entirely sure that is going to be possible as the reverse of the moulds is hollowed out, so may make it dangerously thin – any extra material may make the whole wheel distort.
Plus, I've only found this on a few wheels, certainly not all of them. For example, have a look at these locos on Wiki:
without & with
They are reasonably close to each other in production to assume they would share the same source for their wheels, and yet one set shows an out of line set of weights. Can anyone can shed any light on this? Is it simply age has shifted one of the inserts inwards?
Nice work!! This is all becoming quite exciting..... is there any chance that Slaters will offer S7 rims on those wheels?
A nice looking set of wheels for the 03 & 04s,. To add the thicker balance weights is not that much of a problem a shim of plasticard should make a good fist of it.
I don't think that the balance weight has moved as these weights were cast into the wheel centres. It could have just been that they were cast at different foundry's.
Well done for getting these wheels made, and a nice looking job as well.
The wheels on this one might be harder to replicate?