Your DCC system

[Steve Cook]

Excellent stuff
Glad the original Multimaus works in a similar fashion too, we can go for three handsets next time then
Didn't get a running session in yesterday - water started dripping from the lounge ceiling onto the sofa yesterday afternoon Fault traced to a washer on the service valve that supplys water to the cistern in the bathroom, its been leaking for a while, but with boxed in pipework you can't see it.

Managed to stop the leak, got the mains water off and currently trying to dry everything out to see what the damage is, not really a fitting end to a good few days away

Steve

 

[Steph Dale]

Just a thought guys - I've got a loco defined as 'TEST' with Address set to 3, as that's the address all decoders come with as bought. That way I can test the programming of a decoder easily on installation, before I start programming it...

Steph

 

[Simon]

Just a thought guys - I've got a loco defined as 'TEST' with Address set to 3, as that's the address all decoders come with as bought. That way I can test the programming of a decoder easily on installation, before I start programming it...

Steph

Good point, Steve's already ahead of that loop and I will be moving my addresses by a constant to avoid the "3" address and also to increase my chances of not clashing with other DCC equipped allocations

Simon

 

[Steve Cook]

Just a thought guys - I've got a loco defined as 'TEST' with Address set to 3, as that's the address all decoders come with as bought. That way I can test the programming of a decoder easily on installation, before I start programming it...

Steph

Top suggestion Steph (and obvious when you think about it!)
Done

 

[Dave]

I've got a Dynamis system and could really use some help with it, if any of you chaps also have one and can help?

Basically, I don't know how to add another loco to the fleet and give it it's own address. I've gone through the user manual and I can't find anything about adding more locos - only changing addresses and even that doesn't work as it says in the manual. I've gone and lost two of the locos from the list on the controller and now can't run them at all!

Could someone please post a step-by-step guide? I'm sure you don't need a degree in computer science to work this DCC thing but it certainly feels like it. They must think that these things are all going to be operated by 8-year olds!

 

[Jim S-W]

Afraid ive never used dynamis dave.

Our set up is as follows, the layout is divided into 5 power districts. 4 for the track and 1 for control of the points. This is powered by a big box of cleverness designed by Phil an a Digitrax super chief (using DT400s or thier radio throttle). Points are controlled by JMRI. The fiddleyard is an identical set up and the fiddleyard and layout are actually completely independant only connected by a single loconet cable.

Cheers

Jim

 

[daifly]

I've got a Dynamis system and could really use some help with it, if any of you chaps also have one and can help?

Basically, I don't know how to add another loco to the fleet and give it it's own address. I've gone through the user manual and I can't find anything about adding more locos - only changing addresses and even that doesn't work as it says in the manual. I've gone and lost two of the locos from the list on the controller and now can't run them at all!

Could someone please post a step-by-step guide? I'm sure you don't need a degree in computer science to work this DCC thing but it certainly feels like it. They must think that these things are all going to be operated by 8-year olds!

Dave
There is a munual at http://www.bachmann.co.uk/pdfs/dynamis-user-guide.pdf which looks fairly straightforward. My inclination when everything seems totally messed up is to do a factory reset and start again. The factory reset info is on the System Menu on page 24. Then start again by Programming each loco identity in turn using the info on page 9. I presume that you are taking the precaution of using a dedicated Programming Track or Service Track as Bachmann call it.
Alternatively, call in the nearest 8-year old! Good luck.

Cheers

Dave

 

[Dog Star]

Alternatively, call in the nearest 8-year old! Good luck.

Most 8 year olds will be confused by the lack of left / right sticks and buttons marked with symbols for:-
* triangle;
* square;
* X;
* circle.

Result - child , WT-er .

 

[Dave]

I've got the actual user manual here but copying from the one in the link...

1. Changing the locomotive address
The locomotive address can be set in either of two ways
Service Track - all addresses 0001 to 9999
Main Track - short addresses 1 to 127, only if allowed by the decoder

Assuming this is the correct part (it is on page 9, as mentioned),which should I use? The long address or the short one? I do not have a seperate service track but it doesn't matter, I can use the layout as the service track because I don't keep the locos on if I'm not using it. My problem is that I don't want to change the address of any of the locomotives, I want to add a completely new loco and give it an address that isn't already in use.

 

[chrisb]

I've got a Dynamis system and could really use some help with it, if any of you chaps also have one and can help?
...

There are a lot of useful videos on YouTube -

 

[Dog Star]

We have bought a Loksound V4 sound decoder for a 57xx Pannier and that chipp is going to be fitted into a 7mm model (which has an ABC motor/gearbox). The model is a 2021 class Pannier and hence the wheels are smaller than those fitted to a 5700 Pannier.

Out of the box the rate of exhaust is much greater than the rate of movement... probably because of a 4mm chip being used in a 7mm model. The instructions state that for using the 4mm chip in a 7mm model there is a procedure to enable automatic adjust of the exhaust rate - run the loco at a specific controller setting for a specific distance. Done that and the result is much better. I have the impression that the exhaust events are occurring at a rate that is close to the speed of the engine... just not the same rate. This makes me think that the difference in wheel diameter between the prototype classes might be influencing the sound.

Any ideas anyone? regards, Graham

 

[TheSnapper]

Hi Graham


Firstly, whose sound project is it (Howes/SWD etc?)

Presumably, you have been adjusting CV57 & 58 to sync the chuff?

However, if I am understanding your problem correctly, I had a similar issue with “Heyside Clive’s” Jubilee (post #572, here: http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/re-heyside-7mm-l-y-late-50s-early-60s.552/page-29 )

Are you able to check the value in CV249? This controls the minimum distance of 2 steam chuffs. On Clives’ Loksound V4 chip, it came set to some number greater than 0, which seemed to override the CV57/58 settings. I set it to zero, and all was well.

BTW, do you know about the “CV54 Trick” for the Loksound V4 chip, to set-up the Back EMF properties automatically?

Tim

 

[Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen]

I'm now fitting my first Loksound V4 chip to a Class 40 and whilst making reasonable progress with adjustments would be interested to hear of the CV54 trick plus any others, thanks in advance
Tim

 

[Dog Star]

Firstly, whose sound project is it (Howes/SWD etc?)

Presumably, you have been adjusting CV57 & 58 to sync the chuff?
Are you able to check the value in CV249?

BTW, do you know about the “CV54 Trick” for the Loksound V4 chip, to set-up the Back EMF properties automatically?

Thank you for replying - your Qs and my As in order.
SWD out of the box.
No, V4 has an automatic method (not sure how this works... anyone know?).
Using Lenz 100, not yet been able to work out how to read CV back.
No. Motor and gearbox from ABC.

Graham

 

[WellThatDiddntGoToWell]

mikoo
I might of missed part of this thread so forgive me. Which multimaus non pro version did you get? Having read what you guys are saying, this looks to be a reasonable unit for mine and my son's OO project, to replace a rather err emm Hornby jobby. Looked on flebay and came across these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DCC-Contr...&prg=1005&rk=1&sd=230797550806&#ht_762wt_1053

And: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROCO-MULT...prg=1005&rk=2&sd=230797550806&#ht_5607wt_1053

They appear to be mixed from different sets but given the price and if it's all there, I cant help but consider it.
Regards
Dean

 

[TheSnapper]

........ V4 has an automatic method (not sure how this works... anyone know?)......

Sorry Graham, thought I'd replied to this. Maybe I did in another thread........Anyway, here goes:


Tuning the ESU V4 Decoder to suit your locomotive
The Loksound V4 chip can handle a broad range of different motors and works well 'out of the box' with most of them. Sometimes the factory settings don't work well with certain motors and the commonest symptom you see is a slight juddering as the loco starts and stops. However, the v4 chip has got a nifty new feature and is able to automatically fine-tune its own CV settings and get rid of this problem and operate silky-smoothly. This is done as follows;
Place the loco on a long stretch of track with plenty of room to move in front and behind - at least a metre (or use a rolling road) Set CV54 to 0, Then Press F1.
The loco will move at high speed for a short distance, measure the motor's response and then adjust itself accordingly. From then on the motor will operate smoothly without juddering

Try it – it works!!

Cheers

Tim

 

[Dog Star]

Done that. Result as described. Sorted the motor operation and did nothing for the synchronisation of exhaust to wheel rotation.

Eventually got a 99% sync by setting cv 57 (by measuring the time to make ten rotations) and cv 58 (trial and error). I say 99% because the sync is not spot on. If I set cv 58 to "x" then the exhaust drifts by 3 or 4 degrees per revolution, if I set cv 58 to "x+1" then the exhaust gains by 3 or 4 degrees per revolution. Not sure if this can be improved.

regards, Graham

 

[TheSnapper]

Done that. Result as described. Sorted the motor operation and did nothing for the synchronisation of exhaust to wheel rotation.

Eventually got a 99% sync by setting cv 57 (by measuring the time to make ten rotations) and cv 58 (trial and error). I say 99% because the sync is not spot on. If I set cv 58 to "x" then the exhaust drifts by 3 or 4 degrees per revolution, if I set cv 58 to "x+1" then the exhaust gains by 3 or 4 degrees perg revolution. Not sure if this can be improved.

regards, Graham

Graham.

Check cv249 - see post 190 above

Tim

 

[Peter]

There's a thought - radio controlled live steam in Scale7 - it's tempting!!
Adrian

Reading this tread, reminded me of two systems previously described in the model railway press.

In the 1974 publication, in 45 weekly parts by New English Library, The History of Model & Miniature Railways, there was an article, Controlled Steam In 16mm Scale by Dick Relph. In this he stated that he had conceived the idea thirty years previously. In the June 1981 issue of Railway Modeller it was again described and illustrated. These locomotives, built to 16mm scale and running on 32mm gauge track, were spirit fired. Control of the locomotives was electrical using a simple hand held controller operating through the 2 rail layout which was indoors.

The GMT group at Manchester Model Railway had articles in the following issues of Model Railway News, December 1965, March 1966, May 1966, June 1966, July 1966 and August 1966, describing their efforts in firing and controlling electrically Gauge 1 steam locomotives. This system was three rail but they stated that two rail was achievable.

Replication of these two systems using components and systems readily available today should not be a problem.

In the first article, Don Boreham is quoted as saying after a visit: “there is nothing so much like steam as steam”.
Peter

 

[Dikitriki]

Hi Guys

I have an irritating issue with a chip I have just installed.

The whistle - F2 - sounds every time I put it on the track. By which I mean every time, whether the sound (F1) is on OR NOT. Bizarre. As you can imagine, cleaning the wheels is annoying as it whistles at me every time I move the contact to the next wheel.

The chip is a Jinty chip from Howes, a Loksound V4, not the XL.

Has anyone come across this? Is there a fix? Is it a faulty chip? All seems well apart from this issue, although it only went in yesterday, and I haven't played with the loco much.

Richard