4mm An EM Workbench: selection box

SECR/SR Lowmac (from plastic sheet!)
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    I do rather like a well weathered wagon, Well in both terms, well being lots of weathering and Well meaning well executed weathering.

    Thanks Alan, and thank you to all those who clicked 'like'.

    Anyhow, here's a bit more SR lowmac, this time with a tad more detail on the axleboxes, and the chain pockets have become fully formed, if not tidied up. The bits sticking out of the deck are the handles - in the real thing, these were holes inset into the lids with a bit of strip across the top. On the model, these are shallow holes at 2mm diameter. A 2mm strip of 20 thou' has been slightly rounded on the ends and let into those holes before being secured with a drop of solvent. Once they're fully hardened off in a day or two, I'll trim them flush with the deck.

    Lowmac_007.gif

    All this activity is only bringing the task of making four sets of identical springs and hangers closer...

    Adam
     
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    Trestrol
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    Since I've been far to busy to worry about putting off making springs for the lowmac, the Trestrol has been weathered and, since it was just about bright enough this morning, has been photographed prior to loading - because I really think this is a wagon that will benefit from it - and it's an impressive thing - just imagine the size it would be in 7mm!

    Trestrol_018.gif

    I especially like this 'reverse angle' shot of the trestles.

    Trestrol_019.gif

    So that's more or less there, barring the aforementioned load and the crud of hammerscale and detritus that should be in the well. Back to spring-dodging...

    Adam
     
    SECR/SR Lowmac (from plastic sheet!)
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    Thanks all - now, I've had a bit of a think and made a start on a set of springs for the Lowmac. There are various approaches that could be used:
    • Spend ages seeing whether I or any of the parts manufacturers had anything suitable
    • Making a jig of some kind and building them up leaf by leaf like the real thing. In styrene - and scale thickness would be 5 thou' or thereabouts - there is a very real risk of a big solventy mess.
    • Photocopying the drawing, gluing that to some plastic sheet and cutting out of, say, 60 thou' sheet - this carries with it the risk of the blade going 'ping'
    • Or...?
    Well here's what I did, based to some extent what Geoff Kent and dad did when similar problems turned up. First, some measurements:

    The spacing between the spring hanger centres is/was 3' 6" (14mm in 4mm scale) with a bit of overhang at each end - I reckoned that 15mm would be plenty long enough. I marked out two pencil lines 14 mm apart on a piece of 20 thou' styrene sheet with a centre line between them. I chose 20 thou' because it's easy to cut, and can be laminated onto 40 thou' to bring it up to thickness.

    Marking out the curved top edge was simply a matter of finding something of a suitable diameter, about 4"/10cm in pencil. then made a small mark with the point of a scalpel on the centreline, 2mm below the curved line and scribed all the way across the strip and gently, 1mm either side of that centreline as a guide for trimming the bottom edge of the spring. See the picture below:

    Lowmac_008.gif

    Note that I've trimmed the strip off over width to make up the full length of the spring and marked out one extra to allow for errors. The acceptable springs were then mounted on 40 thou', solvent welded in place and will be allowed to set prior to further shaping and detailing.

    Lowmac_009.gif

    Adam
     
    SECR/SR Lowmac (from plastic sheet!)
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    And here the Lowmac rests at Christmas, no more will be done until New Year now. The springs have been shaped - steps filed into the undersides to represent the leaves (I didn't bother to scribe the leaves in themselves) - straps added and the mountings added. If I wanted to be critical, I think that I've made the springs themselves a bit too deep but you'd have to be very intimate with the prototype to notice. A few more deck-support brackets have gone in under the ramps and the access panels for the draw hook springs added to each end of the deck.

    Lowmac_010.gif

    Lowmac_011.gif

    So what's still to add? Many, many rivets, works plates, label clips. securing rings and, I suppose, a coat of paint. Oh, and the load...

    Adam
     
    Open (High) Season
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    Happy New Year. I hope it's brought you some welcome rest. Following Christmas, two opens have become three. The third is a BR-built, LMS design from a Parkside kit and, like the GW pair, would have been retro-fitted with vacuum brakes. The mouldings are excellent, marred only by the axleboxes supplied which were not quite one thing nor the other. The whitemetal ones shown are from MJT/Dart Castings and will be altered before painting.

    Open_pair.gif

    All the various holes in the ends are for Rumney Models tarpaulin bars - these would be really good in 7mm for those of you so afflicted - drilled using a supplied jig. Clever stuff. The GW one (rear) has also received new axleboxes, this time LNER pattern which were occasionally retro-fitted, Masokits screw couplings and MJT buffers of a Dowty hydraulic type.

    GW_op_004.gif

    The other alteration on the GW opens was to scribe the extra 'half' plank in, using my digital vernier gauge. I know this isn't what they're meant for, but...

    The container, by the way, is complete and ready for paint. This one will be crimson.

    Adam
     
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    Open (High) Season
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    Can I ask if you made the securing rings on the container?

    Sure - the large ones on the corners are quite simple: the anchor points in the corners are made from spare links from Masokits screw couplings; you get two short and one long links - the leftovers, short in my case, are extremely handy for all sorts of things, cut in half and glued into holes drilled at 45 degrees into the corners. The links are just formed around a bit of scrap 30 thou' from bell wire (13A fuse wire would do). The smaller lashing rings are from the kind of soft brass wire that comes wrapped around Rioja bottles (having carefully removed and disposed of the Rioja) wrapped around a 0.75mm drill. They're held in with bits of scrap fuse wire folded and twisted around before being stack into place in 0.5mm holes.

    I'm not altogether certain that containers were always lashed in place in open highs - though they certainly were in medfits - since there's not anywhere for them to go. I am going to check this. Watch this space...

    EDIT: OK, the lashing here looks as though it's holding the sheet on rather than the container in place:

    45345-92101 Knott End Junc. 20.6.67

    These seem to have no lashing at all:

    6983 Otterington Hall on goods in Goring Cutting 1965

    6983 Otterington Hall on goods near Goring. Feb'65.

    This is less relevant - because the British container is sitting on a Dutch flat wagon on the dockside at Hook of Holland (but it's a lovely photo! EE 350hp 0-6-0 too) - I doubt the wagon would have left the docks without some form of lashing:

    Hi-Res ER1219

    Adam
     
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    SECR/SR Lowmac (from plastic sheet!)
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    This was the other railway-related Christmas item - a Bachmann grain hopper. There is, of course, the usual, heat, glimmer and froth thread over there, but I'm concerned with improving the thing. An update on the flatpack lowmac is at the bottom.

    All I have done to the grain hopper thus far is to change the wheels (EM wheels just drop in), remove the tension lock couplings, add some three-links and to trim off various moulded grab handles before drilling for replacements (there's more to do of these). I have also filled the larger than acceptable gaps with Milliput and taken off the extraneous step moulding on the side without the inspection hatch. The damage to the paint finish doesn't matter because the vehicle will be repainted. Bachmann, btw, have clearly used this picture as their exemplar: BR Grain welded Unfit Diag 1/271 CGO | B885467_BR_Grain__m_


    Grain_001.gif

    Grain_002.gif

    Grain_003.gif

    Otherwise, the Lowmac has inched forwards, with chain rings (on the deck and on the headstocks - the latter were a right pain to do; more bits of Masokits screw couplings), spring hangers completed and a crop of rivets on the headstocks. It's still a pig to photograph!

    Lowmac_012.gif

    Adam
     
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    SECR/SR Lowmac (from plastic sheet!)
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    A couple of project updates, one from a slow-burning construction programme and another showing one in paint. First, the Lowmac, with load:

    Lowmac_018.gif

    And without:

    Lowmac_020.gif

    Lowmac_016.gif

    The chassis has been painted matt black from a spraycan - I'm after a fairly tidy finish for this - with a wash of thinned Himbrol matt chocolate. I'll work back into this is due course. The deck was treated to a coat of brownish grey - a mix of metalcote gunmetal, matt leather and some matt light grey. Once that had dried thoroughly, I worked back into that base coat with the same colours in a lighter mix, watercolour fashion with several very thin coats. The metal elements on the deck were picked out in matt chocolate at the same time. I left the result for a couple of days before working back in with washes of heavily thinned metalcote gunmetal with more, or less matt red orange (Humbrol no. 100), worked along the grain and in light streaks down the ramps from the metal panels which were treated to thicker versions of that mix. The effect could be a bit more subtle, but since there'll be an army ambulance parked on top...

    The Palbricks, meanwhile are causing a certain amount of head scratching while I work out the best construction sequence. These are quite complicated and, in 4mm, relatively flimsy, which is why they'll be modelled with the pallet brick loads as fixtures. Four at a time is hard work...

    Palbrick_7.gif

    Adam
     
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    Palbricks
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    Palbricks were quite unlike anything else (or at least, anything else built in quantity) were quite thin and had edges and handholds/lifting holes edged with, I think, some sort of metal sheet. The edges were similarly treated. As ever, @hrmspaul has some useful pictures: BR Palbricks and rebuilds as match wagon, internal use | B462073_Palbrick_B_lot_2724__m_

    Palbrick_8.gif

    Obviously if someone is daft enough to make a batch of four of the things, it makes sense to mark them all out at the same time on a strip of 20 thou' (probably too thick). Of course, I had to make life difficult at this stage by making one Palbrick A which had a slightly different sort of centre stanchion...

    Palbrick_9.gif

    The holes required a new scalpel blade and a bit of care, but even so I've marked out a couple of spares. Note that I've done one where the sheet has been replaced upside down. This seems to have been quite common (indeed, I have pictures with both panels upside down - ) but I may or may not use it. I then made the liners for the handhold which even on a loaded wagon are visible on the inside too. I cut these from 5 thou', slightly oversize, and have solvent welded them in place. These will be left to harden up for a few days before tidying up and adding the edge strips. Even 5 thou' is probably a bit over scale.

    No, I'm in no hurry to do any more, but since I've started, I may as well carry on.

    Adam
     
    Palbricks
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    I do like an unusual wagon like the Palbrick. It's nice to see someone tackle more than one!

    It's only just struck me that the holes in the removable sides are probably spaced to allow a forklift to lift them out. As the load was palletised and would have been shifted by forklift, why not use the same machine to clear the sides?

    That's almost certainly right, Heather, but without spec' sheets for 1950s forklifts (or indeed, an actual '50s forklift) to hand, I can't be sure!

    EDIT - a quick search for Lansing Bagnall - the only forklift manufacturer of the period I can name! - suggests that yes, that would be about right.

    Gallery of all models of Lansing Bagnall: Lansing Bagnall FOER 3, Lansing Bagnall FOER 5 Rapide, Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2, Lansing Bagnall FOER 9, Lansing Bagnall FRER ...

    I'm doing more than one because pretty much all of the pictures I have of them in traffic show multiples. The fact that it would take two or three palbricks to carry the equivalent load to an 8-wheel road wagon probably goes a long way towards explaining why they weren't desperately successful and relatively short-lived. That said, changes in the brick industry must also have played a part. I gather that most of them ended up carrying specialist products such as refractory bricks, more suited to being shipped in relatively small quantities.

    Adam
     
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    Palbricks
  • Jon Gwinnett

    Western Thunderer
    I should declare an interest since my Dad did his apprenticeship at Lansings and worked there for 32 years! Lovely work.

    I wonder if the panels were really forklifted out. They look so thin that a misplaced fork would wreck them, yet I don't recall seeing any photos with such damage? As they were so thin, I suspect they were hoisted out by hand before the lift truck headed in.

    As an aside, one of my first jobs involved a very ancient Lansing lift truck which was of the "walk behind" rather than ride on variety. It was at least as old as I was, and seemingly bulletproof. Not every use we found for it was exactly as envisaged by the manufacturer :)
     
    SECR/SR Lowmac (from plastic sheet!)
  • Simon

    Flying Squad
    All looking really good, you can't beat a wagon or two, or three...

    I especially like your Southern lowmac, a really effective and purposeful looking model and a great base for all sorts of good looking loads, like your lorry:thumbs:

    It'd make a great scratch building project in 1/32.....

    Simon
     
    Italian Fruit Van (from scratch)
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    After much fiddly detailing, I'm happy that this is complete above solebar level. More sub-solebar stuff to do now but that should be reasonably straightforward, if, in this case, a bit representational.

    Italian_Ferry_011.gif

    The U-shaped steps were an engrossing challenge. I could have tried bending angle into the appropriate shapes but bending that in two planes without significant distortion is not simple and the results are unlikely to be robust. In 4mm, one can get away with bending strip - etch waste - into a 'U' and then adding the joggle into the solebar. The legs of the 'U' are overlong and plug into holes drilled in the floor: the fun part is to bend 0.45mm wire to match and then solder it in place! Having managed this two-in-two, I then squared everything off and stuck them on before they could vanish. It's all looking promising at present, so fingers crossed...

    Adam
     
    Rumney Models/LIMA milk tank
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    Having played around with things that are meant to stand still. by way of a change I've made a start (oh dear, another one) on something new, and complicated, on wheels. Complicated for several reasons: it's got six wheels, I'm using bits that were never intended to go together and it replicates a notoriously varied and complex class of vehicles.

    The subject? A GW dia. O56 milk tank, this one in fact, roller bearings and all: Britain's railway wagons | W3076

    The ingredients?
    • A LIMA milk tank which, to be fair to LIMA has several good things going for it, notably the size and details of the tank and some nice springs with a reasonable attempt at the brake gear, considering what was typical at the time. Despite this, I'm just going to use the tank, fittings (perhaps the springs) and perhaps supports. It was also very cheap.
    • A Rumney Models chassis and detailing etch. This was intended to supplement the kit from David Geen so doesn't include a few of the bits David had done but which @jjnewitt would usually add - solebars, for example, though the signs are that if Justin gets around to releasing the SR milk tank shown here these bits will - but also some of the brake arms. These were less cheap(!) but very good.
    I think I've broken the back of the major alterations required to the chassis etch and the current state of play can be seen below.

    Milk_003.jpg

    The basic chassis folds up very easily in the manner of all Justin's bits and I didn't deviate from the instructions here barring adding a few bits of brass angle to retain the springs; this works better for me since I can't abide maintaining things once I've built them... The backing plates for the axleboxes are a separate etch, also available from Justin, while the solebars and headstocks (David Geen provides these in whitemetal so they're not included here) are made from a combination of 3mm x 1.5mm angle and some scrap etch soldered under the half-etched platework. I did it this way because the real thing has 10" solebars - the scrap etch makes up the top flange on the solebars and the bottom flange on the headstocks.

    Milk_002.jpg

    This angle shows a bit more of the detail - and reminds you all that I haven't a hope in Hades of joining the invisible solder gang any time soon - and yet more should be visible from underneath:

    Milk_001.jpg

    For reference, I have since snipped the centre section of the brake linkage away. This is all but invisible and when in place, prevents the installation of wheels! While some of the cranks for the linkages and brake levers are included, most of this detail is what David Geen will sell you. Happily, Justin's instructions have drawings which, while intended to show what goes where, also allow scaling of the bits that are missing: swing links outside the axles, where the linkages go, that sort of thing. This ensured that I could manufacture the remaining bits and raid a Masokits coach brake detailing etch for the rest.

    Having built quite a few of Justin's chassis now, I have a pretty good idea of how he uses key bits of the brake assemblies to hang the tricky bits off and while the first set of swing links was a pain, the second were basically constructed using the linkages as a scaffold and the whole thing, while extremely fiddly is also quite robust. That said, I'll still be relieved when I've got the brake levers on and can concentrate on the tank restraining strap fittings. I've also thought about getting the thing round corners, but more of that anon.

    Adam
     
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    Warwell Bolster
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    After a week away in Gloucestershire, a couple of steps forward or a review of the state of play with various things. First, the horsebox:

    LMS_Horse_004.gif

    It's been a bit of a struggle to find enough light today so this view from underneath shows up what I've done, including new wheels (Gibsons - like @Geoff I found the path of least resistance was to pop these onto the original Hornby axles: less hassle than fiddling with deepening axle holes or fitting brass bearings/compensation). The brake shoes are next on the agenda along with steam heat pipes, just about the only thing Hornby haven't included. I'm of a bit of a loss for things to do to it! I can also show that I've completed my copperclad crossover, and the plastic one for that matter, and amused myself this morning by pushing stock through it. Testing?

    Copper_Clad_002.gif

    One victim is this newly converted Warwell (the Oxford Rail version).

    Warwell_002.jpg

    Another with short axles and bogies which are consequently too narrow (the Hattons one has the same feature). Why the Oxford version? Well , while the Hattons one is more accurately liveried, has better detail below the frames (where you can't really see it), and a greater range of options for the subsequent conversions into bogie bolsters, flats, etc. As it happens, it's a Bogie Bolster B conversion that I'm after which Oxford don't do. Why the Oxford one? Well, partly it's the buffers of the Liverpudlian product are naff, and partly it's because the bolsters aren't very well-defined and aren't correctly mounted - they were riveted to the frames on the real thing rather than bolted on top of the deck planks (so yes, I reckon I can do better) and also that there's a reasonable price differential, increased by not having to buy replacement buffers... For a straight Warwell, the Hattons product is probably the better model, however.

    Warwell_003.jpg

    So here's the basic conversion. The wheels are the originals reduced on the minidrill and placed on spare 26mm pinpoint axles because the real wagons have 'lowmac'-size wheels an I had none in stock. The frames have been re-spaced by an ugly but effective method which on epoxy rather too much for my liking. It'll be fine, but it's not reliable enough to use as an example to anyone! Brass subframes from Masokits or similar would almost certainly be a better, more reliable option and give you springing if you wanted it. The livery on this example is utterly bizarre and may - charitably - be replicating something seen in preservation. The white buffer heads are especially interesting but since I'm going to repaint the thing completely, no matter.

    Adam
     
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    Warwell Bolster
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    Well it's a bit late to go back now...

    Warwell_006.jpg

    The way this model breaks down is that the running gear is mounted on a separate floor pan which, once levered out (it's secured by a pair of screws amidships) allows the centre to be hacked out and the planks to be trimmed and filed back to frame top level. A new sub-floor will be added between the frames and a layer of scribed 40 thou' with cutouts for the bolster bases which will sit on said floor. Planks also need to be laid a little way up the ramps, too so the remaining plank will gain an overlay to bring it up to height. Meanwhile, at the ends, vac' pipes and couplings have appeared and, below, you can see what I've done to the bogies: bodgetastic.

    Warwell_004.jpg

    Warwell_005.jpg

    By the by, the floorpan has some bearers moulded in at one end to keep the wagon level so I've taken care to arrange the scraps of brass such that they don't interfere. While we're in a bogie bolster sort of mood...

    SR_Borail_001.jpg

    The first substantive work on my Cambrian SR Borail for quite some time; the shackles are from a 51L etch (I didn't buy enough; there's 16 each side so I'm 8 short...) which are much finer and hopefully more durable than the mouldings Cambrian supply. These are mounted on the ends of spare etched links from Masokits screw couplings - I have loads of these and they're exceptionally useful - superglued into 0.5mm holes. The shackles were squeezed into place and soldered in place ready for the finished wagon to have its load chained on. Those axleboxes need a bit of fettling to better match the real thing, I think.

    SR_Borail_002.jpg

    Up top, I've replaced the bolsters themselves with something that better-matches the drawings in SR Wagons IV.


    Adam
     
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    Warwell Bolster
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    Peckett: The Marshal
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    Returning to my Peckett, last mentioned here, I picked up the soldering iron yesterday and did a bit more. Having made up the rods, I've fitted hornguides and bearings, one set from High Level, another scratched up from scrap brass, L section and what I think are Perseverance square bearings - this part of a batch I did ages ago - and fitted a dummy firebox bottom between the frames. All this does is to serve a view block hiding the gearbox and there's no real need for additional detailing because it's all pretty well hidden. Compensation beam next...

    Peckett_018.gif

    Peckett_019.gif

    The body really should be at the final detailing stage and is, more or less, but I wasn't in the mood for pipework so I fitted the steps which are nice bits of design with a supplied triangular bracket located in half etched grooves. Being in thick nickel silver, they are extremely robust!

    Peckett_020.gif

    Adam
     
    Peckett: The Marshal
  • AJC

    Western Thunderer
    Real progress. I've added sandpipes, the front set mounted on the chassis, the rear on the underside of the footplate, but more to the point, that chassis as a whole has been primed, painted and wheeled. As such, I couldn't resist the opportunity to pop the body on to see how the eventual loco' will appear. Today's bright sunshine emphasises the rather scruffy job I've made of this - even by my standards this is a bit rough...


    Peckett_021.gif

    Peckett_022.gif

    Peckett_023.gif

    Once the paint has hardened off, it'll be time for mechanical set up and then sorting out pick ups before I look to final detailing of the body, prior to banishing the solder smears under paint.

    Adam
     
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