BR green Warships and Westerns

[28ten]

 

[Simon Dunkley]

Yes, but due to being over a larger, potentially flatter area, with different lining (if any), possibly a different final finish (fewer coats of undercoat, paint, varnish and rubbing down) and the effects of carriage washing plants, etc, it almost certainly did not look the same!

So, who knows, really? The only way to get it right is to paint the model using a photo as reference, under the same lighting conditions (did I not mention them in the list above?) as were the case when the photo was taken, and to display the model in the same conditions. But you may need to somehow compensate for the fading of the print/negative/dyes, and the fact that a model has a much smaller surface area which will have an impact on the perception of colour...

Wouldn't worry about it too much: if it is roughly the right shade to your eyes, it probably is.

 

[iploffy]

I have to agree with mr Dunkley It also depends on the light it's viewed in If you want to compare you, cant the only authentic BR green Locomotive left is in Birmingham science museum and that is only because it was overhauled to go into preservation.

Ian

 

[28ten]

I had always thought it was the same, but I have just been asked to spray a model 'hydraulic green' by somebody who insists it was different  I think I shall pass on that one, its going to be more trouble than its worth 
I notice JLTRT sell WR loco Maroon which is supposedly a different shade from coach maroon.....

 

[Ressaldar]

A friend recently took delivery of 7014 Caerhays Castle and didn't agree with the BR Green finish that he was presented with - it had been finished by one of the better known painters. After various discussions, he contacted another expert for 'guidance' who responded with over four options for the same colour - so where do you go from there?

regards

Mike

 

[Simon Dunkley]

Well, I usually go to Halfords and buy a fairly near match from their paint range...

VW Marine blue, for example, is a perfect match for GER blue from at least one of the series of railway colours produced over the years, Damask red for MR/LMS/BR crimson lake, Balliol blue for BR monastral blue...  I am sure there are more!

Edit: I may one day use the airbrush I bought about 8 years ago, but don't hold your breath!

 

[Simon Dunkley]

One further thought/observation, but GWR grean waethered to black (partly due to cleaning with oily rags) but the BR versions of Brunswick green did not seem to do this.

Complete minefiled - caveat emptor when purchasing paints!

 

[28ten]

Hi Simon :wave:

I know the feeling

I find that some of those paints can suffer from orange peel effect - worse with the newer acrylics - how do you find them?

TTFN :wave:

Try spraying acrylics at about 40psi it cures the gritty paint finish, also a little retarder can help. My preferred paint for body work is cellulose sprayed through the airbrush at lowish pressure, im no pro but I can get tolerable results most of the time, which is why I get asked to do these little jobs .
As a range I actually think the JLTRT are pretty good and you can always spray a test card and get it matched at the local paint supplier  8)

 

[Ressaldar]

Well, I usually go to Halfords and buy a fairly near match from their paint range...

As I said in the thread, Halfords Rover Brunswick Green went on the West Country. followed by Railmatch Satin Varnish with a few drops of weatherd black mixed in - it not only tones down the gloss, but also gives the 'oiled clean' look as well.

regards

Mike

 

[Simon Dunkley]

I find that some of those paints can suffer from orange peel effect - worse with the newer acrylics - how do you find them?

Hi Martin,

I prefer cellulose, to be honest. The last loco I painted with them took 3 attempts before I was happy. I have them to work best under the following conditions:
Still, warm summer's day;
Loco recently scrubbed very clean with Vim (or similar, hot water, and a rinse with hot water;
Loco heated in a very low oven - OK for metal, can be dodgy for plastic (ask Chris Lamacraft! MRJ 31), to about 40 or 50 deg;
Slightly "wet" application of the paint, and then back in the oven to harden off quickly.

It's been a while since I got that far with anything: one day I am going to (have to) get to grips with my Badger airbrush...

 

[Phill Dyson]

Hydraulic Green ?..............bo**ocks  .
BR green like most colours will fade to a 1001 shades depending on how long they have been on & exposed to the sunlight ( in the case of Hydraulics Laira's washing plant had quite an effect too  8)). BR colour shades were dictated by the BR board/Design panel weren't they ?
Green Hymeks were painted at Beyer Peacock in Manchester, Warships at Swindon & green Westerns were painted at Crewe, but the thing they had in common is they were all BR green  ??? : ;D

 

[Ressaldar]

Hydraulic Green ?..............bo**ocks  .
Green Hymeks were painted at Beyer Peacock in Manchester, Warships at Swindon & green Westerns were painted at Crewe, but the thing they had in common is they were all BR green  ??? : ;D

.......................but unfortunately, not from the same tin :vista: :vista: :vista: - hence the problem.

seasons greetongs

Mike

 

[Simon Dunkley]

.......................but unfortunately, not from the same tin :vista: :vista: :vista: - hence the problem.

The formula was to  specified standard, and would have been reasonably consistent on new locos: the other effects mentioned would have far more impact on the variations in service.

 

[Phill Dyson]

.......................but unfortunately, not from the same tin :vista: :vista: :vista: - hence the problem.

seasons greetongs

Mike

No but using the same green specified by the BR board as Simon says I would think, I certainly never saw much variation in colour other than the fading with age, washing plants etc :scratch:

Seasons greetings to you & your family too 

Phill  :wave: