Hobby Holidays Leaf Springs

smallsy

Member
Hi everyone,

At the Railex show this year I purchased the leaf springs that Phil produces. I did a quick search of the postings on this forum and couldn't find any postings by anyone who's built and installed them.

Surely there must be someone...maybe?

If you have, any pointers, hints, tips, or maybe even some photos?
Cheers
Ben
 
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Ian_C

Western Thunderer
Well, not exactly. But I've done something similar with the etched phosphor bronze leaf springs on an MMP kit. Took some faff to make them work . I looked at the HH springs and they seem to have addressed one of the main issues on the MMP springs by etching out the insides of some of the leaves. My observations are on RM Web, for what it's worth.
MMP 1/108 - part 7 - more springs and a result

I'll follow your progress with interest.
 

djparkins

Western Thunderer
Well, not exactly. But I've done something similar with the etched phosphor bronze leaf springs on an MMP kit. Took some faff to make them work . I looked at the HH springs and they seem to have addressed one of the main issues on the MMP springs by etching out the insides of some of the leaves. My observations are on RM Web, for what it's worth.
MMP 1/108 - part 7 - more springs and a result

Ian -

Yes and so are mine - but once again you have ignored the long explanation I have made to you and so many times before on here & elsewhere in build threads. You will be hard put to have scale thickness springs that respond in the way you want. Ours are not mean't to do that and we have never said they will do it. You cannot scale mass.

Firstly they are individual springs that will look better than a casting and as I mentioned before, a further cosmetic dividend will be had by running a blade along the upper and lower edges of what will be the outer faces of each spring. All of our springs, whether 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 leaf will work in EXACTLY the same way since only the top unit carries any load and if the ends are crimped around the wire in the shackle points correctly [something I've never seen done on any build] they will fall and rise at rail joints etc and keep all the wheels on the track at all times.

Now you can say that this is really compensation not springing and that is true but since it is the top leaf spring that is doing the work not a piece of wire hidden somewhere, they ARE, to that extent [and to that extent only] working leaf springs. Still you insist that they should work as you intend, not as we intend. Your build link does not address a problem in our kit, so much as create a new one for yourself and then overcome it.

True, we do mention Erik Olsen's work in our instructions but these do seem to require too much weight to be added to the wagon [especially in the context of a long train]. As I recall he did it on a long wheelbase covered vehicle. On a 16T Mineral wagon there is virtually no scope to add weight if running the wagon empty [as you are bound to want to do at times] unless you add it within the bays of the chassis. You would not want to do this to an MMP wagon however, as the level of chassis detail is much of the point of buying the kit in the first place and it will always look a mess.

Sorry for the partial thread hijack!

Regards

DJP/MMP
 

smallsy

Member
Hi everyone,

Thanks to Ian and DJP for replying- and DJP don't apologise for hijacking. This is all about discussion and idea-sharing as well as peer-evaluation; add your thoughts to the mix freely.

Ian- I looked at the page you sent me to on RMWeb- thank you kindly for that (I hadn't seen it before). I was immediately struck by the thickness of the leaves you have on your wagon. I don't have a pair of vernier calipers to check the thickness of the Hobby Holidays springs but I would hazard a guess they are almost identical in thickness to the top two leaves on your springs- the ones you have filed down considerably. If anything, I am unsurprised that you had all that faffing to do with such heavy springs under your wagon. Granted, I will happily admit this is new territory for me. If anything, buying these spring etches was a trial and error thing- if it works well, fantastic; if it does not, then at least I tried.

In comparison to Erik Olsen's work and the HH ones, the HH ones have a lot of material etched away from the middle parts of the leaves which can only have a positive impact on the tension it will provide when finally assembled. I'm sorry DJP I'm not aware of the MMP ones offered in the kits so I can't speak of them with any sort of surety. Equally, I too think that Erik's wagons are probably weighted on the heavier side. Phil's approach is to provide cast whitemetal floorboards for the 4-wheel open wagon he produces which deftly provides the necessary weight and hides it as well.

Thanks
Ben
 
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