7mm On Heather's Workbench - Dean Triplets

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Thanks Peter!

Yes, the kits included both kinds of rod. The sandy coloured stuff was too big for the thin pipes. Ordinarily I would have used wire, but I wanted to see if the styrene rod would work effectively.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Still waiting for the transfers to complete the full brake, but I have pressed on with some mild weathering on the other two.

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As ever, I'm going for subtle. The plan is to give an impression of tired but cared for, running a branch line service in the twilight of their years. Can you spot the grime in the bits that are hard to reach with a damp mop?
 

JimG

Western Thunderer
Re Slater's rod there are two sorts of it - you have the old style in a red/brown colour - the other and present I think colour is a dull sand colour - that is much better and does not split when cut. I think its softer, but is can snap with tight bends - use a pair of round nose pliers to assist it to behave.

Peter,

The only problem with the new type is that you can't do George Slater's party trick of forming dome ends on the rod with his cigarette end. It is/was a good method of forming rivet heads for the larger scale models although I could never get the method to work with the 10thou rod. I hang onto what red/brown rod I have just in case I want more dome heads. I stopped smoking several years ago, but a candle performs the same service.:)

Jim.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
... I'm going for subtle. The plan is to give an impression of tired but cared for, running a branch line service in the twilight of their years.
I recollect, from one of our telephone conversations, that these coaches had not been painted in at least four or five years and so the weathering needs to reflect probable deterioration in the finish.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I recollect, from one of our telephone conversations, that these coaches had not been painted in at least four or five years and so the weathering needs to reflect probable deterioration in the finish.

This is true, but I have to weigh that against what the client wants as well. He was happy for mild weathering but not advanced decay.

There are some patches where paint flaked away after masking, which have been retouched. You can see these areas under close inspection.
 

Peter Bunce

Active Member
Peter,

The only problem with the new type is that you can't do George Slater's party trick of forming dome ends on the rod with his cigarette end. It is/was a good method of forming rivet heads for the larger scale models although I could never get the method to work with the 10thou rod. I hang onto what red/brown rod I have just in case I want more dome heads. I stopped smoking several years ago, but a candle performs the same service.:)

Jim.
Hi Jim,

Agreed, when you have run out of the old rod have you heard of Archer transfers?

See http://www.archertransfers.com/AR88001.html

They are resin rivet heads on a clear transfer sheet of various sizes.

RMWeb has a topic on them at

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2599-archers-transfers-rivets/

The other alternative is a drop weight - see http://www.londonroadmodels.co.uk/, and goto components - there is a 'gravity powered rivet embossing tool' intended for pushing the rivets out in etched brass kits. I have used it a lot on plasticard and it works well.

The only 'down side' is marking them all out the Mason Bogies have masses of the rivets on the tenders! Not forgetting the other locos which are trying to catch up with the rivet numbers - these were 'riveted' onto 20 thou plasticard, with the drop weight. Dividers helped then its place lift weight and thud as it drops: lay the sheet on some vinyl tile to emboss them with naturally the reverse of the sheet on top.

With your smaller scale a finer grind to the point may help: the height of the weight drop is adjustable as the shaft has a screw thread on it with a couple of nuts to keep the setting.

Yours Peter.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
The final stage relied on some replacement transfers from CPL to arrive in time. Well, Postie's been and gone, and no sign of the recorded package. Plan B is called for.

You may recall the issue was I botched a pair of the heraldic supporters on one side of the full brake. My remaining option, short of leaving them off and sending the replacements to the client for him to apply later, is to do what they did on the real thing - paint it by hand.

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Here are what the transfers look like. They are rather superb, and come from the Tony Reynalds range. My task is to recreate an impression - which is essentially what these transfers are - in paint.

First of all, I got the loupe out and worked out what I was trying to reproduce. The left hand supporter is a kind of extended bird's wing, with the Red Cross of St George, sitting on a kind of red and white barber's pole affair. The right supporter is a more complex design of what appears to be two entwined human arms, holding a blue snake on the left and a balance scales on the right, supported on a blue cushion and the barber's pole thing.

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I opted to do this job in watercolours. Pragmatically, if I messed up I can wipe the slate clean with a damp cotton bud. Incidentally, I find a dab of paint wiped off quickly primes the painted surface to accept the watercolour paint. Applied directly to the model the paint tends to ball up.

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I started off with white gouache, which has a slightly denser consistency than normal watercolour paint. I am happier with the left supporter in general shape, while the right supporter is much more impressionistic. Let's add some colour.

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Well, I've seen worse. I don't think the foreman signwriter will be trusting me with bigger jobs for a while yet, but I'm fairly happy.

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Here's the completed effect. From any normal viewing distance I think my efforts pass adequately. A quick dose of satin varnish to seal the watercolour, and then I'll complete the weathering on this vehicle.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
With the last stroke of the brush I deem this build complete. All that remains is to take the official portraits.

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The T34 Brake Third and U4 First/Third Composite in their shabby glory.

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The third class compartments of the T34.

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T34 portrait from the luggage end.

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The brake third's compartment end from the other side.

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The gas light control end of the V5 full brake.

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The full brake side view.

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The First and Third Class smoking compartments of the composite.

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The composite general view.

To recap, these three coaches came to me as one partly built, one built and terribly painted, and one unbuilt. I've had to disassemble, strip paint, repair and rebuild the first two as best I can, and build up the last as Slater's intended.

Almost all the parts used were in the kits. I've had to supplement one or two of the door furniture castings where they had gone AWOL from the boxes, and some of the end details - which is why the corner lamp brackets a different on two of the coaches: they are CPL etches as the Slater's ones were simply gone. The lost wax brass couplings are from the Bits Box, origins now lost to history. The transfers used are CPL waterslide and spirit fix. The grilles in the luggage compartment doors are also from CPL. Microscope glass slide glazing completes the ensemble - much better than the hazy plastic sheet supplied.

What have I learned from this build? Quite a bit about pre-War GWR coach liveries! I've learned I need a better bow pen, and I also need to pay much more attention to the surface finish before painting begins. I have also learned that I desperately underestimate how long it takes for me to do things. I also need to clean a lot of stray fibres off the finished models, left over from the weathering process.

Valuable lessons learned. What's next? I think I'll be back on the broad gauge for a spell, although I do need to sort out a schedule that lets most of the builds progress steadily, rather than get bogged down on one at a time.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Thanks everyone!

I've grown rather fond of these little coaches in an odd kind of way. I hope their owner enjoys playing with them as much as I have building them.
 

John Miller

Western Thunderer
A truly inspirational thread! - many thanks for all the exrta time it took to document the build so well.

I like the sponsorship on the 'smoking' signs - not for today of course - but totally appropriate for the period ... :)
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Cheers John!

What I should have done is show how I resurrected the gummed up buffers without the right parts in the box. Perhaps that can wait for another day.

The client now has his coaches, and now I'm back from a weekend of playing trains I need to sort out the workbench.
 
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