GT3 Gas turbine project
- Thread starter Bagpuss
- Start date
Bagpuss
Western Thunderer
I have made a start on removing the cab windows from the surplus moulding and cleaned up.
Any advice on the best way to paint the window frames nice and cleanly would be much appreciated, also what is the best glue to stick them in with that will not react with resin window. This is an all new small size and modelling medium to me so any help is much appreciated.
Also it was suggested in the note that accompanied the windows that a coat of clear varnish would help them. They are a bit opaque as can be seen but they were the best that could be produced at the time.
Any advice on the best way to paint the window frames nice and cleanly would be much appreciated, also what is the best glue to stick them in with that will not react with resin window. This is an all new small size and modelling medium to me so any help is much appreciated.
Also it was suggested in the note that accompanied the windows that a coat of clear varnish would help them. They are a bit opaque as can be seen but they were the best that could be produced at the time.
Overseer
Western Thunderer
I was going to suggest polishing the windows instead of varnishing them. It will only work if the resin (clear polyurethane?) is not milky all the way through. Try T-Cut or similar. Aircraft modellers usually mask the canopies to paint them, there are lots of aftermarket producers of die cut masks to suit aircraft, but you will need to cut your own from Tamiya, or other low tack, masking tape.
Maybe a thin wash of dark brown/black paint on the inside of the windows might disguise the milkyness.
Maybe a thin wash of dark brown/black paint on the inside of the windows might disguise the milkyness.
Bagpuss
Western Thunderer
Thank you for the tips I will have a look at the spare bit to see if the milkiness is all the way through. What sort of glue is safe to use with them?
Overseer
Western Thunderer
One of the model aircraft canopy glues should work, such as R/C Modellers Canopy Glue or Zap do a canopy glue as well.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
For polishing glazing (or metal for that matter) I use the padded finger nail buffing/polishing sticks available from supermarkets and chemists.
Personally I'd make a new set of glazing from clear acrylic sheet.
Personally I'd make a new set of glazing from clear acrylic sheet.
Bagpuss
Western Thunderer
Have today been trying to add the BR logo to the tender. This has not gone as well as I had hoped it would. The transfers just dont seem to want to stick to the paint they dry out but then dont seem to be stuck. Has any one had this problem. I got them from Fox trasfers.
Any advice much apricaiated as I am not even happy with how they look. Dont want varnish them as not sure it will even work.
Any advice much apricaiated as I am not even happy with how they look. Dont want varnish them as not sure it will even work.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
For best results waterslide decals need to be applied to a gloss surface. Below is my approach which may assist.
If you've retained the backing sheet for the large logo I would remove the decal from the tender and slide it back onto the backing sheet to reuse. If not slide it onto greaseproof or wax paper if you want to reuse it.
Apply a thin gloss varnish to the tender sides. If it were me I would also be removing most of the carrier film from between the white double arrow.
Once the gloss varnish has dried slide the decal back onto the tender side. When applying decals I use Microset and Microsol from Microscale Decals (widely available in the UK). Others are available.
Microset acts as a wetting agent by breaking the water surface tension. It is a very mild acetic acid (white vinegar) and helps the decal lay flat.
Once I have the decals in position I brush them with Microsol being careful not to move them in the process and leave to dry. As it says on the bottle it softens the decal and draws it over irregular surfaces e.g. rivets. Once dry I apply a coat of varnish.
I have used both solutions successfully on Fox Transfer decals - LONDON TRANSPORT and the yellow lining (7mm O gauge). Here I only applied gloss varnish to the area where the decals were to be applied. They were sealed with satin varnish and weathered.
These are Microscale and Champ decals I've applied to a 1:48 (O scale) boxcar with HYDRA-CUSHION FOR FRAGILE FREIGHT being one decal. Here they are applied on a gloss surface.
Then varnished and weathered.
If you've retained the backing sheet for the large logo I would remove the decal from the tender and slide it back onto the backing sheet to reuse. If not slide it onto greaseproof or wax paper if you want to reuse it.
Apply a thin gloss varnish to the tender sides. If it were me I would also be removing most of the carrier film from between the white double arrow.
Once the gloss varnish has dried slide the decal back onto the tender side. When applying decals I use Microset and Microsol from Microscale Decals (widely available in the UK). Others are available.
Microset acts as a wetting agent by breaking the water surface tension. It is a very mild acetic acid (white vinegar) and helps the decal lay flat.
Once I have the decals in position I brush them with Microsol being careful not to move them in the process and leave to dry. As it says on the bottle it softens the decal and draws it over irregular surfaces e.g. rivets. Once dry I apply a coat of varnish.
I have used both solutions successfully on Fox Transfer decals - LONDON TRANSPORT and the yellow lining (7mm O gauge). Here I only applied gloss varnish to the area where the decals were to be applied. They were sealed with satin varnish and weathered.
These are Microscale and Champ decals I've applied to a 1:48 (O scale) boxcar with HYDRA-CUSHION FOR FRAGILE FREIGHT being one decal. Here they are applied on a gloss surface.
Then varnished and weathered.
Bagpuss
Western Thunderer
Thank you for this advice, I have never had a problem with water slide transfers that come with kits even on a mat finish. So did not expect to have a problem this time. Will have to see if I can get some of the micro set.
Thanks much appreciated. Thats if I keep them as not sure if I like the affect of the large logo now I have tried them.
Thanks much appreciated. Thats if I keep them as not sure if I like the affect of the large logo now I have tried them.
Overseer
Western Thunderer
I find Micro Sol very useful for decals, Micro Set a lot less so. The large logo does look a bit lost without the large numbers and yellow cabs of the large logo livery. Perhaps etched stainless steel double arrows as used on the 25kV electrics would look classier. Not sure whether they would be mounted on the loco or tender, I would have suggested the cab side but the GT3 plates are in the way.
Bagpuss
Western Thunderer
I have decided that the large logo just does not look right I was going to add a number on the Loco. But I have gone off the idea. All though the dark blue seems to work I think. Silver arrows is one possibility. Will leave it with out the double arrow for now. The ones I tried to add have not stayed on.
Thinking of making some sort of small box file or micro layout to pose and run my locomotives in and out of. I have a few OO gauge engines and rolling stock but no layout and not much room for one.
Bagpuss
Western Thunderer
Been having a play with a few bits of track and an old box file. The idea is to perhaps make a yard arrangement with a bridge where the tracks come in to the file and retaining walls also a relief workshop. Some track or a selector so that the trains can run in and out of the box.
