7mm Ressaldar's kit building swansong - Class 22

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
before I throw the towel into the ring on kit building and while my eyes seem to be up to it, I have started an MM1 Class 22. This one, but perhaps not quite as dirty

D6326 Oxford September 69 Slide 1015

No doubt it will spur Dapol on to produce a RTR version in superquick time to coincide with the varnish drying on my effort but if it does, then I will get one for the hell of it.

Slow start in as much as the wheels (Slater's) have been blackened

IMG_0792.jpg

and trial fitted to the bogies and now that the bearings have had their outside faces filed down, I have a free running pair of bogies and I can consider what type of pick-ups (fitted to both bogies) to go for, with wipers being favourite at the moment. I shall be using a single Slater's GB13 gearbox with a Canon EN22 motor and delrin drive hooked up to a Zimo MX645 decoder with stay alive and a pair of speakers.

More to follow in the not too distant - I hope.

regards

Mike
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Hi Mike, I have a soft spot for 22s and was one of the Muppets that parted with money for the LLC project that died a sudden death. Will be watching with interest. Must admit I'm quietly waiting for Dapol to do their 4mm offering in 7mm.
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Chris,

Yes,I too have a soft spot for them, but didn’t go as far as you did with LLC.

I think that I will take my time with these bogies as some redesign might be needed to allow the chassis blocks seen above to be bolted to the outer sides and ends for maintenance purposes rather than the superglue fixing in the instructions. There is also the question of thinking ahead as to what needs painting before things get too involved.

This kit is one of the current batch with 3D printed parts in lieu of lost wax castings. The quality of the 3D printing seems ok but I reserve final judgement until I start fixing things together - not least of all my fingers!

stay safe and well

Mike
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
No doubt it will spur Dapol on to produce a RTR version in superquick time to coincide with the varnish drying on my effort
I sold my Steve Beattie 22 a few years ago now when the JLTRT kit came out, and the rumour was that Dapol would do one R-T-R not long after. Ho hum.

I have a soft spot for 22s and was one of the Muppets that parted with money for the LLC project that died a sudden death.
Likewise; two up-front payments that were supposed to be the bulk of the total price of the model.
Fingers burnt & lesson learned. Crowd funding? Never again - ever.

Will enjoy watching this build. :thumbs:
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Decided, for a change, to follow the instructions and the next item was to fabricate the bogie swivel plates (the only soldering in the kit) and set aside for later use. Next was the bogie sides which are formed as a pair and they can only be fitted onto the chassis block in one way

IMG_0794.jpg

here they are just fitted as a push fit, there is a spigot at each end which fits into a corresponding hole in the chassis block and as I said above, there is only one way for each side to go.

IMG_0796.jpg

here you can see the join line

IMG_0797.jpg

and the view from below.

I am investigating the possibility of using a 6mm x 0-5mm brass strip 40mm long on the top surface, set 3mm back from the face of the front of the bogie (it fits between the sand box filler caps) held in place by 4 No. 10BA countersunk bolts. The nuts should be unobtrusive seeing that they will be painted black and to all intents and purposes, will be out of sight and in the dark.

regards

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Investigation by-passed and I went for it!!

IMG_0799.jpg

a cruel close up showing how much is dangling below the frame, I may file the excess thread back to just short of the nut, I may try and get some half nuts from Items which will reduce the depth again. I think that I should get away with it.

IMG_0800.jpgsame end seen from above also seen are the bogie pivot plates for both bogies, the hot stick has now been put away for the duration.

IMG_0801.jpg

showing both ends. The extra hole in the top plate was for the option of a single bolt solution, but I prefer the belt and braces method.

Day off tomorrow as it is the Wife's birthday and she says I'm taking her shopping in the morning!!!!

regards

Mike
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Mike

In this instance I would use split axle pickup except for the motored axle.
I did this for a JLTRT 26 and it worked a treat.

Richard
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Mike

In this instance I would use split axle pickup except for the motored axle.
I did this for a JLTRT 26 and it worked a treat.

Richard
Hi Richard,

Never used split axles, think it's a bit late in the day to go down that route, will probably go for shorting out the wheels and doing American style - worked well for me in the past.

Stay safe and well

Regards

Mike
 

Andrew Thompson

Western Thunderer
Hi Mike
A bit late now have a look at Brain Daniels build on his Flickr site. Albums and then scroll through to JLTRT Class 22.

Andrew
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
I looked at the Brian Daniels 'album' and also read his build thread (which was kindly supplied by Daifly) and saw the 'variations on a theme' that were posted in that thread and came up with my version -

IMG_0802.jpg

all I have done really is use 14BA bolts in lieu of the various sizes used in the other solutions, mainly due to the fact that a) the holes already in the 'chassis block' to receive the spigots are 2mm dia. and it was easier to just increase the depth of those holes, just the right size for 14BA & b) I have a good supply of 14BA nuts and bolts and small as they are, they are only there to act as a means of stopping the spigot from coming out, there is no actual load on the bolt.

The spigots are 2mm brass rod, drilled 14BA clearance and superglued into the hole formed where the cast spigot had been.

IMG_0803.jpg

the 2mm vertical hole is just sufficient to allow both the head and the nut to be drawn down on to the spigot and be a snug fit, the bolt is then trimmed and cleaned up flush with the underside of the 'beam'. This set of bolts are sacrificial as the side beams need to be removed for the fittings to go on - easier off of the bogie than on.

There will now be a short intermission while I fit the MX699ks et al into the Class 31/4 and give that a good run before getting back to these bogies.

regards

Mike
 

Vulcan47

Member
I looked at the Brian Daniels 'album' and also read his build thread (which was kindly supplied by Daifly) and saw the 'variations on a theme' that were posted in that thread and came up with my version -

View attachment 147535

all I have done really is use 14BA bolts in lieu of the various sizes used in the other solutions, mainly due to the fact that a) the holes already in the 'chassis block' to receive the spigots are 2mm dia. and it was easier to just increase the depth of those holes, just the right size for 14BA & b) I have a good supply of 14BA nuts and bolts and small as they are, they are only there to act as a means of stopping the spigot from coming out, there is no actual load on the bolt.

The spigots are 2mm brass rod, drilled 14BA clearance and superglued into the hole formed where the cast spigot had been.

View attachment 147536

the 2mm vertical hole is just sufficient to allow both the head and the nut to be drawn down on to the spigot and be a snug fit, the bolt is then trimmed and cleaned up flush with the underside of the 'beam'. This set of bolts are sacrificial as the side beams need to be removed for the fittings to go on - easier off of the bogie than on.

There will now be a short intermission while I fit the MX699ks et al into the Class 31/4 and give that a good run before getting back to these bogies.

regards

Mike

Hi Mike,

This looks an interesting build. When you’ve time please could you show us some of the 3D printed parts in lieu of lost wax castings. I would be interested to see how they compare?

Regards,

Matt.
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Matt,

I will be sorting all of the 'bits' out tomorrow into little RUBs and will take some photos then and post them - trying to sort out a lighting problem on my 31/4 at present, i have a headlight which stays on regardless of direction!!

regards

Mike
 

Vulcan47

Member
Hi Mike,

Thank you! I’ll look forward to the photos.

I owned and built several JLTRT 7mm diesel kits back in the day and I’m aware these are now available again from MM1; but with 3D printed parts replacing most of the lost wax castings, hence my interest.

Best of luck with the 31/4.

Regards,

Matt.
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Matt,

herewith the photos as promised.....

IMG_0817.jpg
these are all of the 3D printed parts, generally quite good - there is a sprue of the door rails missing. The blue marks are from when I checked the box contents against the parts list.
IMG_0818.jpg
3D close up 1
IMG_0819.jpg
3D close up 2
IMG_0820.jpg
whitemetal castings
IMG_0823.jpg
lost wax castings middle right, stamped out coupling hooks (likely to be replaced) but draw gear itself isn't too bad bottom right, fuel tanks, bogie springs and buffer beams on left hand side in same (ABS type) material as the bogie frames and side beams
IMG_0827.jpg
main body parts in usual MM1 material
IMG_0829.jpg
Slaters GB13 gearbox and Canon EN22 motor, delrin chain and sprockets and bogie swivel plates made up ready for fitting.

I will be starting on the detailing of the bogies later in the week, so look out for pictures and thoughts then.

regards

Mike
 

Vulcan47

Member
Hi Mike,

Thank you for posting photographs of the MM1 Class 22 kit contents, which look impressive. I shall watch your kit building swan-song with interest.

It’s good to see some 7mm modern traction kit building, which seems less popular these days with the advent of ready to run models. I think kit built locos help to make model railway layouts more unique as opposed to those containing purely ready to run models, which offer less individuality.

It’ll be interesting to see if Dapol ever produce their OO gauge Class 22 in O gauge. I did ask them at a show prior to the pandemic. Unsurprisingly their response was vague. I assume like most model railway manufacturers they’re not keen to say anything unless a project’s going ahead. I’d have thought they’d be on to a winner personally, but I’m no expert.

Best regards,

Matt.
 
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Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Matt,

The next item on the agenda is to sort out sequencing, especially with regard to priming and painting before any assembly starts, the cab interiors and all that that involves, including installation of lights (and light tight boxes for the route indicators) and even the bogies as even though there is a disassembly routine sorted, it is best to carry out the assembly/disassembly as infrequently as possible. At least with only one bogie to be motorised, things are a little simpler.

Watch this space.

regards

Mike
 
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