7mm Loose Ends

28ten

Guv'nor
Preshading gives some depth to the shadows, it is over painted with thin coats

a couple of in progress shots, very rough as the paint was sitting in the airbrush cup ;)

Firstly you can see that the tricky edges and recesses where overspray can be a problem are painted first with very thin light coats. this is why i never use rattle cans the amount of paint being applied frightens me
IMG_1060.jpg

second shot shows it after a dozen or so thin coats and some of the paints used

IMG_1065.jpg

finally a blow up showing the grills and pre shading, you can achieve something similar with a wash, but it looks less natural for clean subject. the shot also shows the full depth of colour in the handrail recess, another dozen or so light coats tomorrow should do it. The work on the bodyside join seems to have paid off :)
IMG_1065-3.jpg
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Cynric,
Your technique looks great - but I'd expect nothing less...
Steph
I can claim no originality for it Aero and military have done it for years ;)

I did consider full modulation but i didnt feel a Wezzie was angular enough, having said that i used a darkened mix under the brow and the valance.
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
Evergreen strip .20x.20 irrc pre bend it to a hockeystick shape ( i have lasered an mdf former to check it against) then once it is well and truly set sand it back to make it .20x.10. the reason for doing it that way is thay you cant form the shape from .20x.10

Thanks Cynric. :thumbs: Any chance you could laser me one of those formers at some point too please? :)


Regards

Dan
 

lancer1027

Western Thunderer
D1000 looks EXCELLENT Cynric:bowdown:. I like the way you have weathered the frills before adding top coat:thumbs:.

Still think it should have been blue:rolleyes::)). Nice and sunny here but very windy.

Rob:)
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
I can claim no originality for it Aero and military have done it for years ;)

I did consider full modulation but i didnt feel a Wezzie was angular enough, having said that i used a darkened mix under the brow and the valance.

It still takes some care to make it work, I know as I've tried and failed! I'm convinced it'll add something to lift the relatively plain sides of the model...

Steph
 

alcazar

Guest
Go on then, I'll ask: what's full modulation when it's at home?

And I'd also be interested in lasered hockey sticks and masks for the windows....could you PM me a price if you are willing to do it? Thanks.
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Colour modulation
http://migjimenez.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/modulation-and-weathering.html I have decided to highlight some parts such as the line between the roof and bodyside with a slightly lighter mis, but with such a light body colour the shadows make the most difference.

Ill work out what bits I have cut, I know I have some stencils for preshading on file as well

It still takes some care to make it work, I know as I've tried and failed! I'm convinced it'll add something to lift the relatively plain sides of the model...

Steph
What sort of paint are you using? it is an easy technique as long as the paint for the top coat is thin.
 

28ten

Guv'nor
In between pre christmas stuff I managed the roof, possibly a little dark but it doesnt matter as it wont be staying like that. the body is at full colour and the preshading still works (phew!)

IMG_1070.jpg

A Hymek for company IMG_1072.jpg

Preparing the plates - I always know the end is in sight when I do this
IMG_1073.jpg

Reference material
IMG_1068.jpg

My one final conundrum is the yellow panel, I dont really want the panel but I know the grill is incorrect. I may yet turn a blind eye and it is easy enough to add the panel at a later date should my conscience dictate....
 

alcazar

Guest
Can't it have the red buffer-beam inset? 1000 carried that in 1962 with that colour scheme.

Also, whose plates are they? I didn't think the lion and wheel would lend themselves to etching and they don't really, do they?

The real thing was cast and VERY 3-D.
Perhaps someone could cast them in whitemetal?
 

28ten

Guv'nor
White metal is a bit clunky, neither option is ideal, I have drawing and 3d printing might be a better possibility, I dont have to fit it just yet.
 

28ten

Guv'nor
My conscience woke this morning and said yellow panel so....
IMG_1078.jpg

Im glad i did it now :) i might dust a little white filter over the yellow to lighten it a tad and the edges by the marker light need sharpening, but it seems satisfactory. obvious tip here is not to fit the headboard clips etc until the masking has been done, if you are doing full yellow panel its a cakewalk.
seeing the outdoor shots Im really pleases i chose Desert (Afrika Korps) sand for this one, a green one would be nice though.....

IMG_1083.jpg
 

28ten

Guv'nor
A couple of people asked how to mask the panel, simple, two pieces of masking tape on a bit of mdf, draw up the shape in autocad and into the laser. I use the outline, but when im doing Blue/grey coaches I do it the opposite way ie masking the grey and spraying the blue although it does work the opposite way.
IMG_1079.jpg

the other thing i that so far i have used my cheap airbrush as it has a .5 nozzle but for this sort of thing I break out the good 'brush (top). it is essential to get a fine spray away from the mask otherwise paint creeps under the mask and if you are too enthusiastic there is the likelihood of getting a paint ridge. as soon as the paint is on remove the mask dont leave it for days!

This method also works well for roundels, invasion stripes etc

IMG_1082.jpg
 

Simon

Flying Squad
That all looks absolutely terrific, in my current frame of mind it's also close to a compelling argument for 7mm over that big stuff that hardly anybody makes anything for:rolleyes:

Simon
 
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