Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Well, I had a go. Rather than use Peter's work, I’ve had a go at reproducing the first class moquette as used on the restored Bluebell Maunsells.

Using the photo references I linked to earlier, I did a bit of fiddling about in Affinity Designer.

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I began by drawing out a rough set of boxes to correspond with the Slater's seating actual size. That gave a target scale. The photo into the carriage compartment on the SREG web site showed how the pattern was aligned to the various seat cushions and armrests. My original scheme was to print out a sheet of pattern, and just stick it to each cushion as I went along. Since the pattern was retained across the upholstery, I’ve gone with trying to match it to the plastic seat itself.

Like most moquettes/carpets/fabric design, it’s a repeated pattern. I can’t reproduce the actual woven pattern at the final scale. It’s already hard enough to avoid getting bogged down with the enlarged view on screen! Trying to get it pixel perfect is a fool's errand, so I had to keep reminding myself the finished thing is an impression - nothing more.

F95E46B0-D423-4D08-B534-436F8151DA68.jpeg

Anyway, this is a test print. It’s in plain paper, and straight as the printer driver expected, with the Slater's seat placed for scale. I think the background blue is too dark, so I’ll tinker and make it a bit lighter and greyer. I’ll test it by applying it to an actual seat. I also need to try different print settings, although there’s enough pattern discernible to show something if you look for it. It’s an impression, rather than a true scale reproduction.

So, quite pleased with that as a first effort. I need to try something similar with the third class pattern. That is a smaller and more dense swirly pattern in darker pink and maroons, so that’ll be interesting to work out. Less need to align with cushions, though, which will be simpler!
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather,

here is my take on your problem - on the basis 'to me it seemed to fit the bill'. I found the patterns on Clip art and reduced and reduced and reduced until I thought that the 'pattern' was about to scale, then printed onto self adhesive labels then cut to size.

WP_20131209_003.jpg

these were for a Class 121 Bubble car, but they have also been used in many Inspection saloons.

Keep up the good work.

regards

Mike
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Pleased with my test example, I pressed ahead and created a third class moquette. A dark pinkish red base with numerous random squiggles in a darker maroon works well as an impression at this scale.

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I bought in some A4 self-adhesive labels just for this job, so I laid out enough blocks on a sheet to give me - hopefully, knowing how appalling my maths is - sufficient for all the required seating.

Studying interior photos also revealed there are upholstered arm rests screwed to the woodwork at each end of a seat. I don’t plan to reproduce those, but it struck me as an ideal use case for a 3D printer. If I was 10 years younger, I’d be right there. Sadly, I find my ability to learn and retain new software is very much on the wane.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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I realised making the entire seat cover in one block was probably a mistake. Because I had retained the original scaled outline of the seat features as a fine black line, I thought I could try splitting the patterns between seat back and the bolster. For the first class seats in particular, this made it a bit easier to align the pattern with the arm rests.

Each block is over size by about 3mm all round. To apply the printed sticker I carefully aligned the edge with the join between back and cushion, then gently rubbed the fleshy part of my thumb across the sticker until it was stuck down. To work into the moulded cushions I used thumbnail and a cocktail stick. The final act was to trim away the excess material with a sharp scalpel blade.

Slater's seats are, like most of their injection moulding, a bit flat. The real seats are a bit more rounded and plump. Still, they’re good enough for inside a coach, and I think my tests have proved my idea worked well. There is a little matter of applying squares of material to various side panels. I think I may measure things up and produce another sheet of material with the shape marked out.

I have to say I’m very pleased at how this worked out.
 
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oldravendale

Western Thunderer
I've used an anti UV spray on some of or daughter's drawings and art work, and it's worked so far - that's about 20 years. I can't remember which one we used, but alternatives are usually available from art shops. I found this on a five minute review on Google so there'll be others and possibly less expensive.

Krylon® UV-Resistant Matte Clear Coating 11oz Can

However, as you say, Heather, these coach interiors are hardly likely to be flooded with light at any time so I agree with you - would I bother? Probably not!

Brian
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
View attachment 138984

I realised making the entire seat cover in one block was probably a mistake. Because I had retained the original scaled outline of the seat features as a fine black line, I thought I could try splitting the patterns between seat back and the bolster. For the first class seats in particular, this made it a bit easier to align the pattern with the arm rests.

Each block is over size by about 3mm all round. To apply the printed sticker I carefully aligned the edge with the join between back and cushion, then gently rubbed the fleshy part of my thumb across the sticker until it was stuck down. To work into the moulded cushions I used thumbnail and a cocktail stick. The final act was to trim away the excess material with a sharp scalpel blade.

Slater's seats are, like most of their injection moulding, a bit flat. The real seats are a bit more rounded and plump. Still, they’re good enough for inside a coach, and I think my tests have proved my idea worked well. There is a little matter of applying squares of material to various side panels. I think I may measure things up and produce another sheet of material with the shape marked out.

I have to say I’m very pleased at how this worked out.

Excellent results Heather, well worth the effort.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Excellent results Heather, well worth the effort.

Thanks Chris! It will look great once the interior woodwork has been painted up. The hardest part was finding a suitable pattern to follow, which is where the WT massive came into their own. Once I had selected one, the actual creation only took a couple of hours all told. I used to do that kind of stuff all the time in a previous life, so it was just calling up how to do it from the lower memory registers.
 

GrahameH

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather,

When I scratch built my GWR coach as a trial build I took photographs on the GWR steam rail motor of the upholstery and reduced the image, printed onto self adhesive backed labels, sprayed with UV Resistant matt varnish and over a year has gone by without any noticeable change.
I don't foresee any problems to be honest due to the amount of light that actually gets through the finished models windows.

Grahame

IMG_4937.jpg
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
F8571686-B148-4A81-9E85-6547B7976675.jpeg

The old banger passed its MOT and has had an engine service, so it’s good to drive another fifty-odd miles this year. Today has been about fettling the buffer castings. They’re one of those jobs like the bogies: you just have to get on with it until it’s done, even if you hate them with all your might. The various half-mouldings for the roof and sides have been stuck together and tidied up. This kit was boxed in 2016, and judging by the amounts of flash I’m having to clean up on the plastic parts the mould is getting a bit tired.

With luck, a full day tomorrow will see most of the underframe assembled.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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Okay, so Friday didn’t turn out quite as hoped. I got the buffers installed, and added some underframe components earlier than the destructions suggest. This morning the U-channel bits have been done, plus the vac cylinders, reserve tanks and battery boxes assembled. I keep trying to put off the fiddly brass knitting, but it will have to come soon.
 
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