3D Printing - whether to buy, what to buy and how to use it?
ICH60
Western Thunderer
I uses a Saturn 8K and have had no problems just running with the Chitubox setting and printing at 0 degrees, just change the thickness 50, 30 or 20 micron. The only issue I found is warping issues. over time. Some warping worse than others.
ianlbsc
Western Thunderer
I use a Saturn 2 with Sirayatec fast in the normal range of colours - currently grey as I can buy 2kg bottles from Amazon at a reasonable price. Usually I print flat to the build plate but ensure there are holes for reducing suction forces. I have been using the Sirayatec given settings put into chitubox and have been very happy. These are just the print with a bit of etched brass not yet fitted.
and these are a few more parts just printed and getting ready to assemble the etched chassis and rods and a few other parts for each.
Some issues with the first tender flares, middle left, cured when I put a hole in the top for the tender dome and water filler, middle top and bottom left.
These are early Stroudley or late Craven locos for the LB&SCR. I am using Slaters wheels and their SG29 motor gearbox which I find I can fit almost anywhere. Just starting to draw the tender for the 2-4-0 and the necessary transfers for which I use two layers - white first layer using a ghost toner and then normal toner colour for the other colours, onto very thin waterslide paper. Works a treat.
I ensure there are holes in the boiler to drain the resin from inside the dome, s/v etc and a through hole for the chimney. Printed all at 0.05 layer height as per the recomendations. I used to print at 0.03 but haven't really noticed any loss of definition. Cheers, Ian
and these are a few more parts just printed and getting ready to assemble the etched chassis and rods and a few other parts for each.
Some issues with the first tender flares, middle left, cured when I put a hole in the top for the tender dome and water filler, middle top and bottom left.
These are early Stroudley or late Craven locos for the LB&SCR. I am using Slaters wheels and their SG29 motor gearbox which I find I can fit almost anywhere. Just starting to draw the tender for the 2-4-0 and the necessary transfers for which I use two layers - white first layer using a ghost toner and then normal toner colour for the other colours, onto very thin waterslide paper. Works a treat.
I ensure there are holes in the boiler to drain the resin from inside the dome, s/v etc and a through hole for the chimney. Printed all at 0.05 layer height as per the recomendations. I used to print at 0.03 but haven't really noticed any loss of definition. Cheers, Ian
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