P A D
Western Thunderer
Having completed the GCR 11F my intention was to crack on with 1:35 DR BR86 plastic kit. However, during one of my occasional visits to RMWeb, I spotted a 7mm Stanier 3P built by Mike Edge. He's developing a 4mm kit to add to the Judith Edge range and on the back of that, he knocked up a set of etchings in 7mm, to build one for a customer I believe. I've wanted one of these for a long time but with no kits available, I asked Mike if he would be making it available as a kit, but he said not, with his focus being to get the 4mm one to market .
However, I then received a PM from Mike offering me a second set of spare etchings at a very reasonable price. After some deliberations as to what castings I would need to source and what I had in the spares box, I accepted his offer. He's not too far from Warren, so after dropping off the 11F, I nipped over to Barnsley and picked up the etchings.
The body etch.
There's some half etch detail as well as lots of rivets to punch out, as can be seen on the reverse side.
And the frames etc.
Mike also included a resin casting for the smokebox door, which should fettle up nicely.
He missed off the boiler, expansion link brackets and balance weights from the frets, but has provided printed templates to assist in making these, so no bother. He has also provided some scale drawings from his cad file with side, top, front and rear elevations.
I decided to get the coupling rods done first as these needed modifying to articulate them. Mike built his with his usual compensation system so I don't know how that would work with rigid coupling rods and never thought to ask him. Here are the parts for the right hand side. Top is the rear laminate, then the outer laminate and below that the overlays for the middle and rear bosses. The front boss has a recess for extra clearance and no boss overlay .
The first job was to separate the dummy joint overlay from the centre boss overlay.
Then the overlay was soldered to the centre boss.
I then separated the rod at the joint with the piercing saw and tidied up. The joint overlay was then soldered to the rear rod and the rear rod laminate separated behind the joint.
I should point out that before any cuts were made, the rods were used to set up the spacing on the chassis jig. Here are the front rod laminates in the jig lined up for soldering. After tack soldering at either end the rod was clamped in the vice for soldering all round.
The front and back laminates plus the boss overlay on the rear rod were lined as before, tack soldered on the jig then completed in the vice. Here are the rods after joining. The parts for the left hand coupling rod are below
The completed right hand rod with the "corks" added from 0.5mm brass rod.
The procedure for the left hand side is just a mirror image of the right, but you have to keep your brain engaged so that the cuts are made in the right place. The left hand rod is now soldered up but still needs the final fettling and the corks adding.
It's not quite as exotic as the BR86, but you don't see many of them in 7mm, so I moved it to the front of the queue. I know they were poor performers but like the bigger Stanier 2-6-4s, were very handsome engines. I build the Chowbent Fowler version many years ago for my brother, so it will make a nice comparison. Roger Scanlon built a Stanier one from the Chowbent kit and Mickoo posted a very useful image of the inside of the cab rear, so they will be very helpful as well.
Cheers,
Peter
However, I then received a PM from Mike offering me a second set of spare etchings at a very reasonable price. After some deliberations as to what castings I would need to source and what I had in the spares box, I accepted his offer. He's not too far from Warren, so after dropping off the 11F, I nipped over to Barnsley and picked up the etchings.
The body etch.
There's some half etch detail as well as lots of rivets to punch out, as can be seen on the reverse side.
And the frames etc.
Mike also included a resin casting for the smokebox door, which should fettle up nicely.
He missed off the boiler, expansion link brackets and balance weights from the frets, but has provided printed templates to assist in making these, so no bother. He has also provided some scale drawings from his cad file with side, top, front and rear elevations.
I decided to get the coupling rods done first as these needed modifying to articulate them. Mike built his with his usual compensation system so I don't know how that would work with rigid coupling rods and never thought to ask him. Here are the parts for the right hand side. Top is the rear laminate, then the outer laminate and below that the overlays for the middle and rear bosses. The front boss has a recess for extra clearance and no boss overlay .
The first job was to separate the dummy joint overlay from the centre boss overlay.
Then the overlay was soldered to the centre boss.
I then separated the rod at the joint with the piercing saw and tidied up. The joint overlay was then soldered to the rear rod and the rear rod laminate separated behind the joint.
I should point out that before any cuts were made, the rods were used to set up the spacing on the chassis jig. Here are the front rod laminates in the jig lined up for soldering. After tack soldering at either end the rod was clamped in the vice for soldering all round.
The front and back laminates plus the boss overlay on the rear rod were lined as before, tack soldered on the jig then completed in the vice. Here are the rods after joining. The parts for the left hand coupling rod are below
The completed right hand rod with the "corks" added from 0.5mm brass rod.
The procedure for the left hand side is just a mirror image of the right, but you have to keep your brain engaged so that the cuts are made in the right place. The left hand rod is now soldered up but still needs the final fettling and the corks adding.
It's not quite as exotic as the BR86, but you don't see many of them in 7mm, so I moved it to the front of the queue. I know they were poor performers but like the bigger Stanier 2-6-4s, were very handsome engines. I build the Chowbent Fowler version many years ago for my brother, so it will make a nice comparison. Roger Scanlon built a Stanier one from the Chowbent kit and Mickoo posted a very useful image of the inside of the cab rear, so they will be very helpful as well.
Cheers,
Peter