AGH wheels ??

Tony West

Western Thunderer
Whilst at the Langley 0 gauge show today I was offered a part built LNW coal engine...for a price I could not refuse . When I got home and closely examined just what I had bought , I was struck by the quality of the wheels. It has been suggested that they may be AGH, so I'm hoping that the collective wisdom of this forum may enlighten me !!.
Cheers Tony.
 

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farnetti

Western Thunderer
It seems so because of the insulation between the axle and the wheel in the the first two photos. Others may differ.

Ken
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
The brass plate to form the inner surface of the H-spoke, the coupling rod retainer, Tufnol insulation in the wheel boss and the taper pin in the telescopic axle - all point to AGH work.
 

Mike W

Western Thunderer
For me your photos show up the nickel silver rods. Wheels as good as that reserve steel rods. I've nothing against nickel, but wheels and rods are so close together that they should be the same colour.

Is the rest of the engine as good as the wheels?

Mike
 

Tony West

Western Thunderer
Very many thanks folks for all your views and comments. As regards the rest of the engine...the tender is almost complete but needs the paint stripping and the loco is still in the early stages!...bottom line is that it is an old modellers world kit and the rods and wheels are the best parts of it thus far...
Cheers Tony.
 

Brian Wainwright

Active Member
LNWR Coal Engine, very nice. There's something about their simple, old-fashioned style that appeals to me. Perhaps because I'm simple and old-fashioned too.
 

Tony West

Western Thunderer
Something has cropped up with these posh wheels. This morning I decided to explore options as to where the motor / gearbox could go...and straight away I hit a problem..or rather a big tapered pin !. now I could cut away the bearing / spacer bush on the mount but this seems a bit like bodging to get around this. So just how does one mount ones gears on ones posh wheels ??....without a bit of pleby bodgeringDSCF5341a.jpg
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Tony

You can often put the taper pin through the grub screw hole and use that to lock the bearing to the axle, from your photo that looks a likely option

You might need to shorten the taper pin a bit.

Other than that a much narrower gearbox is required

Richard
 

Tony West

Western Thunderer
Thanks for that Steph, as you say an asymmetric set up looks logical...but because of the home brewed axleboxes and hornguides there isn't a lot of space , may yet have to make the chosen drive axle rigid and remove most of what shows of the bushes between the frames.
 

Locomodels

Western Thunderer
Tony,

There are two ways that I see of solving the problem, other than those already suggested, and both are similar to those methods.

You could saw, file or machine a slot in the gear boss so that it would slide over the taper pin. As previously said you would have to trim the pin, leaving it a little longer than the diameter of the boss.

The second method is simpler but more expensive. Get Brian Clapperton, of ABC, to make you a bespoke gearbox.
He has made one for me that cost no more than a standard box.
 

Cliff Williams

Western Thunderer
When I was building kit with Harris wheels and Crailcrest motors I simply drilled a very large hole through the boss at 90 degrees to the grub screw.
Simply fit the wheel over the gear, align, drift in the pin, then tighten the grub screw.
Easy!
 
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