4mm An unknown Hall

jonte

Western Thunderer
Oh, in spadefulls, Rob!

That's the sort of thing I'm trying to recreate but I'm not sure my Maskol method is up to the job. The problem with Maskol is that it doesn't produce a random enough sort of effect, especially on small areas like the smoke box on mine. Not only is it difficult to get those finer steaks with masking agents, but to try and create those 'islands' of paint left within a chip (in this scale anyway) is nigh on impossible.

The solution, is to resort to the hair spray technique which I picked up from our American cousins through my interest in N. American railroading. I tried it once before on a building I made with a degree of success. However, this time I'm going to do it properly, so I popped along to the model shop the other day and picked up a bottle of Tamiya matt black acrylic paint AND some acrylic thinning agent, instead of using cheap artists paint and water like last time, which I'm going to spray on in several thin coats over a hair spray undercoat. I've even prepared a test surface to practice on (acrylic primer with an enamel base - if I'd used acrylic as a base, I'd have to apply a matt varnish over the top before spraying).

I'll report in due course as to whether it was successful or not.

Btw, I'm also busy building a gantry signal from scratch from a picture I discovered on the web, including some angle cranks to make it work. It's really taxing trying to work out where to position the cranks to ensure it operates and it's more Hornby Dublo than fine scale, but I'm finding the experience rather enjoyable.

Why do I always get side tracked?

Thanks for sharing, Rob.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Dear fellow Westerners.

I have to admit that I've made little progress since my last post. In fact, apart from applying a grime wash to the chassis of both loco and tender, I've done nothing.

The reason? Well, it's that gantry signal I mentioned in my last post which has proved both satisfying and darned frustrating in equal measure. I've found it so thoroughly absorbing that quite frankly it's difficult to put down.

So in lieu of progress with the Hall, I hope you will permit me to submit my work to date on the signal to show what I've been up to.

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And some arms cut from brass sheet, decorated with spectacle plates formed from annealed thin brass wire, soldered to the arms. The pivots are from butchered GEM angle cranks. Incidentally, the inner spectacle plate should be more elongated but I'm afraid that was a challenge too far.

http://www.semgonline.com/proto/semaphore_05.htmlimage.jpg

I'm pleased to report that to date, it's cost nothing to build, all the components being sourced from my modelling room, and I'm banking on it staying that way.

As you can see, there are only two operating wires attached at present. The other two were removed as it was just too fiddly trying to get all four through the holes in the base; I'll leave that for the final fix.

Currently, I'm working on the ply wood chassis to carry the servos which will operate the arms. At the moment, I've purchased two of 6g each just for measuring purposes, although two more will be required to complete the job. I could have gone with manual operation which would have continued the frugal approach, however, I've been mightily impressed by the Megapoints system of control which will be purchased to provide the 'bounce' that is so de rigueur.

As you can see from the pictures, it has been designed to be removable; knowing my luck, something is bound to go wrong so I'm attempting to cater for every eventuality. It's probably only about half completed at the moment, the body, arms, platforms and ladders still needing to be fabricated from whatever else I can find lying round. Whichever route I take, the 'flesh' of the signal will also have to be removable in case I need to access the inner workings of the skeleton as it appears now. I think the solution will lie in the use of more micro bore tubing and wire. Still working on that. See what I mean?

Once I get to the painting/weathering stage, my focus will return to the hall and those test pieces I mentioned.

Oh, btw, this is what I'm basing the signal on (for some reason the link has attached further up the page); it's the fourth picture down the page.

Jonte
 

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jonte

Western Thunderer
Just to return to the subject of my thread for a moment, I dug out a photograph to show a previous attempt at using the hair spray technique.

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Needless to say, it's the peeling paintwork effect along the parapet.

As I recall, I used cheap artists acrylic over an enamel base painted on in approximately six layers, with half an hour drying time allowed between each. It was also just slapped on with a brush. A stiff brush dipped in water was used to remove the paint in parts, although more pressure was required than anticipated.

I'm hoping that by using specific model paint thinned with the appropriate thinner, this time and sprayed on with an airbrush to provide leaner coats, the paint will prove easier to remove thus making the process a little more enjoyable - apart from having to clean the air brush.

Finally, and I trust you will agree, I think this method provides a more suitable replication of the type of peeling paint found on a scorched smoke box than a similar effect provided by the use of Maskol as used in weathering the street sign in this photo
image.jpg
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Well,I never knew that, Rob, thank you.

It will act as belt 'n' braces if the hairspray refuses to play ball!

Regards,

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Only minor progress to report, fellow W.T.- ers.

One particular example in an album of photos kindly sent to me by Oldravendale, caught my eye, especially the tender, which I've attempted to emulate in the following photos.

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg



There is, what can only be described as a 'rash' of blue grey descending from the top sides of the tender as far as almost three quarters of the way down. However, being blotchier than a rash, there are still islands of green exposed, so it was back to dry -brushing.

For the purpose, I used Humbrol Metalcote 'Gunmetal' (27004) which appears almost black; ideal for showing through the top layer of grime as per the prototype. In practise, it appeared more sooty-grey; nothing like the prototype in the picture. I shall therefore return to my limited palette and mix up the Gunmetal with some dark grey and perhaps a dash of matt black and try again. As per usual, it will take time to reach the desired effect which will only be achieved by building up the paint in layers, so still some way to go yet.

You may also notice that I've applied the transfers to the tender sides. Now I see why Fox send several of the same. To give you an idea of the ordeal I went through, only two out of the original eight remain! I used water and Micro-Set - an agent designed for the purpose obtained from the States - however, I'm not sure whether it is more of a hindrance than a help; perhaps it's just me. Next time, I'll stick to water. Incidentally, the Micro-Set can also be used to remove transfers, or so it says on the bottle, and I was sorely tempted, for it was only after they'd dried that I realised they were positioned too low down! In my eagerness, I'd totally forgotten that I'd gone to the trouble of applying gloss varnish to the area beforehand as advised somewhere or other - you can see that it's glaringly obvious in the photos. Unfortunately, when awash with a heady mix of water and Micro-set - the tender not me - The gloss varnish became invisible, and so for some unearthly reason, I went and applied them as per the pictures. The varnish shows where they should have been! Actually, in one or two of the photos Oldravendale sent me, the insignia are not that far from where I've placed them: just a tad more above the lower line of rivets. As I mentioned, I could remove them and try again, but as you can see from this attempt, the arithmetic is against me. On the plus side, I don't think it matters too much, as the effect I'm aiming for would likely obliterate them anyway. My excuse and I'm sticking to it.

At least I'm back on track after my brief interlude.

Best wishes,

jonte
 
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