4mm Brassmasters Rebuilt Royal Scot, 46109

[Dave Holt]

The mechanical lubricators have been fitted and "piped" up. A few other items have also been added including, randomly, the top feed and dome.
With the lubricators, I've tried to route all the pipes more or less as the real thing, based on photos of the preserved Royal Scot loco. It's not all correct because the cast lubricators are both 12 feed (3 plugged) whereas the cylinder lubricator, on the LHS, should be a 16 feed type (one plugged) - so a few pipes short.
Apologies that a couple of these shots are slightly out of focus, but I think they illustrate the point.
First, two shots of the LH, cylinder lubricator.


And two of the RH mechanical lubricator.



There's still the atomiser and associated piping to do and some representation of the lines that link across from one side to the other, under the boiler.
Finally, a couple of shots with the boiler loosely plonked on, showing the top feed and dome.


Dave.

 

[Mike Garwood]

Stunning work Dave! Easily one of the best pieces of 4mm modeling I've ever seen. The detailing on the oilers is just superb!

Mike

 

[Dave Holt]

That's very kind of you, Mike. I really think the likes of Tom Mallard and the late John Hayes work(ed) to a rather higher standard than me. However, I do think I'll end up with something that looks a least a bit like a re-built Royal Scot.
Dave.

 

[Terry Howlett]

Stunning work indeed. I met you some years ago at a show Dave, and saw some of your work first hand. I was most impressed then, and coming back to the hobby lately, I can see things have only got even better. Very inspiring work.

Terry

 

[Dave Holt]

Welcome back to the hobby, Terry.
Glad to hear you're being inspired. I have to say, there's some fantastic modelling on here, especially in 7 mm, but we 4 mm modellers can do some quite nice stuff, too.
I see that Mickoo has added a new 3D printer to his workshop; me - I've just added a smokebox lamp iron to mine. It pinged out of the tweezers, I know not where. Humph. Had to make a replacement, now safely stored ready to fit.
Dave.

 

[Dave Holt]

Not too much real progress to report but a few minor items have been fixed - coupling hook, front steps and lamp irons - and a three bits - , front vac pipe, chimney and smokebox door - loosely placed for effect.




Dave.

 

[Dave Holt]

Progress has slowed recently, partly due to me being distracted by other things (for the first time since my computer updated itself to Windows 10 - a couple of years ago? - I have regained the use of my train simulation programme, so I've been busy driving trains through various parts of the UK) and partly because I'd got to a bit I didn't fancy doing. When in doubt, put it off in the faint hope it might do it itself - hasn't worked yet, though.
Anyway, I have knuckled down and added some detail round the cab area. The rear turn-ins, beading round the opening and hand-rail stanchions have been fitted, as have the revering stand, drivers seat, firemans seat and a vague representation of the coal watering pipe and hose. This latter is variously known as the pet pipe or slaking pipe/hose, but the Pipe & Rod drawing refers to it as the coal watering pipe & hose (that is the Black 5 P&R as the Scot drawing shows it but doesn't itemise it in the pipe list).
Here are a few rather poor photos illustrating this recent progress. The cast back-head is just loosely placed for the photos.
Outside view of the cab with the turn-ins and handrail stanchions in place.
Reverser stand and drivers seat.


Firemans seat/tool box and coal spray pipe/hose.


Dave.

 

[David Boorman]

Progress has slowed recently, partly due to me being distracted by other things (for the first time since my computer updated itself to Windows 10 - a couple of years ago? - I have regained the use of my train simulation programme, so I've been busy driving trains through various parts of the UK) and partly because I'd got to a bit I didn't fancy doing. When in doubt, put it off in the faint hope it might do it itself - hasn't worked yet, though.
Anyway, I have knuckled down and added some detail round the cab area. The rear turn-ins, beading round the opening and hand-rail stanchions have been fitted, as have the revering stand, drivers seat, firemans seat and a vague representation of the coal watering pipe and hose. This latter is variously known as the pet pipe or slaking pipe/hose, but the Pipe & Rod drawing refers to it as the coal watering pipe & hose (that is the Black 5 P&R as the Scot drawing shows it but doesn't itemise it in the pipe list).
Here are a few rather poor photos illustrating this recent progress. The cast back-head is just loosely placed for the photos.
Outside view of the cab with the turn-ins and handrail stanchions in place.
View attachment 140810 Reverser stand and drivers seat.
View attachment 140811

Firemans seat/tool box and coal spray pipe/hose.
View attachment 140812

Dave.

Dave,

I'm wondering what your thoughts will be about building this kit when you have finished this one and have full hindsight. Would you still build another one in the same sequence? Would you advise lesser modelling mortals to approach things differently? Would you encourage others to make the additions and improvements you have made?
My problem with the kit is that on the one hand I have a very positive emotional connection with the prototype but on the other hand, having partially built one in the past, there is part of me that says "never again". Now I have two completely unbuilt kits sitting in the storage cupboard - what a waste! I wonder how many other modellers have these little beauties just longing to be built! Maybe you could create a serialised Zoom workshop to guide mere mortals to produce wonderous 4mm Scot models that they could be proud of!
Doesn't lockdown foster fertile imagination!

 

[Mike Garwood]

Lovely stuff Dave!

 

[Terry Howlett]

That really does look rather splendid Dave.

Terry

 

[Dave Holt]

Thanks for the kind comments, gents.
Would I build another example? Well, on balance I would say "yes" but I won't be as I can't really justify one Scot, let alone two or more. Although I've done various modifications to the kit, most have been simply at my whim and, with a few exceptions where the kit parts are wrong, I'm sure a good looking model can be built by just following the instructions. Whether it would be better than a converted RTR is a matter of personal choice.
I wouldn't especially recommend anyone to make the additions and improvements(?) I've made - they are just my personal approach to my main hobby and many, the inside valve gear for instance, are probably a self indulgent waste of time but, ultimately, satisfying.
I certainly won't be contemplating any Zoom teach-in although I have submitted a presentation on aspects of kit detailing for the forthcoming virtual Scalefour North show.
Dave.

 

[Dave Holt]

The back head has had the separate detail added and is now fixed in position. The hinged cab doors are also on. Apart from the side mounted cinder guards, which I'll fit right at the end because they are vulnerable to handling damage, that's the cab structure completed. Obviously, there's the glazing to do after painting, too.
Cab doors and back head in place.


Side-on view with a Black 5 tender snuggled up. The Scot tender has a higher front footplate to more nearly match the height of the loco fall plate(s).

Dave.

 

[Mike Garwood]

It's a huge pity the Scots never ran over Hengoed High Level..that would be most welcome to brake the mould . Just gorgeous!

Mike

 

[Dave Holt]

Not very much visible (or even invisible) progress, lately, but I have been driving myself (even more) insane trying to replicate the six feed atomiser used on these locos. The kit includes a quite nice brass casting but I thought it didn't quite capture the real thing, having flanges for the pipe connections, whereas they should be screwed unions. Also, experience has shown just how difficult it is to drill small holes for the wire "pipes" in cast brass, especially where no locating dimples are provided.
This is what I was trying to represent (not my photo and I don't know the origin. I hope the originator won't mind it being used for this purpose.)


Here is my effort, made from bits of 0.5 mm brass tube, mainly, together with the cast version supplied.


My effort isn't as neat as I would like but, bearing in mind it is only about 5 mm long, once the various "pipes" have been fitted, I don't think it will look too bad.
Dave.

 

[Terry Howlett]

I think that will look wholly convincing on the finished loco Dave, quite superb!

Terry

 

[Dave Holt]

Thanks, Terry.
Dave.

 

[Deano747]

That's quite amazing work, Dave! I think I'd struggle with a 7mm version!!
As Terry said, it'll look good when complete.

Regards, Rob.

 

[Mike Garwood]

I would love to know how you cut such small pieces of tube AND keep the edges straight! Superb stuff Dave...

Mike

 

[AJC]

I would love to know how you cut such small pieces of tube AND keep the edges straight! Superb stuff Dave...

Mike

The only reliable method I’ve found for cutting such fine tube is to roll it under a scalpel. Bits still ping off, of course, but that’s less faff than a saw.

Adam

 

[Dave Holt]

All the tubes for the atomiser were cut using a piercing saw. I hold the tube stock in a small pin vice with the required length plus the thickness of the blade (0.2 mm for the ones I've got) protruding from the jaws, set using the back end on my vernier calipers. This ensures an accurate length and consistency of multiple similar parts to within 0.01 mm (in theory). The tube is cut using mainly push strokes so the teeth don't grab on to the wall thickness of the tube in the mid part of the cut. The saw blade is held against the nose of the pin vice jaws as a guide to cutting square. I try to stop just before completely severing the tube and usually insert the piece in another pin vice to avoid losing it on the bench or floor. The two vices are twisted to sever the tube sections and the ends filed smooth and square using the jaw nose as a guide.
I have cut this tube by rolling under a scalpel blade but it's hard to control the exact length and small parts do tend to ping. Very fine wire in the bore helps retain the cut off part. That also applies to the sawing method.
Dave.