Building an MMP RMB - a box of delights

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Best not to be too quick to always assume the worst!

With this kit, I don't tend that way. Most eventualities have been catered for, and it is appreciated. I assumed it may be dealt with on the interior kit, but I haven't broken that bit out yet.

I shall contemplate folding the top of the doors. It would be a simple operation. If i do it, I ought to handle it before I fix the hinges in place.

I am prevaricating about the roof at the moment. I've read the instructions, studied the parts, and I think I understand what I have to do. It's one of those tasks that I find needs a little cogitation before I just get on and do it!
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Good to know that door thickness is included:) Good luck with the origami on the door tops.

Cheers

Tom
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
You see, here's my point, kind of.

I was considering the idea of a chamfer, and now I actually take a look at the inside of the door, there's an etch mark for it. Just needs a tiny cut each end.

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In fact, on closer inspection still with me specs on, the ends only need a cursory pass with the sharp side of a scalpel blade.
 

djparkins

Western Thunderer
I was considering the idea of a chamfer, and now I actually take a look at the inside of the door, there's an etch mark for it. Just needs a tiny cut each end.

You do not need a cut! - the lines are actually etched from both sides and when you make the fold the cut lines will break away. We use this feature in loads of places in our kits.

I have already told you that about the chambfer being provided for in post 329 above!
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Cor, the pressure of building a kit with the designer looking over your shoulder :)

;)

It has been cooler here today, although my sleep quota was severely curtailed. I've made it to 4pm, but I'm now flagging properly.

The door furniture is now complete.

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That wonky hinge has been dealt with since the photograph. The next phase is to add the corrosion strips. Now, Tom provides a lovely etch made for Mk2s. I acquired a fret, hoping I might be able to use them on this model. Sadly, it seems the Mk1 body side is a mite taller than the Mk2. I shall be using fine Evergreen styrene strip instead, cut to fit around the handles and hinges as per the prototypes I've seen recently.

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I've begun to fit the window frames. The kitchen side is done, and a start has been made on the bar side. Being a fan of soldering, I was hoping to use that technique to affix the nickel silver etches. It was fairly obvious, though, with lots of other details already in situ, I'd be tempting fate using heat. Superglue it is, then.

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I particularly like the toilet window detail. The vent is two parts, the outer grille being folded from the flat. Very tidy it looks, too. The method of achieving the hammered glass is also neat, as you will see when I get to it - always assuming Richard doesn't want me to use the opaque white variant common on later builds.

The main window ventilators will be fitted at a later stage of construction. I have a feeling the body is perilously close to getting a coat or three of paint applied. Perhaps I should tackle that roof, too, so it can be painted as well.
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Sorry to hear the strips don't fit. It's shaping up nicely now you've got the door gubbins on. May I make a recommendation for the door grab handles? Because they're etched they're flat and it sticks out a lot. An easy way to get round this and build up the 3D effect is the mix a spot of filler with some thinners. Apply to the handle and it's level itself out with out spilling over the edge. After it's dry you'll have the curved and true 3D shape of the handles.

Cheers

Tom
 

Bob Reid

Western Thunderer
Brings back memories of stripping them out for refitting Jeff - Fragrant wasn't a word that I heard used much and certainly top of my least popular jobs....

Hopefully Heather you'll be fitting the wee anti-perv plates around the basin h/c water pipes ;)
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Sorry to hear the strips don't fit. It's shaping up nicely now you've got the door gubbins on. May I make a recommendation for the door grab handles?

Cheers Tom! It's not your fault the strips don't fit. They are, after all, designed for a different type of coach from a different kit maker. Rest assured, if Mr Carr has his way, the fret will be consumed and then some in the coming months!

As to the handles, I like the idea. Best Beloved has recounted tales of the apprentices at Wolverton being tasked with filing and buffing the handle castings. I like the idea that every handle is subtly unique and not identikit mass production. Having said that, I won't be bulking the handles out. I agree they may look a little flat, but in brass I can reproduce the wear pattern from handling by just running a glass fibre brush over them. With filler on them, they'd need painting, and it never quite looks the same to me.

Mind you, compared to the JLTRT castings, at least these handles are pretty much the same in size and shape!

Today has been about corrosion strips. The material chosen is Evergreen styrene strip Item No 102, 0.25 x 1.0mm. This is a pretty close match to the width of the real thing, although perhaps a micron or three too thick.

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Study of the real thing shows the strips are cut to fit around handles and hinges. To replicate this I used individual lengths, starting with the grab handle area one being cut to fit around the handle fixings. The remaining strips butted up to the handle. Some coaches had the handles refitted onto the strips, but most of the ones I've seen of late appear to have handles left in place and the strip fitted around them.

The hinges were a little more complex. In the photos supplied by Mr Parkins in the kit, there is a close up which shows how the strip was shaped to fit neatly around the butterfly hinge baseplate. Each short section of strip had a tiny triangle cut from the end to suit. It's very fiddly, but very effective.

To fix in place, a smear of cyano was applied to about half the strip length. Carefully placing the end, holding it with a finger nail, the strip was then guided down to align with the door opening. The unglued end was then carefully lifted and more cyano smeared in before pressing home. I left the strips at top and bottom of the sides over long, partly for ease of handling, but also so I could trim hem back after the glue had set.

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I guess it's the roof next. If all goes well, primer will get blown over the body shell soon.

Oh, by the way, the kit includes some lovely detailing for train name boards and coach number frames. Sadly, it seems by the early 1980s the brackets and so on had been removed, so I won't be fitting them. The tiny slots will be filled before painting begins.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Thanks chaps! It is beginning to take on the look of a Mk1 nicely.

A question, aimed principally at Bob-65B: do we know how long the ETH cable is? I think I guesstimated something around the 4ft region on a Mk2 build, but it would be nice to have the correct dimension.

I keep thinking I can see the light at the end of the tunnel with this build, but then I remember I have the interior kit to do. Lots of lovely seating bays, lots of repetitive construction. Oh, boy!
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Those steps are a little way from the door - have you put the bogies at the wrong ends? Looks very nice, just the same!

Good point, but no. The error is more subtle. The steps were carefully researched from the real thing, so I hope they're correct!

As I can't spend the day in the paintshop, as Best Beloved is out for the day. That means I have to be postie watcher, as we're expecting a package. It's the roof today, then.
 

Simon

Flying Squad
This is a very good build of a well thought out and well designed kit.

However, and I may make myself a bit unpopular here, given the angst expressed over the plastic G1 coach on another thread I am a bit unimpressed by the shape and size of the door handles. Leaving aside thickening them up as already discussed, what is clearly sub optimal is their shape, viz they are insufficiently waisted in the middle and also, I think, too short. Look at your excellent picture, the end of the handle runs across the door shut line, and I don't think we are looking at a parallax error here.

I also think the door stops are over stated and a bit lumpen, although short of huge amounts of work or a decent casting instead I can't see how you could have done any better.

I only make these comments because the kit appears to otherwise be a very accurate model and you are going the "extra mile" on lots of details, especially in the underframe area.

Which will be very hard to see on the finished model - unlike the details on the body side.....

Sorry!!

Simon
 
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