Building an MMP RMB - a box of delights

The Penguin Of Doom

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather.

I've just finished reading the full thread on this mammoth build. Very inspirational.

You're on the home straight now and I'm looking forward to seeing the paint go on. ☺

Sean.
 

rusty

Active Member
Heather

Following this with interest. I have three of the MMP Mk 1 kits to build next 'winter' - am I being too optimistic again!
Julian
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Thanks Julian. The kit is a technical one, and needs to approached with that in mind. Don't expect it to be a quick build. These are kits designed to be savoured while under construction, and repay careful work. Unlike the way I did it! With the interior kits, and the bogies, each kit will have north of 2000 parts. You simply can't build that kind of kit quickly.

(This build has been protracted for obvious reasons, and the coach has spent most of the past two years lurking at the back of my bench. I purposely avoided putting it in a box and letting it become a shelf queen. I let it nag and chide me until I had worked out how to fix my c0ck-ups!)

Today I spent my time slowly going over the bodywork, repairing damage, refitting bits dislodged, and letting the final roof details stew away in my brain cell before I tackled them.

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I had used Evergreen styrene strip for the corrosion strips. Handling and hot repairs had damaged some of the strips, so my first job was sort that out. While I was doing it I was checking and cleaning up odd spots of solder and glue.

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I then cleaned up, applied low-melt solder into, and tidied up the corner joints. The bottom steps have always been very vulnerable, so I took them off. They'll be refitted after painting, I think.

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Not seeing any particular reason not to, I fitted the lighting connectors. I've spent a good deal of time trying to get this corner of the roof to sit down nicely. It doesn't really want to, and you'll note the end of the coach has taken on a slight deformation. A little brute force, applied gently if that's even possible, has made the situation better. I think we'll only know if the slight gap can be solved once the roof has been finally attached.

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As we all know, catering vehicles had ground level fillers for the kitchen area water supply. To differentiate them from the lavatory fillers, the ends of the pipes-cum-handrails were encased in a special block which prevented the wrong sort of hose being attached. These blocks had come adrift during the saga, so they've been reattached.

Now, the roof. I'd been working out how to fit the pipework so it could be detached and kept safely until final assembly. The idea had been to temporarily attach the fine brackets to the roof, form up the pipework along the roof and down the ends and fix it to the brackets by soldering, and then remove it all for later on.

I didn't think this plan would work. The pipes are held by L-shaped wire brackets halfway up the ends. You can see the hole in the end shots above. Some complex bends are needed, and feeding that lot through the brackets would not be trivial.

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This is the easy end, for the lavatory fillers. What I decided to do was cheat by adding extra brackets at a point where I could conveniently split the wire. Mr P kindly adds spares on the fret. It's not prototypical, but it'll have to do. This way I have permanently fitted the main roof wire pipes, and can fit the bits up from the ends more easily later.

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Here's the run for the catering fillers. While we are up on the roof, I've run some PVA into the rain strip slots. Although they still look open, they are now filled and should look right once painted. The plan now is to waft some primer over the roof and think about whether to add the weld lines across or not.

In fact, while I'm at it, I may as well get primer on the rest of the body.

I know. That shocked me as well.
 

markjj

Western Thunderer
Heather

Following this with interest. I have three of the MMP Mk 1 kits to build next 'winter' - am I being too optimistic again!
Julian

Nothing optimistic about it Julian just dive in and enjoy building them you won't regret it. Try batch building things like the bogies it makes life much easier the same with the main coaches just do the same thing on each one it saves looking for the bits 3 times..

Mark J
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Progress has slowed slightly. I'm waiting for the weather to warm up a bit so I can get primer and basic coats of paint on the bodywork and roof. It's a bit too autumnal in the paint shop, and I can't be bothered getting the heating organised right now. I really ought to, because there are several builds that have paintwork jobs to do.

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Having competed almost all the bodywork repairs and mods, it was time to start the masking process. Using an old ring binder pocket cut into strips the window and door apertures are effectively masked. I will need to block in the open roof space, and protect the gangway openings and fittings. I understand the flexible material used for the gangways is impervious to paint, but I shall mask it out anyway - you can guarantee I'll be able to get paint to stick to it, even if it fails to stick everywhere else!

I've remember I need to make up the handrail/pipe brackets for the coach ends. These need to be bent bits of wire fitted into the relevant holes, to which the handrail is welded (in the case of the real thing). I did the same thing on a pair of JLTRT Mk1s a couple of years ago, and it was very effective. I suppose the roof will have to go back on temporarily as the end pipework needs to be made up to act as jigging to make the brackets.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Final bits. The end filler/handrails.

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These are designed so they can be clipped in after the roof is finally fitted, and secured with a dab of cyano.

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This shows the kitchen water supply filler end pipes in position. The right hand one needs trimming at the bottom as it ought not poke out from the cover box.

Next stop, warmer weather and primer everywhere! Wow! To think this day would ever come!
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
If I may have your attention, please!

The RMB body and roof is currently in the primer stages in the paint shop. I expect some minor remedial work, but with luck a first coat of Rail Blue will go on the body later today.

:eek: :thumbs: :drool:
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Deeds, not words.

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There were some dicky bits on the roof, hence the brass showing through, and one or two grollies on the body which have been dealt with.

Having been through the paint box, I find I may be short of Rail Grey. Last time I tried to buy a tinlet from Precision, they were all out of stock. While I chase up more, preferably gloss, I shall get the blue coats on and let them dry nice and hard.
 
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Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I can't wait to see it finished.

Nor me!

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Rail Blue, first coats. I shall leave it alone under cover for a day and see how it looks tomorrow. I've sprayed the roof gutters, so they can be masked off and the Rail Executive Grey can be squirted on the rest tomorrow as well.

If things work out, I shall be able to mask the sides and get the grey window bar sprayed tomorrow, too.

Exciting!
 

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Wow Heather, you're working at quite a rate at the moment. RMB, Western and an aeroplane too!!!

Do you mask over sprayed paints after only a day of drying?

Cheers
Lee
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I try not to be hasty with masking. I use enamels, and I've learned the hard way that even after they appear to be dry they're not really. One of the Collett coach sides has had to be resprayed because I was a bit too hasty, hadn't prepped the surfaces properly, and paint came off with the tape.

I had a quick test today, masking the gutter for painting the roof. The paint survived the masking tape, so the body paint is probably safe to be masked now. I shall leave it for another little while before I risk it, though.
 

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
I've always left my enamel sprayed projects a minimum of 48hrs drying. I have little experience with the masking so I find it difficult to judge when it's right and when it's wrong, hence my timescale.

It's a nuisance (and boring) waiting for the paint to dry though :)
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
It's a nuisance (and boring) waiting for the paint to dry though :)

That's why I've got so many builds on the boil. There's always something to be getting on with, and being a professional builder that means I've got some sort of income most of the time. :thumbs:
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Or use cellulose, it dries in minutes on a warm day.

Richard
Ah but you still need to give it two hours before masking onto it, although rubbing down is OK after about 20 mins
Don't know what I would do without cellulose, my waiting list would probably be about 3years:eek:
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I'm afraid I'm very much stuck in my ways, so enamels is where I am. Occasional forays into the world of acrylics, but celly is a step too far.
 
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