Building Points

[Allen M]

Hello all
In the layout section, Unnamed Freight only layout there is comment on building points.
The following is my method. These ar 32mm gauge 0FS. The rail is code 100 FB to represent 56lb rail on a light railway. However I have used a similar approch on 0CS, 00 and N.

First photo a drawing of the formation and the sleepers added.



Next put in the 2 outer running rails, from them fit the 'V' frog, cut the tips of the rail to a long taper and using track gauges slide until they touch. (there should have been a photo at this stage but it won't load).
Next add the running rails up to the frog which are also the wing rails. Again use track gauges for the gap between the wing rails and frog as well as gauge for the running rails.

The add the check rails again using a gauge.




Finally file up the blades and fit. Note these are pivoted, see the short sleeper and the bit of wire forming the 'hinge'. Should have mentioned at the beginning, the running rails have the head and base filed away to accept the blades.

The wiring is also shown and insulating gaps can be seen in the sleepers.



The final photo is of points in place. The one on the incoming track behind the shed is a 3 way built in a similar way.

Operation is by push/pull wires with the polarity changed by a switch as marked on the photo.



If any more information is wanted please ask and I will do my best to help.

Anyone who has visited the GOG forum may have seen this info before.

Regards
Allen Morgan

 

[Phil O]

Hi Allen,

When I build turnouts using copper clad, I gap and test them before use, this saves time, as you don't have to chase spurious shorts, when a wisp of copper is bridging the gap.

 

[Allen M]

Hi Phil
I totally agree and it can still go wrong. When I built the 3 way behind the shed it worked perfectly on the bench. Lashing up the C/O switches first a test meter then a loco ran through every route. After laying and wiring I got a short on one route. It was a nearly microscopic copper whisker.
The only way to find it is be organised by starting at the blade end and move along every line of brakes in order until it disappears.
Regards
Allen

 

[JimG]

I've used an RSU to get rid of shorts caused by small whiskers somewhere - maximum amps and you might even see the copper melt in a flash.

Jim.

 

[michael080]

Handy tool, such an RSU, isn't it?

Michael

 

[Neil]

I may have mentioned this here before but there's an easier order to build points. Here's a drawing I did some time ago, the numbers indicate the order.


Straight rail (1) first then the vee (2). Next up is the curved wing rail (3), you can use a short ruler to align this with the curved rail of the vee. Straight wing rail (4) next which can be gauged off the straight rail and the curved wing rail gets in the way of aligning by ruler. The curved switch rail (5) next which can be easily lined up with the curved wing rail. With this in place the curved rail (6) can be laid in with three point gauges and then it's the turn of the straight switch rail (7) gauged from the straight rail (1). Finally the check rails (8). No other order gives as good access for alignment or offers jst a single point of alignment for each stage of the process.

 

[simond]

2, 3 & 4 built as a unit
Then 1 & 8s
Then 6 & 8c
Then 5 & 7

hang on a minute and someone else will have another approach...

 

[Phil O]

Each to their own, I build the common crossing up first using etch waste to hold the bits together, if I'm using copper clad I remove the fret afterwards, if I'm building chaired turnouts, I put the etch waste where the special chairs go, once I'm happy with the crossing I cut any protruding bits off and file it back to the foot of the rail, once fitted the cosmetic half chairs are fitted.

 

[Rn@B.]

My preferred approach is:

1. V
2. Stock rails
3. Switch rails
4. Wing rails
5. Closure rails
6. Check rails

For any copper timbers: Gap and check the timbers first. That way you avoid the issue of finding the offending timber afterwards; it’s impossible to isolate the problem.

 

[Allen M]

My order from the above drawing would be 1, 6, 2, 3, 4, 8, 8, 7, 5. I don't normally gap the copper first except for the tie bar(s) on the blades. In O gauge I pivot the blades on any points below about 5ft radius.
There are as many ways to build points as cook potatoes. As long at the train runs through totally reliable the use the order/method that suits you.