Burnishing Tool

[parky]

As I do more soldering up of kits I am also trying to reduce the amount of solder used. This will save cleaning stray solder from the vehicle, but I have been cursed like us all with the fibres in the fingers from doing so

This got me thinking what could I use instead of the fibres breaking off everywhere. So it really needs something non-metallic that will be hard enough to do the job. Time to experiment

I had to go out on my owntoday, Birthday shopping for my Wife so was able to take a quick visit to Dunhelm
There I picked up a small ceramic paring knife for a few quid in the sale. When I got home I had a go with the knife to dress some unwanted solder from my current Brake van kit. It is a bit unwieldy, but it seems to do the job and there is no fall out. So, so far so good

I know you all want a go. So go on steal into the kitchen and raid the knife draw if you already own a ceramic knife and give it a go and let us know your thoughts

 

[oldravendale]

I absolutely refuse to use fibreglass pencils or polishing sticks. Too many years ago to remember I used one and embedded a fibre in my thumb that's there to this day.

Firstly you are right in using the minimum of solder - plenty of flux but minimum solder. In that regard I've found solder cream to be a boon. However, where I use stick or wire solder and get it where it's not wanted I use a succession of scrapers to start with. Apart from anything else they'll get in to the corners you can't reach with a fibreglass pencil. I guess your new friendly ceramic knife is achieving the same thing. There are some very fine ones available, known as gravers in the jewellery trade and originally (so Steph tells me) for engraving by hand.. They have well formed and sharpened edges. The only problem with them, in my experience, is that unless handled very carefully they can have a tendency to create quite deep scratches on brass or nickel silver. On the positive side you can get in to corners and create a really sharp edge. In fact, once the majority of the solder is removed a scalpel can be your friend.

Anyway, once the solder is pared away the quick application of some wet and dry to polish off the last bit will give a really good surface.

It's probably worth a little practice beforehand to realise the amount of pressure you can use, but I, personally, would not go back to fibreglass pencils if you paid me.

Brian

 

[parky]

Thanks for the enlightenment from such a learned source. I will look out those gravers

I am just looking for some decent supplies of solder cream as this and a small blow torch seem to be the way to go

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I rarely use the fibreglass pencil now, I also have a few war wounds including one strangely in my toe!
I have turned to differing grades of wet or dry sanding paper. The course grade really eats away any stray solder, but will also eat the brass if not careful!
Like others, I use the scalpel with great success, it just takes practice.
The way forward is to use just enough solder for the job. I haven't used liquid flux for some time, and find LaCo flux perfect. A quick wash and dry after each session saves any staining of the brass (or nickle silver)
I soldered several sections of brass sheet together at differing angles and deliberately applied a tad too much solder, then practiced at cleaning it up.
I can't get on with solder cream myself, perhaps I should persevere.

 

[Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen]

I use a grinding wheel to shape old needle files into scrapers and then sharpen the cutting edge on a carborundum stone,
Tim

 

[oldravendale]

Perfectly correct about using redundant files, tool steel etc. Also about gravers, and it's certainly down to preference and experience as regards the end profile. Flat is good, though.

My main concern, however, was in trying to help in identifying something other than a fibreglass brush to deal with errant solder. The point we've all made, I think, is that the fibreglass brush is not the only option. (edit)

My most commonly used scraper is one from a Model Engineers Exhibition at least 20 years ago which is, I suspect just tool steel with a sharpened edge of about 1/2" length or so and an angle of about 60 degrees to the handle. It cost less than £1 and has been in regular use ever since.

Brian

 

[JimG]

I am just looking for some decent supplies of solder cream as this and a small blow torch seem to be the way to go

I got some solder cream off Ebay recently and it works very well. I mentioned it in another thread but I can't find it now. Aren't forums wonderful. But I do have pictures of the product to hand.



It cost a few pounds and there are several suppliers on Ebay - some from UK sources at a bit higher price than those from the Far East, but the UK ones can supply quicker. I've been using it now for a month or two and it works very well and doesn't appear to cause any unwanted after effects. My sample is a slightly stiff paste and I apply it with a cocktail stick. I keep it in the fridge to help its shelf life. I think it's a good buy since this type of paste tends to go off before you get a chance to finish it, so smaller quantities for a lot less money make it a better buy than the more expensive products from UK retailers.

Jim.

 

[JimG]

Jewelry supplies tend to be quite expensive compared to engineers supplies so it might be better to have a look for some tool steel from engineers supplies. A quick check on ebay tells me you can get 200mm of 8X8 tool steel for about £2.50 inc P+P. You can of course get smaller sizes.

Old, worn files also make a good source of suitable steel.

Jim.